The galvanized bucket went first. Although I don't think it's offended. It now stands in a prominent place in the house. In the near future I will make him a girlfriend.

Materials for decoupage of a galvanized bucket:

sandpaper
degreaser
acrylic primer
printing on rice paper (napkins, decoupage cards)
PVA glue (decoupage glue)
acrylic paints
acrylic lacquer
brushes
foam sponge for tamponing (dishwashing sponge)

DIY decoupage technique

Sand the outside of the bucket with coarse sandpaper, I used No. 40. This will improve the adhesion of the surface of the bucket to the ground. Thoroughly degrease the surface. Prime the surface of the bucket with a sponge or brush.

We print 2 pictures on rice paper on a color inkjet printer using pigment ink. You can use ready-made napkins or decoupage cards.

I buy rice paper at a hobby store, it's called calligraphy rice paper and it comes in a roll. I cut the paper into A4 sheets and iron it with an iron without steam. After this, the sheets are ready for printing. I insert one sheet at a time into the printer, my sheet does not jam if the printer has 10-15 sheets of regular writing paper. I insert a sheet of rice paper on top of the regular sheets, carefully align it and you are ready to print.

You can also print on plain writing paper, but then you will need to peel it off with tape.

We carefully tear off the necessary fragments of the picture and glue them using decoupage glue or PVA glue diluted with water.

After the glue has dried, sand the edges of the picture with fine sandpaper. We select the desired paint color, tint the background between the images, highlight the details with a contrasting color, and, if necessary, complete the missing fragments.

We cover the bucket with acrylic varnish in three layers, sanding each layer after drying with fine sandpaper.

The bucket is ready for use. You can store threads in it, or you can plant ficus. We pour expanded clay onto the bottom of the bucket for drainage, plant ficus, and water it. Sprinkle the ground with expanded clay on top, so the ground stays moist longer. with a detailed description.

The origins of decoupage go back to the Middle Ages. It was first mentioned as an art form at the end of the 15th century in Germany, where carved pictures began to be used to decorate furniture.

The master class was conducted by Maria Svetailo, Sumy.

Materials:
galvanized 5 liter bucket;
napkins for decoupage;
acrylic paints;
brushes;
masking tape;
PVA glue;
240 grit sandpaper;
foam sponge;
white table napkins;
old toothbrush;
acrylic varnish.

How to decoupage a bucket.

We prepare the bucket for work - we seal the edges with masking tape so that they do not stain and in the future the bucket can be used for its intended purpose. Then we go over the entire surface with sandpaper so that the paint adheres better to the surface and degrease it with alcohol. Prime the bucket with white acrylic paint.

1

Using a foam sponge, make point movements and paint the surface with white paint in several layers to even out the background.

2

We tear out the motif from the napkin as close to the edge as possible. Between the long elements we break through the napkin to the design. Separate the top layer of the napkin.

3

We dilute PVA glue with water 1:1 and coat it with glue on top of the napkin, smoothing out the folds with a brush or pulling the napkin by the edges.

4

Use a white table napkin to carefully blot off excess glue so as not to pull the motif.

5

Using a foam sponge, we paint the background with ivory paint in several layers. Using a sponge, carefully go to the edges of the napkin so that the background merges with the background on the motif.

6

Dilute the colors of terracotta and brown shades and use a dry, hard brush to make shadows. If the shadows turn out to be very dark and sharp, then they can be smoothed out with the color of the main background.

7

Using an old toothbrush, we spray droplets of different colors: bronze, light gold, burnt umber, light ocher, white.

8

We cover the bucket with acrylic varnish in several layers, drying well after each layer. After the 2nd coat, lightly sand it to remove any unevenness and then coat again.

Decoupage on a metal surface

Lesson 9. Decoupage of metal surfaces

Features of decoupage of metal surfaces

General rules for decoupage for metal

If there is rust, be sure to treat it with a rust converter. Moreover, we process until all the rust is gone; repeated processing may be necessary. If this is not done, then the corrosion will certainly go further and soon the decor may fall off.
Sanding of all metal surfaces is mandatory. The only exceptions are highly polished surfaces, such as stainless steel.
Be sure to degrease. In this case, we not only degrease, but also remove the remaining rust converter.
We prime the decoupage for metal with a special primer - anti-rust enamel. Three times, with sanding in between. Primer - enamel is better to take white, so as not to prime it again later.
Prints can be glued to urethane varnish; it holds well, but only on more or less flat surfaces, since urethane varnish does not make the paper plastic, as acrylic varnish does, and if your surface is too curved, then the motif may not stick.
If the decor needs to be made strong, you can completely abandon the use of water products.
When painting and setting the background, you can use the same primer - rust enamel mixed with acrylic paints or gouache to the desired color.
Before applying the finish in decoupage for metal, the surface must be sanded well, it should be as smooth as possible. Alkyd-urethane varnishes are all self-leveling and self-leveling, so if the surface is first well sanded and then a sufficient amount (but not too much) of the finishing varnish is applied, then there will be no streaks or drips.
Non-aqueous products always yellow to some extent, so if your product is not vintage, it is better not to apply more than a couple of layers of finish.
It is necessary to remember that all non-aqueous products have an odor, often unpleasant, and use them in a well-ventilated area or outdoors.
If the metal is exposed to heat, for example, samovars, lanterns, kerosene lamps, then heat-resistant paints and varnishes must be used.

Now let's go over all the metal surfaces for metal decoupage one by one.

Decoupage galvanized iron and aluminum cookware

The most striking example of a galvanized blank for metal decoupage is everyone’s favorite metal watering can from Ikea, which only the lazy didn’t decoupage. So, in order:
Be sure to skin it well.
Be sure to degrease with acetone
We prime the primer with rust enamel three times with intermediate sanding with a zero polish.
Glue the print
Background, underpainting
Skinning
Finish coating

Decoupage painted metal

Thermoses, trays, tea and cookie boxes, flowerpots, mailboxes, spice jars and many other painted metal objects are used in metal decoupage. Wherein:

Be sure to wash off the old paint using a special remover for old paintwork surfaces (sold in hardware stores). You should not neglect this point, since the apparent speed of decoupage with the paint not removed will result in the fact that you will still have to remove this paint, but along with the decor. It will be a shame, so it’s better to wash it off right away.
Sand the surface well.
Degrease with acetone.
Prime the primer with rust enamel.
Sand well.
Paste on the print.
Sanding.
Finish coating.

Stainless steel decoupage

Stainless steel items - teapots, pots, flasks, thermoses are also often objects of metal decoupage; flasks are especially popular - they are a good gift and can be made quite quickly.

If the stainless surface is well processed, it does not need to be sanded, just degrease it well.
You can also skip priming, and if you print on thin paper, you get a very nice silvery sheen.
Background and underdrawing.
Varnish and sand well.
Finish surface.

Decoupage cast iron

Decoupage of cast iron and old cast iron irons has been very fashionable lately; some people make watches out of old cast iron frying pans.

The most important. The cast iron surface is very uneven, so we sand it very well with coarse sandpaper. If this is not done, then later in the process of work all the irregularities will definitely appear, and they will still have to be removed.
Degrease.
We prime.
We sand the soil.
We glue the print.
Background, underpainting.
Finish coating.

Decoupage of enamel dishes

Cans, mugs, coffee pots, saucepans and many other enamel dishes are the subject of do-it-yourself metal decoupage.

Unlike painted surfaces, we do not wash off the enamel, but sand it very well, giving the surface the necessary roughness for better adhesion to the ground.
Degrease with acetone.
We prime in three layers with sanding. If the enameled object is light, then you don’t need to prime it. And if the object is still light, but there is a drawing, then you will have to prime the entire surface, because if you prime only the drawing, it will be very visible and will differ in color.
Glue the print.
Background, underpainting.
We finish the entire surface of the product, even if the print is smaller in size.

Well, my dears, we have considered the topic of metal decoupage for beginners. Write your questions in the comments, I will definitely try to answer.
Always yours, Miroslava.

MK No. 1__________________________________________

MK No. 2_____________________________________________

Master class on decoupage on a metal surface "Lacy shimmers of summer"

Today we will prepare for spring and decorate two elegant metal flowerpots that will become an amazing decoration for our home.

We will work using decoupage technique.

Materials:

1. metal blanks
2. alcohol
3. acrylic primer
4. sandpaper
5. sponge
6. synthetic brush
7. acrylic paints
8. one-step craquelure
9. napkins
10. synthetic varnish

Step 1

Degrease the surface of the pots with alcohol.

We moisten a piece of sponge with acrylic primer, remove the excess so that the sponge is semi-dry, and apply the primer to the surface of the flowerpot with light “smacking” movements. Do not press hard, movements should be soft and fast; if bubbles form, walk over this area with a dry sponge.

When the entire pot is covered with soil, leave it to dry.

We do the same with the second pot.

Step 2

We decide what color the cracks on our flowerpots will be. I chose a lilac color scheme for one, and pink for the second.

You can take several shades of the range we need - this will make our cracks more interesting.

With such light “smacking” movements we apply the paint of the desired shade; here you don’t have to try to ensure that the paint transitions are smooth and unnoticeable, because... We will then cover this colored background with white paint, through which our cracks will appear.

After the paint is applied, let it dry thoroughly. Then we use fine sandpaper to go over the entire surface with paint, removing any unevenness from the sponge. Do not rub too hard so as not to rip off the paint. The goal is to level the surface.

Step 3

Apply craquelure.

I do this with my finger, carefully applying craquelure to the entire painted surface of the flowerpot. We make sure there are no leaks.

Leave to dry for about 30-40 minutes.

Step 4

When the craquelure is completely dry, use a sponge to apply white paint.

You need to try to do this quickly and, if possible, avoid going through the same place twice. Movements should be light, fast and precise.

Cracks should appear before your eyes. We are waiting for the paint to dry.

Step 5

We choose the motif that we would like to see on the flowerpot. Carefully tear out the elements we need from the napkin.

Separate the two bottom layers. We apply the top layer with the picture to the place we need.

Glue the motif using a flat synthetic brush and PVA glue. Carefully coat the motif from the center to the edges, trying to smooth out any wrinkles that have formed. We work carefully so as not to tear the napkin.

Leave to dry.

Step 6

Varnish the pots.

For this we need synthetic varnish.

Using a flat brush, carefully apply the varnish to the surface of the flowerpot.

We wait for the varnish to dry and apply another layer. We varnish until the result is satisfactory.

Here's what I got:

Inspiration and spring mood!

MK 3__________________________________________

What you need to prepare:

• napkins;
• acrylic paints: white and multi-colored (you can get by with white acrylic paint and artistic gouache);
• acrylic primer for metal;
• acrylic varnish;
• sandpaper (fine);
• brushes (wide synthetic + thin for painting);
• palette for mixing paints (or disposable plastic plate);
• a glass of water for rinsing brushes;
• narrow masking tape;
• new sponge.

Decor step by step

Step 1: prepare the metal surface for subsequent decorative work. To do this, thoroughly wash and treat the surface with a degreasing agent using a cotton pad or cloth.

Step 2: The master class is designed for beginners, so proceed to the next steps with confidence! We begin to prime the surface; this must be done carefully using a brush. White acrylic primer eliminates the need to paint the object with several layers of paint. The primer also ensures adhesion of all subsequent layers to the metal base. Therefore, this stage is very important for the quality of the finished product.. Apply paint to the dry primed surface. You can get by with white, but this is not so interesting - cream color is more noble and suitable for any interior. The class of decorative art is determined by the number of shades of the color scheme.

To obtain warm shades, mix white paint and a few drops of burnt umber on the palette, add a little yellow. Add paint or gouache in very small portions, controlling the process to get the desired color. Apply the finished color to the watering can using a sponge using tamponing movements. Dry.

Step 3: Using nail scissors, cut out a fragment of the napkin and carefully remove the lower white layers. They are not used during work. If you forget to remove it, the pattern glued from several layers will wrinkle. To ensure that the napkin lies flat, without creases, coat the place where it will be fixed with PVA glue or acrylic varnish. Carefully, starting from the top edge, apply the napkin. Flatten with a soft cloth and coat the top with glue (varnish). The drawing can be from different sides, act in such a way as to glue everything, but not damage the previous works. Dry, cover everything done with acrylic varnish and dry again. The high class of the product is characterized by impeccable execution.

In order for the napkin to lie flat, without creases, coat the place where it will be fixed with PVA glue or acrylic varnish!

Step 4: This could be the end of it, but the item clearly lacks character, so some additional work is required. To get a straight line when painting part of an object in a different color, use masking tape. Stick it in the place where the separation will be, make sure that the tape fits tightly, otherwise the paint will spread and you won’t get a clear line. Each decoupage master has his own techniques for drawing a straight line - masking tape is the most popular.

Step 5: Using a wide flat brush, draw an imitation of ribbon stitches, but first make markings with a simple pencil. To do this, mix acrylic paints in a plate so that one edge of the brush captures a light tone and the other a dark tone of paint. Dry the paint and apply varnish on top, dry. Now you need to add depth to the drawing - shade the leaves. It is worth shading with a gray tint with the addition of barely noticeable greenery. Do this stage of the artwork with a thin brush.

To ensure the paint adheres well, dilute it a little with water (it is important that it does not spread). Place the stroke along the contour, or slightly grabbing the edge of the drawing, do not leave white spots. So that the rest of the field does not seem empty, put dots with a thin brush - this will be an imitation of small peas. Decoupage is finished.

Step 6: Cover the entire work with varnish, make two or three layers. Sand the surface with fine sandpaper, wipe and varnish again.

Using step-by-step instructions, the master class will allow you to master the technique and technology. Thanks to it, you can decorate a bucket, coffee pot, flowerpot and any other metal object. A decoupage master will give an old metal iron the luxury of an art object. The work uses not only napkins, but also postcards, magazine illustrations, and photographs.

Decoupage on a metal surface: Coffee can

Author Alisa Luchinskaya

Materials:

• coffee tin
• 2 Polycolor acrylic paints in contrasting colors
• decoupage glue Art Potch
• craquelure varnish (one-component)
• Hobbyline glossy topcoat varnish
• napkins, brush, scissors, sandpaper

1. The surface of the can needs to be lightly rubbed with sandpaper so that the paint “adheses” better. Clean the jar from dust.

2. Cover with an even layer of acrylic paint of the color you want the cracks to be, in our case it is brown. Allow the paint to dry completely (about 20 minutes)

3. Apply “one-component craquelure” varnish with a wide brush (not hard, synthetic) to the entire surface of the jar (or to those places where there will be cracks), the thicker the layer of craquelure, the larger the cracks will be. Leave to dry until tack-free (about 15-20 minutes, depending on the layer of varnish).

4. Next, apply the top coat of paint in the direction in which we want the cracks to go. The brush should not be passed over the same place twice, otherwise the craquelure may not appear. It is also not recommended to apply a top coat of paint in metallic colors; craquelure varnish may simply not tear it apart. We dry the product naturally or speed up the process with a hairdryer.

5. From the napkin you have chosen, separate the layer with the pattern and very carefully tear out or cut out with scissors the motif that will be glued to the jar. We apply it to the jar and very carefully, using soft strokes, starting from the center and moving to the edges, apply glue. There should be plenty of glue on the brush so that the napkin seems to float under it. If folds form somewhere when applying the glue, try to expel the air from under them by smoothing them out with your fingers. Just do it very carefully.

In today's article, we will talk about decorating metal surfaces with our own hands. Many craftswomen who are fond of decoupage, having tried different ways of decorating objects, are in search of new ideas for creativity. Decoupage on metal can be one of them.

Having decided to do decoupage on metal, the selected surfaces must first of all be degreased and sanded. These processes are required for better adhesion of the primer to the plane. If rust is detected on the surface, it is treated with a special cleaning agent, which can be purchased at specialized hardware stores.

In the next step, you will need to prime the metal surface. Here you can use a special product with a gypsum base, which in the future can prevent peeling of the decor. Acrylic-based paints are not suitable for priming metal products. Many needlewomen use water-based emulsion as a primer.

The primer should be applied in several layers with intermediate sanding with light pressure. To apply the primer, use a sponge, since using a brush for this purpose can cause the paint to coagulate, causing it to simply peel off the surface.

Metal surfaces are usually coated with two or more layers of primer, depending on what item you have chosen for decoupage. When your choice falls on a tea box or a pastry box, it is noticeable that they have already been coated with colorful layers, which may later appear. In this case, you need to remove all the motifs using acetone and sandpaper.

The situation is more complicated with old teapots and cans. It is quite difficult to remove paint from such metal surfaces. Here you can try to make decoupage on an uncleaned item. It is worth working with a small area on the selected product. This way you can understand whether decoupage on metal will work without first removing the paint layer and simply degreasing the surface. If there is rust, do not forget to use a special cleaner. But still, the main condition under which decoupage is carried out on metal is sanding and priming of one or another metal plane. After which the product is already coated with paint and decorated using selected images from a napkin, card or printout.

Video: Decoupage on a metal jug

Master class on decoupage on a heating radiator

In the practical part of our article, we will walk you through a master class that will help you make decoupage of a heating radiator with your own hands. For beginners, this lesson is equipped with step-by-step photos illustrating the technological process.

So, for work you need to prepare:

• decorative item - heating radiators;
• sandpaper;
• white enamel with a matte effect;
• rice paper with a suitable theme;
• tassels;
• acrylic based paints;
• PVA glue;
• varnish resistant to temperature changes.

Before decoupaging the battery, its surface is thoroughly washed and lightly sanded. After performing these steps, wipe the battery again to remove any dust residue. Do not use nitro enamel for work. In cases where the previous paint layer was oil-based, nitro painting may form bubbles on the surface.

Drying of the paint occurs within twelve or eighteen hours.

This master class for decoupage of a heating radiator chose a plot in the Provence style, applied to rice paper, the size of which is thirty-four by one hundred centimeters. Since the battery being decorated has irregularities, it is necessary to first measure the width of the fragments. As a result, the paper is drawn into nine-centimeter sections on the reverse side and cut.

Having decided on the area where the pattern will be fixed, the plot is glued to the center of the radiator.

For work, you can use either a special glue for decoupage or PVA, previously diluted with water in a one-to-one ratio. Start gluing from the center of the picture, gradually moving towards its borders.

After the plot is fixed, you need to draw. At this stage, you will need to select suitable shades of paint for the chosen motif and draw some areas in order to more clearly highlight the image and the battery decoupage itself.

Decoupage of the heating radiator is coming to an end. Upon completion of all work on the dried surface, you need to apply heat-resistant varnish. This will help protect your work and extend its lifespan. In the photo you can view the finished result. So, using a simple master class for beginners as a basis, you can try to decorate a heating radiator with your own hands.

Video: Decorating the battery with decoupage