How to cover pipes and radiators with plasterboard. How to make a plasterboard box for a heating radiator. What kind of plasterboard is made from a battery box?

Very often, when completing renovations, people are faced with a situation where the appearance of the room is spoiled by a battery. However, many are afraid that closing it will lead to loss of heat in the house and therefore leave everything as it is.
However, there are technologies and materials that will help not only avoid heat loss, but also give the room completeness and beauty.

Today, there are a wide variety of options and materials to Beautiful sew up the battery.
Based on the characteristics of the closing structure, experts distinguish the following groups of decorative finishes:

  • hinged screens with a lid. Cast iron batteries can be covered;
  • hanging screens without a cover. With their help it is also possible finishing cast iron batteries;
  • flat screens. They can be used to cover modern radiators. In such a situation, the radiator is located deep in the niche;
  • side box With its help, you can completely hide not only the heating device itself, but also the place where it is mounted.

Radiators can be finished with the following materials:

  • metal;
  • plastic;
  • glass;
  • tree;
  • drywall.

Since an increasing number of people prefer to use drywall for repairs, it is also used quite often for covering batteries. Moreover, you can sew up the battery with plasterboard yourself.
Drywall in terms of finishing heating devices has gained such popularity due to its advantages:

  • environmental friendliness of the material. Finishing the interior with such material is completely safe;
  • plasterboard sheets have excellent physical and mechanical properties, so they can be used both in the room and in the bathroom or kitchen;
  • low price;
  • ease of installation. You can easily make a screen with your own hands;
  • the opportunity to realize any fantasies for interior decoration.

When working with drywall, the following options for closing radiators are possible:

  • box The fastest and easiest way. The finishing of the battery in this case exceeds its dimensions on each side by 12-29 cm;
  • building a plasterboard wall in front of a heating device. A more expensive and time-consuming method.

The choice of design designed to close the battery should be made based on your own capabilities and desires.

Tools and materials required for work

To make a plasterboard box yourself, you need to have the following tools with you:

  • building level;
  • drill with screwdriver attachment;
  • screws and dowels;
  • metal knife;
  • perforator;
  • pliers;
  • tape measure and pencil;
  • ruler-corner.

Required tools and materials

In addition, to close the radiator you will need the following materials:

  • plasterboard sheets. Can be used both ceiling and wall;
  • metal profiles having a U-shaped section;
  • putty.

Preparatory stage

Once the material and design option have been selected, the work itself should begin. First of all, you need to do the final preparation of the battery, which consists of painting it. Since after the finishing is completed, this procedure will be impossible to carry out.
When the paint has dried, you can begin marking. Let's consider this procedure using the example of a plasterboard box. To do this you need:

  • measure all parameters of the device. Measurement accuracy is up to a centimeter. The exception is for projects that require precision down to millimeters;
  • Since the box is small, its depth and width are determined by the dimensions of the radiator. Remember that you need to make a minimum distance of 10 cm from the edges of the device;
  • taking into account the position of the box, you need to draw a horizontal line;

Calculation for the box

Note! All markings should be made using a level. Otherwise, creating an even and correct structure will be very problematic.

  • if the box will stand on the floor in a room or kitchen, then you need to draw three lines: two on the sides (depth) and one that will connect them (the front edge of the structure);
  • A square should be placed on the bottom edge of the device and vertical lines should be drawn along the wall at right angles. They should be brought up using a level;
  • Above the battery, these lines must be connected with a horizontal segment.

If everything was done correctly, then at the end of the marking you will get a rectangle or square (depending on the length of the radiator). If the box will be on the floor, for example in the kitchen, then the markings on it should reflect its base.
When deciding to cover the radiator with a plasterboard wall in order to hide the pipe, markings are done as follows:

  • The markings are drawn from the floor to the ceiling. Vertical lines are marked on the wall. The distance between them is half a meter or a whole meter. Don't forget to use a level;
  • The vertical line is extended to the floor using a corner. The distance between them depends on the planned distance from the battery;
  • similar markings are made on the wall. Lines are drawn strictly opposite to the floor lines and parallel to them;
  • then we draw two lines above and below the radiator. In this case, you need to retreat 10 cm;
  • Lines for the profile are also drawn on the right and left sides of the heating device.

Stages of installation work

Finishing the battery with plasterboard (or any other finishing material) with your own hands is possible only after completing the preparatory work. When the markings are ready, you can begin mounting the profile frame. To do this you need:

  • first you should attach the profiles, which should be located on the walls;
  • Marks are made in the wall with a screwdriver, and the required holes are drilled along the entire length of the profile using a hammer drill. Dowels are inserted into them;
  • The profiles are pressed to the holes and screwed with screws. Fasteners must be installed every 15-25 cm;
  • Then, by analogy, you should attach the guides that are adjacent to the wall;
  • after this you need to install the profiles into the depth of the structure. To do this, they should be cut into suitable lengths and attached to long guides that run vertically;
  • We connect the profiles at the top and bottom with long segments.

Ready frame

After creating the frame, you can begin attaching the material. Finishing with plasterboard sheets involves the following actions:

  • we apply the sheets to the profiles and make marks in the places of the cuts;
  • cut the sheets into the required pieces;
  • We attach them to the frame with screws. The interval between them should be 10-15 cm;
  • To create smooth and neat corners, you should use an aluminum corner and putty.

Upon completion of the installation work, the plasterboard box is ready for final finishing. It can be painted, wallpapered or tiled.
Installation of a plasterboard wall frame involves the use of longer profiles that will run vertically. In all other respects, installation work is carried out in a similar way.
You can sew up any heating device using drywall yourself. To do this, you just need to correctly mark and install. Thanks to this, your battery will be hidden from view, while it will continue to heat the room as before.

The concept of modern home renovation involves hiding all utilities. But how to cover heating radiators and pipes with plasterboard, because according to the housing code it is forbidden for them to be hidden in the walls, and the efficiency of the entire heating system will immediately decrease.

There are not many options for hiding batteries, because... According to the housing code, they cannot be hidden in the walls.

The solution is to use drywall in combination with decorative grilles or other design elements.

Features of this finish

In order to hide the radiators of the heating system, a material such as plasterboard is ideal. Its versatility allows it to produce almost any shape, and the surface itself is very convenient for further finishing with various decorative materials. The safety margin is also sufficient, if you do not create too much load on the structure. And of course, the pricing policy of materials plays an important role; the price is affordable for any financial opportunity.

The simplest way to achieve this type of finishing would be to assemble the structure in the form of a box. This option will require a minimum of resource costs and a little time.

The second method is more labor-intensive; it is to create something like a niche for each of the radiators. To do this, the walls are finished with the design of slopes for the battery. So, how to cover a battery with plasterboard yourself?

What is needed for this

As in any other method, the batteries, closed under drywall, are located inside the frame structure. The list of materials and tools is as follows:

  1. Drywall. Only moisture-resistant, which can withstand high humidity without much damage.
  2. Fasteners. The same screws and dowels that are used when mounting any other frame under gypsum boards: dowel-nails, fleas, 25 mm wood screws.
  3. Crab mounts and straight hangers.
  4. When installing a wooden frame, mounting angles are required.
  5. Hammer drill, screwdriver.
  6. Tape measure, level, marking cord.
  7. Tool for cutting metal: hacksaw, scissors or grinder.
  8. Metal profile: UD and CD (guides and racks, respectively).
  9. If the frame is made of wood, then the timber is 40x40 or 50x50 millimeters.
  10. Serpyanka, plaster corner, gypsum putty, spatulas, for finishing the structure.

The list of certain materials is selected individually depending on the features of the plan.

Box installation

You can create a box-shaped structure to cover the battery with plasterboard in a few steps. First you need to prepare the heating radiators themselves, strip off the old paint and repaint it, and also check the functioning of the system itself. After all, when everything is closed, access to the heating system will be significantly limited.

Marking

The box is installed directly on the floor, and the entire construction of the structure begins from there. The floor surface must be durable.

  • Using a level, mark the place where the guide profile will pass.
  • The distance from the radiator should be minimal and not exceed 100 - 120 millimeters.
  • Also, to add rigidity to the structure, marks are made on the wall where direct hangers will need to be installed.
  • Mark a line where the top and side guides will be located.

One of the most important points in installing a plasterboard box is the drawing and marking.

Frame assembly

To assemble the structure, you will need a metal profile marked UD and, if necessary, a rack-mount profile - CD, as well as fastening material - screws and dowels.

  • The UD guide profile is placed on the mark and firmly fixed to the dowels. The fastener must “tightly” secure the profile, since it performs the function of the entire base of the frame.
  • An angular structure in the form of two connected letters “P” is assembled from the same material. The connection is ensured by small self-tapping screws.
  • The assembled corner structures are mounted into the guide onto the marks.
  • The same UD profile structure is attached to the upper part as on the corners.
  • Guides are also attached to the wall with dowels.
  • The entire structure is connected to each other by transverse jumpers made of a CD profile, the connection points are rigidly fixed to the “fleas”.

Sheathing with plasterboard

The resulting structure is sheathed with sheets of plasterboard, cut to the required sizes. Drywall is cut using a utility knife according to previously made marks. To do this, cut through the cardboard on both sides and break off the desired part. Irregularities along the edges are smoothed out with a plane or the same knife.

The covering is done in this way: a sheet is placed on the resulting frame and a self-tapping screw is screwed in using a screwdriver, slightly pressing the head into the surface.

Subsequently, the corners of the box are reinforced with plaster corners, and the surface itself is puttied and finished in accordance with the plans.

The opening itself is closed with decorative grilles.

Installation of a wooden frame for the box

Do not forget about such material as wood. To assemble such a frame, you can use a 40x40 millimeter beam. This structure is assembled as follows:

  • The lower part is assembled in the form of a rectangle. Connections can be made using a tongue-and-groove pattern.
  • The resulting base is rigidly fixed to the floor with dowels or anchors.
  • Racks are installed in the corners using mounting angles.
  • The top can be assembled using the same principle as the bottom. The upper part is also attached to the corners.

The resulting wooden structure is treated with an antiseptic or simply painted and covered with plasterboard.

Niche

This method of covering the battery with plasterboard is more labor-intensive, since it requires mounting the frame on the entire wall. But if the renovation involves complete finishing of the gypsum board room, then a niche is an excellent option.

Marking

Markings are carried out along the entire wall. Marks are made on the floor and ceiling where the guide profile will be mounted, and on the surface of the load-bearing walls they are marked where the racks of the frame structure and additional fastenings in the form of suspensions will go.

Frame assembly and gypsum board sheathing

For this purpose, the technology of assembling a frame for covering walls with plasterboard is used.

  • Guides are installed on the floor and ceiling.
  • Racks are inserted into them and connected to hangers and guides.
  • The niche is assembled from a rack CD profile. Two adjacent ones are used as the main load-bearing posts.
  • The same profile is attached to the supporting rails parallel to the floor surface. In order to connect them, stiffening ribs are cut off at the ends of the profile. The connection itself is made using press washers.
  • If necessary, install slats to create slopes for the niche. In this case, guides are installed on the wall to the right and left of the radiator, which are connected to the racks of the main frame by crossbars.

Sheathing with plasterboard is done using the same technology as the main walls. Plaster corners are glued to the corners of the niche. And the slopes are puttied and finished with decorative materials.

The same principle is observed when assembling a wooden frame. Unless the individual elements are connected to each other by mounting angles.

The resulting niche can be closed using decorative grilles or other intended methods.

There is nothing complicated about the question of how to hide a heating radiator behind drywall. The availability of the material, as well as the simplicity of the installation technique, make it possible to do this without much effort and expense.

During construction, in many houses and apartments, cast-iron radiators of an antique type were installed, which do not match either the decor or the interior, and are also ugly in themselves. But, unfortunately, the housing code categorically prohibits hiding the heating system in the wall. A plasterboard box that will help hide the battery inside will solve this problem. You can see photos of examples of such structures below.

Advantages and disadvantages of drywall

This material has the following negative qualities:

  • drywall is quite fragile and can be easily damaged with bare hands, so you should treat it very carefully;
  • when it comes into contact with a humid environment, it swells, warps, and deforms. If suddenly the battery leaks during operation, the box will have to be remade;
  • after installation is completed, further finishing is required;
  • If the sheets are purchased in advance, they are only allowed to be placed horizontally. If they wait in the wings in a vertical position, curvature is possible.

The positive properties of drywall are the following:

  • the material is excellent for interior decoration of residential premises because it is environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful substances, and is not subject to combustion;
  • There are many varieties of plasterboard on sale, with different properties, allowing you to choose the right option for premises for various purposes;
  • the material combines low cost and ease of installation;
  • This material gives you the opportunity to let your imagination run wild. Using it, it is possible not only to hide the battery, but also to decorate various figured structures and multi-level ceilings with plasterboard.


How to markup

Before hiding the battery, it is advisable to remove the old coating from it and paint it again, because after the plasterboard structure is built, this will become impossible. Meanwhile, the paint will protect the battery from corrosion and will not allow it to deteriorate ahead of time. After the coating has completely dried, the first stage of work begins - marking.

In order to make markup you will need the following tool:

  • square ruler;
  • roulette;
  • pencil, thick felt-tip pen;
  • building level.

When making markings, it is advisable to record dimensions to the nearest centimeter. Millimeters should be avoided except in cases where a project is being implemented that requires precise millimeter measurements when creating the structure.

Before you get started, you need to decide on the choice of battery termination option:

  • An easier and faster way is a box. It is built around the battery, exceeding its dimensions by only 12-20 cm on each side;
  • a more labor-intensive and expensive method is to build an entire plasterboard wall in front of the battery. Because batteries are most often located next to the window, then it becomes necessary to make slopes as well.

When making markings, you must remember that the window sill must protrude beyond the radiator by at least 3 cm. If it is so narrow that fulfilling this requirement becomes impossible, then it should be removed and another one installed. The old window sill is dismantled, a new one is cut out in accordance with the required parameters and inserted at the bottom of the window frame. Next, using a level, it is leveled with choppers. After this, the empty space between it and the base is filled with foam. In order to achieve the strongest possible fixation, place a load on the windowsill. After three hours, the foam will have hardened enough to continue the construction of the plasterboard structure.

How to make markings when constructing a box

The box-shaped design takes up very little space. Its area and depth depend on the size of the battery itself. When constructing a box, the minimum distance from its edges should be 10 cm. This is the smallest distance that allows you to install a removable screen on the front of the structure.

Stages of drawing markings on the wall:

  • starting from the position of the box being constructed, draw a horizontal line. If its bottom does not reach the floor, then you need to step back from it the required distance and draw a line using a level. If the box is supposed to stand on the floor, then three lines are drawn: two of them on the sides are the depth, and one connecting them is the front edge of the box;
  • A square is attached to the bottom edge and vertical lines are drawn along the wall at right angles. Using a level, they are brought to the desired size;
  • at the top, above the battery, the vertical lines are connected to each other by a horizontal segment.

Upon completion of the marking, a square or rectangle should appear on the wall, the shape depends on the length of the battery. If the box is on the floor, then its base should be drawn on it.

How to make markings when building a wall in front of the battery

If you want to hide not only the battery itself, but also all the pipes extending from it, then you will have to build an entire plasterboard wall in front of it. The entire surface on which the heating device is mounted will be completely hidden under it. This method involves more material consumption than in the previous case.

In order to build a wall, a frame structure is constructed from floor to ceiling. To do this, markup is done as follows:

  • Vertical lines are drawn on the wall at intervals of half a meter to a meter, using a level. Be sure to have them in the corners;
  • using a corner, you need to extend each vertical line to the floor. The length of these lines running along the floor should be equal to the planned distance between the wall on which the battery is mounted and the plasterboard wall being built;
  • exactly the same markings are made on the ceiling: lines of the same length should be drawn exactly opposite the floor ones and strictly parallel to them;
  • two more marking lines must be drawn above and below the battery, departing from it by about 10 cm.

On the right and left sides of the battery, you also need lines for the profiles on which the removable screen will be attached. But to save time and effort, it is quite possible to place the main lines drawn from floor to ceiling instead.

Construction of a profile frame

In order to cover the battery with plasterboard, it is necessary to build a frame on which it will rest. To do this, you will need metal profiles with a U-shaped cross-section, 6-7 cm wide.

Materials and tools that need to be prepared to complete the task:

  • profiles that will make up the structure;
  • screws 4-6 cm to fasten structural elements;
  • dowels 4-6 cm to attach the structure to the wall;
  • metal scissors, through which cuts will be made if it becomes necessary to bend the profile;
  • pliers, drill with screwdriver attachment, hammer drill.

Installation begins with fastening those profiles that are located directly on the wall. This is done as follows:

  • the profile is pressed against the line drawn on the wall on either side;
  • use a screwdriver to make a small mark on the wall;
  • use a drill or hammer drill to drill a hole to fit the size of the fasteners;
  • a dowel is inserted into it;
  • the profile is pressed to the finished place;
  • it is attached with a screw.

After the profile is placed on the wall surface, the fastening points are marked at intervals of 15-25 cm from each other. Holes for fasteners are prepared for the entire profile at once.

All guides adjacent to the wall are secured in the same way. If you need to attach a corner of two elements, then the necessary cuts are made with metal scissors.

Now, after the profiles in contact with the wall have been installed, proceed to the installation of profiles that provide the depth of the structure:

  • they are cut into pieces of the required length;
  • in those places where the fold will be, cuts 4-5 cm long are made on both edges;
  • then the middle is bent down, and the sides are cut to the width of the channel flange;
  • the right-angle pieces are attached to the edges of long, vertically running guides. These segments should be directed indoors.

Now all that remains is to connect the sections attached at the top and bottom with long profiles.

When installing a plasterboard wall, long profiles running vertically are used; therefore, two short sections at the top and bottom will not be enough; at least 4-5 pieces will be required.

It is unacceptable for the finished frame structure to shake. If this happens, it means either there are not enough short elements, or the fasteners are installed incorrectly.

How to cover a battery with plasterboard

The most difficult stage of constructing a wall or box for a plasterboard battery is creating a metal frame. The installation of drywall itself is not difficult. It is carried out in the following sequence:

  • a sheet of plasterboard is applied to the frame made of profiles;
  • using a pencil or felt-tip pen, markings are applied to it, indicating the places of cuts;
  • Then the sheets are cut into pieces of the required size and shape. This is convenient to do with a stationery knife with replaceable blades;
  • the finished parts are leaned against the part of the frame for which they were cut and attached with screws.

The interval between the screws should be 10-15 cm. Pieces of plasterboard sheet should be cut one at a time and immediately mounted in their place, otherwise it is easy to get confused due to the corners protruding here and there.

When screwing in the screws, it is important not to overdo it. If you screw them in too deeply without calculating the force, the material at the place where they are installed will be damaged.

A plastic screen with holes for heat penetration is installed in the front plane of the box. Even before installing the drywall, its internal part is fixed to the metal frame. After the box is completely ready, its outer part is inserted into the hole for the screen.

Final finishing of the structure

The finished structure still needs to be prepared for finishing. This process includes several stages:

  • you need to seal the joints of the drywall pieces so that they form an absolutely smooth surface. For this purpose, a sickle mesh is applied to the joint, after which it is puttied;
  • Now the places where fasteners are installed are treated in the same way;
  • to give the corners of the structure additional strength and clarity of lines, perforated corners are installed on them;
  • after this, the entire structure is puttyed, regardless of whether it is a box or a wall. When the putty layer is completely dry, it should be leveled and sanded with fine sandpaper.

At the last stage, finishing is carried out. After its completion, work on decorating the box begins. It would be best to decorate it in accordance with the style, interior and color scheme of the entire room.

When an unsightly heating radiator spoils the interior, there are several ways to solve the problem: replace it with a designer or in-floor model, or simply cover it with a screen/box. The latter method provides several advantages:

  • A screen or box not only hides a bulky structure, but often decorates the room.
  • The screen/box can be used to build an additional console, a shelf for decoration, a bench, a rack, or a desktop.
  • A closed battery is safer for children - there is no risk of burns or accidental impacts. However, one can argue with this argument, because it is in the children's room that heat loss is least needed.

In a children's room, the radiator should be covered with a nice grille with a large number of holes, for example, carved like in this photo

  • If the house is too hot and dry, then closing the radiator will help create a comfortable microclimate for household members, their pets and plants.
  • The screen prevents dust from settling in the inside of the radiator and thus simplifies cleaning.

There are also disadvantages:

  • The heat transfer of a closed battery decreases on average by 10-15% or more (depending on the degree of closure);
  • Screens and boxes often make it difficult to service radiators, and sometimes even block access to them.
  • Often, improperly closed batteries lead to fogging of windows, and then to the appearance of harmful mold on slopes and walls.
  • The screen or box, at least a little, “eats up” the space around the radiator. After all, any elements should be installed at a distance of 5-10 cm from the battery.
  • Battery fencing requires additional expense and hassle.

How to cover radiators - 11 ways from a plasterboard box to a fabric screen

1. Decorative screen/box made of HDF

This option is one of the most popular due to its average price and beautiful appearance.

What is the difference between a box and a screen? The screen is designed for the battery located in a niche or under the window sill (pictured above), therefore, it covers only its front part. The box completely covers the radiator on the wall from all sides.

The screen, like the box panel, is made of perforated HDF sheet (high-density fiberboard 3 mm thick), but the box profiles are made of MDF. Both materials are quite strong, durable and non-toxic when heated.

Advantages:

  • Due to the original perforation, HDF screens/boxes look beautiful and fit into any interior, especially to classic .
  • Heat resistance (the structure does not dry out like natural wood and does not turn yellow like plastic).
  • Easy to assemble and install without the help of specialists.
  • Ready-made HDF screens/boxes can be white or imitate wood (wenge, beech, oak), and custom-made ones can be painted in any color, laminated, or veneered with natural wood. True, the complexity of the design always affects the price of the screen.

Flaws:

  • MDF and HDF do not tolerate prolonged contact with water. If the battery leaks or a pipe breaks, the elements of the box/screen may swell. Therefore, any emergency situations must be resolved immediately.
  • Perforated panels, despite their thinness, are quite durable due to the high density of fiberboard. However, they must be protected from impacts and sharp objects.
  • Perforation sections in factory screens are not painted and are therefore visible.

Price: from 1500 rubles for a finished model and from 2300 rubles for an individual order.

Selection tips:

  • The size of the radiator niche must correspond to the size of the inside of the screen.
  • Screens and boxes for batteries can be either ready-made (assembled like a kit), or made to individual sizes and designs (you can choose a perforation pattern).

Here is a small selection of photos of closed batteries.

Closed battery in the interior of a small kitchen in Khrushchev

2. A plasterboard box

How to cover a battery with drywall? Using this material, you can cover the radiator with a box or create a niche for it in a false wall.

Advantages:

  • Environmental friendliness;
  • Can be used in damp areas;
  • Material available;
  • With a false wall you can cover the pipes and expand the window sill;
  • You can close the battery with a plasterboard box with your own hands without special skills in a few hours of work;
  • You can think through the configuration of the box and false wall yourself, if you wish, equip it with shelves and niches, and additionally cover the pipes connected to the battery. Next, you can look at a photo of a closed battery in a plasterboard false wall with an enlarged window sill-bench and a built-in niche for books.

Flaws:

  • The main disadvantage of a plasterboard box is that this material is afraid of shocks and leaks. If something goes wrong, you will have to completely change the battery casing along with the finishing.
  • A false plasterboard wall for the battery and pipes “eats up” the space, as it is placed 30-35 mm forward from the extreme point of the radiator.

  • As a rule, a frame made of HA must be made at the renovation stage, because its finishing must coincide with the finishing of the walls.

In the following photos you can see the finished kitchen interior with a closed radiator and a plasterboard box in the process of renovation.


Design and Manufacturing Tips:

  • Before covering the radiator with a plasterboard box, be sure to put it in order: blow it out, wash it (this is done at the end of the heating season) and paint it. In the future, doing this without dismantling the box will be difficult or even impossible.
  • The box can be installed on the floor or “hang” on the wall.
  • When designing the box, keep in mind that the window sill canopy must protrude above the front of the box by at least 30 mm. If necessary, the old window sill should be replaced with a wider one.

Visual instructions on how to cover the battery and pipes with a false plasterboard wall are presented in the video below.

And here is a video tutorial on how to cover a radiator with a box.

3. Furniture

In the kitchen, the battery along with the window sill can be built into a set or bar counter, and in the living room, bedroom and hallway - into a bench, console or shelving unit.


This slider shows a selection of photos of closed radiators under the bench.


  • The main condition: in the window sill/lid above the battery you need to provide enough holes for air circulation, and the facade (if there is one) covering the battery must be equipped with a grille (see photo below). Otherwise, there is a risk of windows fogging up and cold in the room.

Sometimes, to hide a heating radiator, it is enough to rearrange the furniture and cover the device, say, with a sofa, armchair or console. In order not to disturb the air circulation, it is better to place the piece of furniture away from the radiator (at least 10 cm), it is also advisable that it stands on legs - this way convective flows will not be blocked.

4. Fabric curtain

This method of disguise is good for rented housing or when the problem of unsightly batteries needs to be solved at minimal cost. The advantages of the curtain are obvious: a piece of fabric is inexpensive, and the choice of colors is very large (you can change the “screens” according to your mood), while the battery always remains available for repair and inspection.

5. Natural wood screen

Advantages:

  • Beautiful and expensive appearance even in the simplest design;
  • Environmental friendliness;
  • Good heat dissipation and ability to accumulate heat.

Flaws:

  • Wood is capricious - poorly prepared wood can swell from a leak or warp from heat;
  • A wooden screen requires special care;
  • High price.

Prices: from 3,000 rubles for the simplest models and from 10 thousand rubles for premium wooden screens.

Here are some photos of beautifully sealed batteries.


6. Glass screen

A glass screen is an excellent decorative solution, but from a thermal engineering point of view it is very controversial.

Advantages:

  • Design for every taste - the glass panel can be transparent and colored, matte and shiny, with or without a sandblasted pattern, with beveled or polished edges;
  • Glass can look neutral or very bright;
  • Glass visually looks light and adds airiness to the interior;
  • Ease of care;
  • Strength;
  • Durability;
  • Heat resistance;
  • Moisture resistance;
  • Absolutely environmentally friendly.

Flaws:

  • More suitable for modern rather than classic interiors;
  • “Eats” up to 40-50% of heat (infrared radiation);
  • High price;
  • Fingerprints may remain on the glass;
  • The panel does not cover the ends of the battery;
  • Screen installation most often requires the help of a specialist.
  • The battery screen should only be made of tempered glass. This is the only way it will be absolutely safe and shockproof.
  • Glass screens are good for use in rooms with excess heat.


7. Metal box

Advantages:

  • Practically do not interfere with heat transfer;
  • Low price;
  • Easy care;
  • Absolute moisture and heat resistance.

Flaws:

  • “Office” appearance that will not fit into every interior.

Selection tips:

  • A metal screen for a battery can look very nice if you order its production from a company specializing in laser cutting of metal or forging.

8. A rattan box or screen

Most often, rattan fabric refers to an artificial rattan mesh woven from cellulose-based fibers reinforced with nylon thread. Artificial rattan is very similar to natural rattan, but unlike it, it is more practical and can be painted in any color. Screens made from natural rattan have natural beauty and durability, but they cost twice as much and are much more difficult to find on sale.

Advantages of a rattan screen:

  • Environmental friendliness;
  • Beautiful view;
  • Strength;
  • Elasticity;
  • Good heat dissipation.

Flaws:

  • The weaving of artificial rattan is quite dense, which can affect heat transfer;
  • The screen must be protected from water.

Prices: from 1,700 rubles (artificial rattan screen).

Rattan fabric (both artificial and natural) can be used to make a battery screen with your own hands. To do this, you need to assemble the box with the frame at the corners, attach the mesh to the inside of the frame, then install the box on the radiator using brackets.

9. Hinged metal screen

The metal structure consists of a cover and a screen and is hung on top of the battery without fixation.

Advantages:

  • Easy installation;
  • Simple dismantling, which facilitates radiator maintenance;
  • Profitable price;
  • Durability;
  • Does not reduce battery efficiency.

Flaws:

  • The ends of the battery remain visible;
  • Almost always, suspended screens are grilles without any decoration.
  • There must be high-quality enamel that does not scratch;
  • It should hold tightly and be easily removed;
  • The screen metal must not be subject to corrosion.

10. Curtains to the floor

Masking the radiator with curtains is a great idea, approved by both heating engineers and decorators. The only problem is that it won’t be possible to hide the battery under the window behind a curtain without shading the room. Unless you hang very light tulle like in this photo.

  • Ability to independently change the panel size;
  • Suitable for kitchens, bathrooms and toilets, that is, rooms with high humidity;
  • Affordable price.
  • Flaws:

    • It looks simple, no frills;
    • Over time, the plastic may turn yellow;
    • When heated, low-quality plastic can release toxic substances, such as formaldehyde.

    Prices: from 300 rubles.

    Selection tips:

    • Plastic battery screens are available in basic colors: white, gray, brown, beige. If desired, the screen can be painted in the desired color with alkyd spray paint for plastic;
    • When choosing a plastic screen for a battery, make sure it is heat-resistant and non-toxic.

    How to close batteries correctly - technical rules and tips

    Before closing the radiator, you need to take into account several technical nuances:

    • Keep in mind that the heat transfer of a closed radiator is reduced in any case, no matter what masking method you choose. The main thing is that the change is not significant. Ideally, the decrease in air temperature in the room should be about 1-1.5 degrees.
    • Before closing the battery, put it in order: blow it out, wash it (this is done at the end of the heating season) and paint it.
    • Keep in mind that the denser the grille weave, the better it masks the radiator, but the worse it conducts heat. Therefore, when choosing a screen for a battery, try to look for a middle ground or rely on heat saving.
    • To minimize heat loss, the screen can be placed on legs and a groove can be cut in the center.

    • When closing the battery, it is very important not to block convective air flows, otherwise it will blow in the room and the windows will begin to fog up, which will ultimately lead to the appearance of mold on the walls. Ideally, the window sill visor should protrude no more than 30 mm above the radiator; the top and bottom of the radiator should be as open as possible.
    • There should be a distance of at least 35-50 mm between the battery and the screen. There should be a gap of about 60-70 mm from the radiator to the floor and to the window sill.
    • To resolve emergency situations, it is necessary to provide free access to the radiator. For example, the box grille can be removable, folding (see photo), opening on hinges or sliding out on profiles.

    At a minimum, for trouble-free maintenance, the following must remain in good accessibility: pipe connections, valves, thermal head and threaded connections.

    • You can increase heat transfer by 20-25% by placing a heat-reflecting screen, for example, fumisol, on the wall behind the radiator. Often this is quite enough to completely compensate for the heat loss of a closed battery.

    Heating is the most important part of every winter. Thanks to it, we live the cold season in warmth and comfort, which makes the presence of a battery in the room an advantage, but its bulkiness and inelegant design interfere with planning renovations.

    Large and protruding pipes are difficult to imagine in a sophisticated classical style, a modern high-tech direction, as well as in any other.

    The usual location for the battery is the wall under the window. Due to its design, the battery stands out strongly in front of the wall. A protruding piece of metal does not add beauty to the room, which led the designers to think about how to beautifully decorate the battery in the interior.

    Especially considering that the problem of protruding heating threatens the health of children. Batteries are essential in a child's room. They maintain the desired temperature, which prevents hypothermia and colds in the child’s body.


    But what about children’s activity and clumsiness? Children are easily hit, burned and cling to protruding parts of the heater.

    Modern apartments are released for sale with newer models, they are more reliable and safer, but their appearance is far from ideal. And I don’t want to talk about old houses with huge “monsters” for heating. The hardest part is not hiding the heater, but doing it without losing the basic heating properties.

    Popular ways to hide a battery

    Every problem has its own solution. And the answer to the question of how to cover radiators has long been found. Interior designers have found many solutions to this problem. The most used include:

    Screen

    The most popular solution for masking old radiators is a screen. It is most often made of metal. Knowing such parameters as the width, height and length of the heater, you can easily select the appropriate model. Screens are stamped in large quantities and for different parameters.

    The advantages of this solution include maintaining the main function - heating the room. The material also has high strength and wear resistance, does not change shape at high temperatures, and is cheaper than other options.

    Among the shortcomings is not the best appearance. It looks, of course, much better than a battery without it, but it still won’t fit every interior. You can look at the photo of hidden batteries in more detail. If you have limited finances, you can decorate the screen yourself.

    Wood screen

    A more expensive and beautiful option is a wood screen. It is difficult to find a ready-made option that fits the parameters, so such things are made to order by professionals and done by hand. The type of wood chosen to match the color of the furniture and the appropriate texture will serve as a stunning example of how to hide a battery.


    The pattern is chosen in the form of a sieve or weaving. They perfectly mask the shortcomings of the heating system and have high heat transfer. The cost is much higher than the price for metal screens. But in return you get a detail that perfectly matches the design.

    Depending on the desired result, the screen can be created in the form of a high bench, a cabinet, a chest, or simply with additional shelves. The advantage is the possibility of making it at home.

    Plastic screen

    A screen made of plastic is a cheaper option than a wooden one. But when purchasing, be sure to ask for quality certificates. And do not buy such an important part of the interior in non-specialized places and unknown brands.

    Plastic is not the most reliable material and a product purchased simply on the basis of price can release toxic fumes at high temperatures or even melt on the battery.

    A more elite option is special built-in furniture, which is made to order according to individual measurements and sketches. The easiest way to hide pipes is in a table, closet, chest of drawers, seat, etc. But an important condition is the free circulation of air from the heating site, which will allow both to close the radiator and to heat the room without interference.

    If you are an ardent opponent of noticeable pipes or unnecessary elements in the room, then you can wall up the heating system under the walls. There are several options for execution and both are not the simplest.

    The first option is to make adjustments at the stage of building the house, which will allow you to install the system behind the wall. If you live in a house or apartment that has already been completely built, you can create a false wall. Just covering everything at a short distance from the radiator.

    The disadvantages include a reduction in free space and a clear reduction in the room. And also the room will be heated a little worse. Natural difficulties will arise, as well as costs in the event of a breakdown.

    For a long time, including now, batteries have been masked using heavy curtains made of thick fabric. The good idea is that it does not require extra costs or investments. And curtains are a natural part of the interior and do not attract much attention.


    You can paint or wallpaper the heating pipes. This will help reduce their visibility indoors. But everything must be done efficiently. Paint with smudges or wallpaper hung askew will only attract unnecessary attention and will involuntarily catch the eye.

    Unusual ideas for hiding a radiator

    You can get rid of all the pipes and replace them with safer underfloor heating. The method has its advantages, first of all, you will not depend on the heating season, the free space will increase, the chance that you will be doused with boiling water from your own battery will be zero.

    The downsides are electricity prices, the possibility of short circuits, fires, etc. increases. And also in the absence of light, in winter you will have to look for another place to spend the night.

    Fabric covers for radiators are gaining popularity for children's rooms. Most often they are made by hand. They are created in the form of a favorite character or canvas with a magical story, letters, numbers, etc.


    It all depends on the age and hobbies of the baby. This detail will go perfectly with the atmosphere of the children's room and will protect the child from burns and bruises.

    Particularly original people hire artists. They use a battery instead of a canvas and paint on it with heat-resistant paints, creating unique masterpieces that match the interior of the room. The advantage is the ability to draw a new picture if you suddenly want to change the design of the room.