Clivia or Kaffir lily belongs to the amaryllis family. This perennial flower is found in the wild in South Africa, and today only three varieties of this plant are known.

Thanks to its decorative qualities, unpretentiousness and ease of care, clivia is very popular in gardening. This beauty attracts with its appearance both during flowering and during its absence. If you decide to grow clivia at home, caring for it will be a real pleasure.

Popular types of clivia in home floriculture

Clivia is a unique flower that combines the brightness of bell-shaped flowers and the richness of dark green leaves growing at an angle of 180°, forming peculiar pyramids. Clivia grows leaves slowly (5-10 pieces per summer), but does not shed them for a long time.

Clivia blooms for about a month, opening buds one by one, which makes it seem that the plant blooms for a long time.

The decorative form is a low-growing plant, while wild flowers reach gigantic sizes. Not all forms of clivia are suitable for growing at home; only certain types will fit harmoniously into the interior of the room.

Did you know? Clivia patronizes people born under the sign of Sagittarius. It helps maintain cheerfulness and protects against negativity.

Latin name - Clivia Gardenii. It grows up to half a meter in height, has leathery, belt-shaped, long, dark green leaves pointed at the ends. It blooms in the second half of winter with red bells collected in an umbrella inflorescence. The peduncle reaches a height of 50 cm.

The most common type of decorative clivia. The second name of this flower is Clivia Miniata, in Latin - Clivia Miniata. While the flower is dormant, it is impossible to distinguish it from Clivia beautifula - its leaves are also belt-shaped, dark green in color and 70 cm long.

The difference is noticeable when Clivia cinnabar blooms - its flowers are red-orange, the petals are yellowish at the base. This species blooms in February-May and forms up to 20 flowers on a peduncle. It was Clivia cinnabar that became the basis for the development of new varieties of this beautiful plant.

The Latin name is Clívia Nobilis. It has the same belt-shaped leaves, only their length is slightly shorter - 40 cm. P When flowering, it produces a half-meter-long peduncle with long, funnel-shaped flowers of a light red hue, collected 30-60 pieces per inflorescence. The petals of the beautiful Clivia are green at the tips. Flowering time is the second half of winter.

Optimal conditions for growing kaffir lilies at home

In addition to luxurious flowering and unpretentiousness, the advantages of clivia include its longevity. If you know everything about clivia and properly care for this southern plant, you can admire it for decades.

Location and lighting

First of all, you need to remember that clivia loves bright, diffused light and suffers from direct sunlight.

Western and eastern window orientations are best. If you place a flower on the south side, you should take care of its shading. It is also not recommended to place clivia on the north side - it will grow more slowly and may not bloom at all.

In summer, it is advisable to expose indoor clivia to fresh air: on the terrace or balcony, but do not forget about sun protection.

Important! During flowering and the development of buds, you cannot replant the clivia or move the pot with it - the plant will begin to shed its leaves. If the bush has been rearranged, you need to place it towards the light with the same side as in its original place.

Temperature

If you are thinking about how to make clivia bloom at home, create a suitable temperature for it. During the growth period it should be +20-25 °C, and from autumn to spring – +12-14 °C. When the temperature drops, the plant goes into a dormant period and sets buds for the next season.

As soon as the first peduncle appears, the temperature should be increased to +18-20 °C.

Important! The larger and older the plant, the longer its dormant period should be.

Features of caring for clivia during the flowering period

If you decide to grow this flower, remember that clivia needs special soil, consisting of leaf, turf soil and sand, Otherwise, care at home consists of proper feeding and watering. It is desirable to have good drainage, for which you can use ordinary sea pebbles.

Watering and humidity

Clivia is not particularly demanding on air humidity, however, low humidity in winter and lack of lighting leads to the fact that the plant quickly fades.

Spraying should be done for hygienic purposes rather than to increase humidity. Dust on the leaves can be removed with a damp cloth.

Clivia needs moderate watering - with excess moisture, the roots begin to rot, and the trunk and leaves turn brown. For irrigation it is necessary to use settled, not hard water. It is necessary to water after the surface layer of soil has dried, and excess water from the pan must be poured out.

When the plant has released a peduncle and until the flowers fully bloom, the frequency of watering is increased. After the clivia has faded, reduce watering. During dormancy, the flower practically does not need watering - once or twice a month is enough to prevent the leaves from drying out.

In winter, you need to monitor the condition of the leaves - color and vitality. If you notice changes, carefully examine the plant to find out why the tips of the clivia leaves are turning yellow. If you don't notice any pests, just moisten the soil.

Did you know? In its homeland, clivia is used to treat snake bites.

When and with what to fertilize

From the first year of life, from spring to August, it is advisable to fertilize clivia. To do this, use organic or complete mineral fertilizers twice a month. It is advisable to alternate fertilizers. There is no need to feed clivia during the dormant period.

If you decide to use ready-made fertilizers, then you need to choose for bulbous and flowering plants. In this case, florists recommend reducing the concentration indicated in the instructions.

Complex fertilizers are added to water for irrigation.

Features of care during the rest period

Experienced florists advise arranging a dormant period for home clivia - wintering. There are certain rules for caring for clivia after flowering.

At the beginning of autumn, it is advisable to place the pot with the plant in a cool room, the temperature in which will be 7-12 °C. With the onset of cold weather, he is returned to the room where he will spend the winter.

For young plants, two months of rest is sufficient. For adult clivia, the dormant period should last longer - until March, when the flower arrow begins to grow.
There is practically no need to water and feed clivia during the dormant period. The lily signals a lack of moisture by dropping its leaves.

Important! Feeding during the dormant period will deplete all the strength of the clivia, and it may even die.

After proper wintering, the lily blooms longer and richer.

Subtleties of clivia transplantation

Young clivias need annual replanting as they rapidly increase in size. Adult plants need to be replanted when the roots do not fit in the pot - usually once every 2-3 years. The transplant is done after the clivia has faded.

Despite the fact that Clivia is patient even with unfavorable conditions, transplanting is stressful for it. Therefore, you need to carefully follow the rules for transplanting this plant.

The soil for clivia should be slightly acidic, loose and not monotonous. Optimal proportion:

• turf - 2 parts;
• peat – 1 part;
• humus - 1 part.

For a young flower, it is advisable to add perlite or coarse sand - 1 part to 2 parts turf or leaf soil.

The pot for clivia should be small in size - the roots should fit tightly in it. To ensure proper air exchange and drainage, the flowerpot must have drainage holes.

The size of the pot for each subsequent transplant should be 2-4 cm larger than the previous one.

Important! If clivia is planted in a spacious pot, it will bloom sluggishly or not bloom at all.

To prevent stagnation of water, drainage must be placed at the bottom of the pot, and the root collar must protrude to the surface when replanting (to prevent rotting of the leaves).

Often, when replanting, the roots of clivia are damaged, so the creases need to be sprinkled with activated carbon powder or ash, and in this case it is impossible to water immediately after replanting, since the root system will begin to rot.

Very large flowers are no longer replanted; the top layer is refreshed with them every year.

Clivia propagation at home

Like many lilies, clivia reproduces by seed and vegetative methods.

Clivia from seeds

Not the most common method of propagating clivia at home, since it is not very effective. However, many gardeners use it successfully.

To obtain seeds, flowering clivia is cross-pollinated. If pollination is successful, a green ovary will appear. After ripening, the berry acquires a reddish tint and becomes soft.

Kaffir lily is grown from seeds from October to April. The seeds are planted in a container with a nutrient substrate (peat, sand, turf) at a distance of 2 cm from each other. Sprouts will appear only after six months.

After the seedlings grow up and begin to produce leaves, they are transplanted into small (7 cm in diameter) separate containers. Subsequent transplantation is carried out as the clivia grows. For the first two years, pots for replanting should be 3 cm larger than the previous ones. You can add some humus to the substrate.

After two years, starting in autumn, the flower needs to be provided with a period of rest, since clivia begins to bloom in the third or fourth year of life.

Vegetative method

The most optimal method of growing clivia is propagation by children. They separate from the mother plant at the time they have 4-5 leaves. Given the fragility of the roots, any damage should be avoided.

Important! Under no circumstances should sprouts be separated during flowering.

For young sprouts, choose a container no larger than 7 cm in diameter. When the young flower adapts and gets stronger, it can be transplanted into the ground for clivia. The plant will begin to bloom in 2-3 years.

Possible problems when growing clivia

Problems may arise as a result of improper care of clivia. In order for the flower to delight you with its beauty longer, we will describe the main signs of erroneous care, the causes and ways to eliminate problems.

Most often, clivia suffers from excess moisture, as a result of which its root system rots and painful signs appear. If there is insufficient watering, the peduncle may be too short.

If the time has come for the kaffir lily to bloom, but it does not bloom, it means that the dormant period for it was short. In this case, you need to provide the plant with a full period of rest by placing it in a cool room.

Clivia also stops blooming at high temperatures or insufficient lighting. This problem is dealt with simply - the temperature regime necessary for the season is created and diffused light is provided.

Another reason for lack of flowering may be excess nitrogen. In this case, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded, and potassium or organic fertilizers are used instead.

Did you know? Clivia was named after the Duchess of Northumberland, Charlotte Clive.

Leaves are drying

If the leaves of a clivia dry out, this may be a sign of waterlogging or stagnation of water. In order to save the plant, you need to change the substrate and place the flower there, after cutting off the rotten roots and disinfecting the cuts.

The leaves are turning yellow

Clivia may respond to replanting with yellowed leaves. To correct the situation, you need to water the plant with water with the addition of a few drops of a root growth stimulator (for example, Kornevin).

Insufficient watering can also affect the color of the leaves. In this case, it is necessary to adhere to the watering regime and ensure that the earthen ball does not dry out.

Another reason why clivia leaves may turn yellow is lack of nutrition. Everything is simple here - the feeding regime must be followed.

Disease and pest control

With proper care, clivia is practically not susceptible to disease, but sometimes it is still attacked by illnesses.

The most common disease of clivia is gray rot. A pot that is too spacious can provoke its appearance. Rot appears as brown spots on the leaves. It can be cured by replanting it in a new pot with disinfected soil, after first removing the affected roots and treating them with activated carbon powder.

When a mealybug appears, wipe the clivia leaves with a cotton swab or cloth soaked in alcohol or a soap-tobacco solution.

Pests can also attack clivia, the most dangerous of which are considered:

1. scale insect;
2. mealybug;
3. spider mite;

These pests need to be controlled with insecticides and damaged areas removed.

As you can see, caring for clivia is not at all difficult. However, a number of nuances must be taken into account to ensure that growing this beauty brings maximum pleasure.

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The flower is quite capricious, but thanks to its high decorative properties, many fans of bright colors strive to get it. to create a spectacular decor. Long (up to 60 cm), wide (up to 6 cm) leaves and deep orange buds refresh the space.

Clivia miniata will decorate your home and office. Knowledge plus a little patience, and a plant with red-orange petals will delight you with rich shades of buds on a long peduncle.

Can I keep it at home?

Plant tolerates temperature well, humidity, traditional for middle latitudes.

In summer, an exotic flower grows well in the fresh air; in a slightly shaded place.

Place the pot taking into account the whims of the exotic flower, and during the flowering period the room will be decorated with a bright sun of red-orange buds.

Towards humidity air from Clivia miniata no special requirements: in warm weather, it is enough to treat the long leaves with a damp cloth or sponge.

Temperature

"African miracle" with orange-red buds does not tolerate heat. Before purchasing a decorative element to decorate a room, think about whether you can create optimal conditions for the growth and flowering of cinnabar clivia.

Requirements:

• Spring-summer - the thermometer should not rise above +25 C.
• When releasing the flower arrow, make sure that the temperature in the room is within optimal limits: no more than +20 C.
• Has October arrived? It's time to move the clivia to a room where it will be no more than 12–14 degrees.

Note! During “rest” (from October to November/December), Clivia miniata tolerates higher temperatures, but the health of the stems and leaves suffers from unsuitable conditions, and failures occur with the release of the peduncle.

Lighting

Consider the nuances when placing a flowerpot:

• bright, mandatory, diffused lighting is a plus, direct rays of the sun are a minus;
• optimal placement - next to the east or west window;
• When placing a flower pot on the south side, be sure to create a little shade.

IMPORTANT! Clivia cinnabar with bright orange-red buds does not like direct sun, but complete shade is undesirable.

Avoid the north side: lack of light negatively affects the growth of Clivia "Miniata", the quality and duration of flowering. Sometimes the buds do not appear at all.

Planting, how to replant

Carry out manipulations carefully, disturb the flower less often. Incorrect replanting often ruins the bright decoration of a room.

Rules:

• replant young shoots every year, move orange clivia to another flowerpot every two or three years;
• fleshy roots react negatively to transplantation;
• If the roots of the plant are damaged or rotting, sprinkle them with ash or crushed coal.

IMPORTANT! In years when Clivia orange remains without replanting, refresh the top layer of soil. By the end of February, remove a few centimeters of soil and add fresh soil mixture to the pot.

Helpful Tips:

• choose a small pot: limited space will ensure regular, long-term flowering of Clivia;
• When planted in a spacious pot, the power of Clivia miniata will be directed to the formation of strong rhizomes. If you choose the wrong pot, you won't get the perfect flowers.

Priming

To the composition of the soil Clivia orange does not make any special requirements:

• prepare a mixture of sand, leaf and turf soil (proportions 1:2:6);
• light soil with a slightly acidic reaction is an ideal environment for the growth of decorative flowers.

Reference! Good drainage at the bottom of the flower pot is important to maintain optimal soil moisture.

Fertilizer

Fertilize Clivia cinnabar (Clivia miniata) in spring and summer.

Liquid organics work effectively, mineral fertilizers are needed.

Every two weeks alternate organic and synthetic substances.

Be sure to nourish the soil when throwing out the flower arrow.

Watering

"African beauty" does not tolerate waterlogging. Water the plant with soft, settled water at room temperature.

How to proceed:

• from the beginning of October to the end of November (or until December, if the age of Clivia cinnabar has reached two to three years), watering is not needed. Renew soil moisture if the plant drops its leaves;
• when flowering, make sure that the earthen ball is slightly dried out between waterings;
• Stagnant water in the tray is harmful to the exotic plant.

Advice! After the formation of bright buds, water the plant more actively. Use only warm water to moisten the soil.

Bloom

Characteristics:

• February – May. Clivia cinnabar produces a long (up to 50 cm) peduncle;
• the arrow is crowned with a rosette with spectacular flowers (most often from 10 to 20 pieces);
• funnel-shaped buds have a peduncle 2–3 cm long, petals up to 5 cm;
• bright buds of a rich, red-orange hue, yellow throat.

Adviсe:

• after releasing the arrow, carefully move the flower to a warmer place;
• be sure to fertilize the soil and water it a little more;
• “disturb” clivia orange when the peduncle has grown at least 10–15 cm.

Take note:

• experienced gardeners recommend moving the flowerpot less often during the formation of buds;
• When moving a flower pot to a new place, be sure to place the orange clivia in such a way as to maintain the previous direction of growth.

IMPORTANT! Carefully remove dried buds and peduncles (only after drying).

Rest period

Without this stage, abundant flowering cannot be achieved. The optimal “rest” time depends on age: for young clivias - 2 months (October - November), for adults - until the end of December.

• Be sure to move the orange clivia to a cool place. Make sure that the air does not warm up above +14 C, but below +12 degrees is also undesirable: the plant will weaken;
• watering infrequently, if leaves begin to fall, add a little water;
• rest lasts 2–3 months;
• after this period, bring clivia cinnabar “out of hibernation”: provide 18–20 degrees of heat;
• simultaneously with the change in temperature, return the previous lighting: a sufficient level of light without direct rays.

Clivia cinnabar flower in the photo below:

Reproduction

Seminal

Peculiarities:

• the fruits ripen in the ninth – tenth month after pollination;
• From November to April, collect orange clivia seeds and sow them in a mixture of equal parts of turf and sand. Take half as much peat;
• after a month or a month and a half, shoots appear;
• transplant the young plant into a small pot after the first leaf appears. Soil: peat, sand and humus - 1 part each, turf - 2 parts;
• as the flower grows, increase the size of the pot - to 9–10 cm in the second year, to 12–13 cm in the third;
• after six months there are already 4 or 5 leaves, in the second year another three to four pairs of wide, long leaves are added;
• in the third year in the fall for 2 months, be sure to provide peace, the correct temperature, and humidity: if the conditions are met, a third of the seedlings will bloom for the first time.

Vegetative

• at home, use “babies” (shoots);
• when transplanting an exotic plant, carefully separate the shoots that have 4 or more leaves;
• for the growth of offspring, a mixture of equal parts of greenhouse, leaf and turf soil is suitable;
• overmoistening is unacceptable: from excessive watering, the transplanted “babies” easily rot;
• in two to three years, subject to the temperature regime and ensuring a dormant period, Clivia will definitely delight you with bright colors.

Benefits and harms

The ornamental plant Clivia miniata, native to South Africa, brings warmth into the home.

Flower with funnel-shaped buds An orange-red hue on a long peduncle decorates any room due to its exotic appearance.

Negative impact Clivia miniata not detected: the decorative element does not harm people prone to allergies.

Diseases and pests

Clivia is quite capricious: An amateur gardener will have to try hard to please the South African “beauty”. If the rules of maintenance and care are violated, the appearance and decorative properties of the plant deteriorate, and flowering is not as abundant.

Problems and causes:

• The arrow is not long enough. Minimum moisture, low temperature during clivia growth;
• lack of buds. The pot with clivia cinnabar stood in an insufficiently lit place, the rest before flowering was too short, the temperature was higher than normal;
• leaves are covered with white spots. Clivia orange was in direct sun for a long time.

Pests:

• mealybug. All ground parts of the decorative flower are affected, clivia leaves curl, dry out, and fall off. In the absence of timely measures, the flower dies. Wipe the leaves and stem with a sponge dipped in soapy water. In case of severe damage to orange clivia, use Actellik solution 0.15% for spraying;
• scale insect Brown plaques are visible on the stem and leaves. Gradually, the scale insect sucks out the juice, the cells lose moisture, pigmentation disappears, the affected leaves dry out and fall off. Measures to combat scale insects are similar to eliminating the influence of mealybugs on the growth and flowering of Clivia miniata.

Subject to the care requirements, sufficient attention to lighting and temperature conditions, clivia cinnabar will be a bright decoration of your home or office for several years.

Useful video

It will be useful to watch the following video about caring for, including clivia cinnabar:

If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.

Clivia, as the owner of a complex and intertwined root system, finds it difficult to survive manipulations with transplantation; there is a high risk of rotting of the root system. Replanting the plant is required to renew the soil and to expand the size of the pot in accordance with the overgrown roots.

There are two ways to renew the soil and solving the problem of root fibers coming out of the soil: replanting and transshipment.

Important! For old clivias, replanting is not recommended; it is advisable to simply renew the upper part of the soil annually, the thickness of the new layer is up to five centimeters. To do this, take loose soil with weak acidity - a couple of parts of turf with one part of peat and one part of compost.

Rules and regulations

Conditions (temperature, humidity)

Clivia is not picky about humidity parameters, but the optimal temperature for the event would be the usual room temperature of 20-25 degrees.

Drainage

Place a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot from expanded clay granules, small pebbles or crushed stone, from small fragments of red brick. This is necessary to regulate soil moisture.

Disinfection

The first is when the soil is spilled with boiling water. The second is when they are treated with a solution with a minimum percentage of potassium permanganate. Third, the soil is heated in the oven at 250 degrees for ten minutes. The fourth method is calcination in the microwave for three minutes at maximum temperature.

Sometimes they resort to the use of chemicals for antiseptic treatment, but they destroy not only harmful factors, the healthy microflora of the soil is also disrupted.

Fertilizers

After the antiseptic part, the soil is enriched with nutritious fertilizers.

For young seedlings, loose soil is more suitable; for this reason, perlite or sand is mixed into the soil at the rate of one part of the product to five parts of soil.

Attention! When working with young flowers, the risk of damaging the roots increases, since during this period they are still very brittle and fragile. Even a light touch can break the integrity.

Important nuances

Soil composition

The pH level should be about six units, since clivia loves slightly acidic soils. Another important indicator is the looseness and lightness of the soil.

To achieve such standards, middle peat, turf and compost are combined. Add charcoal or bark or vercumlite to the soil. You can take ready-made soil for orchids; its composition corresponds to the vital needs of clivia.

Organic and mineral fertilizers are added to nourish clivia in the soil every couple of weeks from spring until the end of the summer season. Mineral fertilizer is diluted at the rate of two grams per liter of water. Organic is sold in liquid form and is dosed according to individual instructions for the product.

Feeding with organic matter and minerals is done alternately, every other time. When replanting, the soil is enriched with phosphates, and mineral or organic fertilizer is poured after some time, if the replanting coincides with the period of recommended organic-mineral feeding.

From the beginning of October until the appearance of the first flowering shoot, no feeding is done. They also use mullein, ash, compost, and sapropel as organic matter.

Dishes

As already stated, the new container for transplantation should correspond to the volume of the braided earthen ball. Clivia began to need more space for its roots, and before purchasing, they estimate the approximate volume of a replacement flower pot for the old one.

The shape of the vessel should be in the form of a cylinder, since the roots of clivia develop downwards vertically. Pots that taper at the bottom are not suitable here; they will not allow the root system to gain growth and strength.

The height of the pot is calculated as follows: add five centimeters to the length of the earthen ball for the soil pad and three to four centimeters for the drainage embankment. They also add two to three centimeters for the upper indentation from the edge of the pot, that is, from the open part of the neck of the plant’s root to the edge of the container. This open area without soil can be sprinkled with expanded clay moisture regulator, which prevents the formation of mold on the soil during watering.

Advice! Due to the vulnerability of the flower roots, it is advisable to take plastic rather than ceramic pots; their smoothness ensures easy removal when replanting. The vessel should have holes in the bottom to drain excess moisture.

Obtaining transplant material

It is necessary to plant clivia both for plants that have outgrown the pot and for purchased varieties. The roots of a purchased flower are located in a specific temporary substrate and require mandatory replanting for life and development. The transplantation technology is exactly the same, with the only difference being that the transshipment method is impossible for a purchased plant.

The first three days the plant needs to create a rest zone. To do this, you need to place the clivia in the shady part of the room. After this, the pot is moved to a favorable place, with diffused lighting and temperature appropriate for the time of year.

It is known that clivia loves coolness in the autumn-winter period and feels great at a temperature of 14-15 degrees. After transplantation, this regime is not suitable, and they place it in similar conditions no earlier than a month or two, waiting until the plant gets stronger and becomes completely accustomed.

Fertilizers begin to be used after the flower gains strength, takes root, and straightens out. This is important because the energy reserves of the plant itself are being activated, which requires a period of “independence,” since the internal resources of the flower’s vital forces are revealed only in conditions without additional nutrition. Before this, water as usual with clean water.

When and how often should this be done?

In fact, there is no clear mode of transfers; this action is carried out when the need arises. The main reason for replanting is that the rhizomes have outgrown the volume of the pot, at which point the roots begin to protrude from the ground, peeking out from behind the edges.

Reference! The optimal time for transplantation is the period after flowering. The frequency for adult flowers is once every two or three years, for young flowers - annually.

Possible problems

The reason for this is mechanical injury to the root system or deepening of the root neck. When buried, the plant thus normalizes the ratio of above-ground and underground parts.

With a mechanical injury, the process no longer has a corrective effect, but acts as an indicator of a painful phenomenon. In this case, you can water it with Zircon. Echinacea extract concentrate, a powerful antioxidant, acts as an antimicrobial factor and a biostimulant at the same time. This drug is used only in cases of urgent need. You can find out what other problems are possible when growing clivia and how to deal with them.

Useful video

Watch a video about the transplant:

Conclusion

Do not forget about the flower’s love for a cramped pot, otherwise the flowering process will not occur until the roots fill the voids. Proper care of clivia and following the rules of replanting will make the plant beautiful, strong and durable.

If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.

Clivia is one of the most unusual indoor plants, which, with good care, can delight the gardener with its amazing flowers not only in spring or summer, but even in the winter season.

The flower is a member of the amaryllis family. Its habitat is the subtropical zone of South Africa. The plant has only three varieties, the remaining species are obtained by hybridization.

General information

The culture has long, fleshy leaf blades that form a false stem, from the center of which a peduncle with buds appears, which over time turns into beautiful bell-shaped flowers, collected in one neat umbrella inflorescence.

However, in order to grow a beautiful and healthy plant, you should make efforts that will be rewarded with abundant flowering and extraordinary decorativeness.

Clivia types photos and names

(miniata , orange ) – is the most common type of plant. In Latin, the name of the culture is pronounced Clivia miniata. When dormant, almost all plant varieties look the same. The culture reaches a height of up to 70 centimeters and has prominent dark green leaf plates.

The inflorescences of the plant are large, reddish-orange. Flowering time occurs from February to March. There can be up to 20 inflorescences on one peduncle. It was this flower that became the basis for the development of new varieties of clivia.

– the plant reaches a height of up to 70 centimeters. It has long, fleshy, dark green, belt-type leaves. Up to 20 beautiful white inflorescences, bell-shaped, bloom on an elastic, tall peduncle. The crop blooms in early spring.

– the culture has large, umbrella-shaped flowers of a yellow hue with a delicate aroma. They bloom on a long peduncle that appears during the growing season. Flowering time occurs in mid-spring. The plant reaches a height of 70 centimeters and has rich green strap leaves.

– the variety was bred in 1828 in Europe. In nature, the plant grows in Africa and reaches a height of up to 30 centimeters. The leaf blades are xiphoid, tapered at the ends, long, dark green in color. The peduncle reaches a length of up to 50 centimeters. Up to 60 drooping, tubular inflorescences of a red or yellow-orange hue are formed on it. Flowering time occurs in the second half of winter.

The length of the culture reaches from 30 to 50 centimeters. It grows wild in the Cape Province. The leaf blades are long, dark green with a narrowed end. The peduncle is thick, elastic, and small, pale red inflorescences grow on it, collected in an umbrella. The crop blooms in the second half of winter.

– the plant was discovered by Robert Garden, who first discovered clivia in the city of Kwazal. The culture grows in the shady foothills. Its height reaches 50 centimeters, and the length of the bright green, sword-shaped leaf plates is up to 90 centimeters. The buds appear on a tall peduncle, and when they bloom, they turn into red-orange bell-shaped flowers. Flowering time occurs in autumn or early winter.

- is a miniature variety of plant reaching a height of up to 30 centimeters. The leaf blades are dark green, sword-shaped with a pointed edge. The peduncle is thick and long and can contain up to 60 medium-sized tubular orange inflorescences. This variety of clivia blooms in the second half of winter.

– this variety was bred in 1899. The height of the crop reaches up to 60 centimeters. It has long, strap-like leaf blades of a rich green hue. The inflorescences are a creamy yellow color with a pleasant aroma and are located on a long peduncle. The flowering time of the plant lasts from February to March.

This plant variety was discovered in 1943 in South Africa. The crop is quite large, with an unusual stem formed from the lower dried leaf plates. The stem has an aerial root system and prominent, dark green, smooth, long leaves. The inflorescences are drooping, bell-shaped, red-orange in color. The plant blooms in spring or summer, but there are times when it blooms in autumn.

– this variety was discovered in 2002 in South Africa. The plant reaches a height of 60 centimeters and has unusual sword-shaped leaf plates of a dark green hue with a white stripe in the middle and a dark burgundy base. The inflorescences of the culture are medium-sized, drooping, bell-shaped, orange-red in color.

– the birthplace of the plant is South Africa. The crop grows up to 50 centimeters in length. It has prominent, smooth dark green leaf blades with a white stripe down the middle. Red-orange bell-shaped inflorescences are located on a high peduncle. The plant blooms at the end of spring and beginning of summer.

– the plant reaches a height of 180 centimeters and has long, sword-shaped leaves with a pointed end of a dark green hue. The inflorescences are medium-sized, bell-shaped, forming an umbrella cluster. The crop blooms in mid-winter.

Clivia care at home

In order not to ruin the plant or deplete it, clivia should be wintered in a cool microclimate. Thus, you can not only give the crop a rest, but also allow the bulb to form a peduncle. During flowering, favorable conditions should be created for the plant, or rather, the temperature should be maintained in the region from +17 to +20. After flowering, the crop must be sent for wintering.

In summer, it is best to take clivia outside. From May to mid-August, in garden conditions, it will become even stronger and grow. However, the crop should be placed in the shade, since exposure to direct sunlight will cause burns on the leaves. In mid-August, when the nights begin to get cold, the plant must be brought indoors.

In the summer, the temperature in the room with the plant should not exceed 25 degrees. In winter, clivia should be kept cool. In autumn, the flower should be moved to a bright place with a temperature of 14 to 17 degrees.

The plant likes bright, diffused light, but direct sunlight on the clivia is unacceptable. For this reason, it should be placed on a western, eastern or northwestern window. You can shade the crop using mesh material.

The plant has no special preferences in air humidity. The only thing you need to do is spray the flower in the morning and evening in the summer.

By observing all these requirements, you can grow a beautiful plant with decorative properties and bright, unique inflorescences, which will delight you with their flowering not only in the spring, but also in the winter season.

Zephyranthes is also a member of the Amaryllidaceae family. It can be grown with care at home without much hassle if you follow the rules of agricultural technology. You can find all the necessary recommendations in this article.

Watering clivia

The plant requires moderate watering. If there is an excess of moisture, this will lead to rotting of the root system and death of the crop. For watering, use only settled and warm water.

It is necessary to moisten the soil only when its top layer is completely dry. After the peduncle has been driven out and until all the inflorescences are fully opened, a little more liquid should be added under the plant. After flowering, watering should be reduced.

During wintering, the crop should be watered once a month to prevent the leaf blades from drying out. In winter, you need to carefully monitor the leaves. If they turn yellow and begin to dry out, then the clivia does not have enough moisture. In summer, the flower should be sprayed twice a day, and its leaf blades should be wiped with a damp sponge once a week.

Soil for clivia

You can prepare the soil mixture for the plant yourself. To do this, you need to take turf and leaf soil in equal parts and mix them with a small amount of coarse-grained river sand. Before planting a flower, you should take care of the drainage layer, making it from fine expanded clay.

If desired, the grower can purchase a substrate specifically for bulbous crops. But before planting, it still needs to be mixed with garden and forest soil in equal proportions.

Transplanting clivia at home

Transplantation should be carried out only if necessary, since if the root system is damaged during the procedure, the plant may die. The exception is young plants, which need to be replanted once a year for the first three years of life.

The crop needs to be replanted if the roots begin to fall out of the drainage holes, or they entwine the soil so tightly that they do not fit into the containers.

The transplant should be carried out together with a land surveyor. The new pot should be slightly larger than the previous one and must have a drainage layer and holes for water to drain.

Those clivias that are already more than ten years old do not need to be replanted at all, replacing only the top layer of soil with a new one.

Clivia pot

The container for planting the crop should be about 3 centimeters wider than the previous one. The plant should be slightly cramped in it, thus you can increase the flowering time of the clivia.

When planting a flower in a large pot, the crop will not bloom until its root system completely occupies the entire container.

When choosing a pot for a plant, you should make sure that it has drainage holes, which will allow air access to the crop and remove excess moisture, thereby avoiding rotting of the root system.

Fertilizer for clivia

The plant should be fed only during the growing season, which lasts from early spring to late summer. Fertilizers should be applied once a month.

You can use complex organic fertilizer “Ideal” or use mineral fertilizer by diluting potassium nitrate, urea and superphosphate in equal proportions. Nitrogen fertilizing should be applied to a minimum, otherwise the plant will have luxurious foliage, but flowering will not appear.

Potassium fertilizer must be applied once in the winter season, when the plant forms a peduncle. From the beginning of autumn to the beginning of spring, clivia cannot be fertilized.

Clivia flowering

The difference between clivia and other plants is its flowering in the winter season. The plant throws out a peduncle in the period from January to March, on which buds are formed, which over time turn into bell-shaped inflorescences. There can be from ten to sixty of them on one crop.

After the buds appear, the flower cannot be moved from place to place, otherwise they will simply fall off. Often the color of the flowers is red or red-orange; yellow and white flowers are less common. Clivia blooms throughout the month. The dormant period for the crop begins either in the middle of winter or in early spring.

Pruning clivia

The procedure for pruning a plant, or rather its peduncle, is carried out immediately after flowering, cutting it off at the base.

However, if the grower wants to obtain seeds of the crop, the peduncle should be preserved until they ripen. Also, to preserve decorativeness, you can trim the tips of the leaf blades if they turn yellow.

Preparing clivia for winter

In winter, the plant should be kept in a cool room, watering it only once a month as the top layer of soil dries. It is also necessary to ensure that the temperature does not drop below +12, otherwise the crop will die. The optimal temperature range will be considered to be from + 14 to +17.

When the peduncle appears, the temperature should be increased to 20 degrees. After flowering, it must be reduced again to +17 and maintained in this mode until spring.

Propagation of clivia by children

The most common method of propagation is considered to be propagation of a flower with the help of children that are formed next to the mother plants.

To plant shoots in a permanent place of growth, they should be very carefully dug up and separated so as not to damage the root system of an adult plant. The shoots must have at least four leaves.

Clivia from seeds at home

You can also propagate clivia by seed. However, in this case, it should be taken into account that the young plant will begin to bloom only after several years. Seed material can only be obtained from plants that are more than eight years old. In order for the seeds to germinate, they must be planted immediately after harvesting.

To sow a plant, prepare a soil mixture and pour it into a container with drainage holes. Then the seeds are distributed over the soil and lightly pressed into the soil mixture, after which the soil is sprayed with a spray bottle, after which it is covered with polyethylene.

The prepared container is placed in a bright and warm place, removing the film from time to time and ventilating the seeds, and if necessary, moistening them. Sprouts will appear within a month. When the young plants take root and grow a little, they can be transplanted into separate containers for further growth.

Diseases and pests

Clivia is susceptible to both pest attacks and certain diseases, which often arise due to improper care of the flower.

From harmful insects, the crop is subject to damage scale insects and mealybugs . Both of these pests feed on the sap of leaf blades and can lead to their death, and subsequently the death of the plant. You can fight them by treating the flower with the Aktara insecticide.

Diseases that can harm the plant root rot and bulb rot . For these ailments of fungal etiology, leaf blades turn brown and wither . If you do not help the plant at the initial stage, it will die.

To relieve the disease, the flower must be removed from the pot, cut off the damaged roots, rinse them in warm water with Fitosporin, treat the cuts with charcoal and replant them in new soil and pot.

Problems when growing clivia

When growing this unique flower, the following problems may arise:

• Short peduncle - this situation can arise as a result of low air humidity or too low temperatures.
• Slower growth - a similar problem occurs due to exposure to pests or lack of sunlight.
• Yellowing of leaf plates - leaves may turn yellow as a result of sunburn, improper watering, lack of nutrients, or after replanting.
• Lack of flowering - if the plant stopped blooming, perhaps the dormant period was not observed, it did not have enough light, or the temperature was too high, which led to similar consequences.
• Drying leaves — drying of leaf plates often occurs as a result of waterlogging of the soil.

By eliminating all the shortcomings in caring for the plant, the gardener will be able to restore it to its former beauty and healthy, decorative appearance.

Clivia signs and superstitions

There are many beliefs about this vibrant exotic culture that many gardeners believe in. Clivia also has its place in the eastern philosophy of Feng Shui.

Since the plant is poisonous, it creates a strong mystical aura and a certain mystery around itself.

Signs about this flower include:

• Clivia should not be placed in the bedroom, as it will bring discord and quarrels into the marital relationship. In addition, the strong energy of the flower can affect dreams and cause insomnia.
• The plant is an ideal option for decorating a living room and office. In these rooms it will have a beneficial effect on the environment and eliminate negativity. And if you put a few coins in her pot, this will attract wealth to the house and improve family well-being.
• If a flower stops blooming or suddenly withers, then this is a very alarming omen, foreshadowing expenses, negative changes and losses of a non-material nature.

With proper care of the plant, the owner of the clivia does not have to worry that any negative changes will occur in his life, everything will be exactly the opposite. Prosperity, joy and family well-being will come to your home, but isn’t this what every person dreams of?

Clivia according to Feng Shui

According to ancient Eastern philosophy, the flower should be grown on the south side of the house. Clivia is able to neutralize negative energy. It is a real find for travelers; it can inspire its owner to new discoveries, achievements and profitable projects.

Since the plant is under the sign of the sun, it is able to harmonize the energy in the house and balance the energy fields of everyone living in it.

Conclusion

Clivia is considered a poisonous plant. By following simple safety precautions, the owner will not only maintain his health, but will also be able to enjoy the unique exotic flowers of this crop for many years.

Clivia is popular among floriculture lovers. It is easy to grow even for novice gardeners. But in order to achieve flowering, you need to know the intricacies of caring for Clivia at home and putting it into a dormant state.

Clivia belongs to the amaryllis family. But it differs from the usual lilies in that instead of bulbs it has a rhizome. The leaves growing from the ground form a basket-like pseudostem. Long, dense leaves of a dark green color are located on both sides, tightly adjacent to each other at the bottom and resemble a pigtail. The height of the flower and the length of the leaves depend on the variety.

Even without flowers, a well-groomed plant decorates the room. Children are formed by shoots from the main root. In order to separate them, it is necessary to separate the rhizome by cutting off the baby. During flowering, an inflorescence of buds is formed on the peduncle, the number of which can reach 60 pieces. The flowers look like large bells of red or bright orange. The plant blooms for a month, when dying buds are replaced by new ones. Flowering usually occurs in February, after a dormant period.

Origin and distribution in nature

The plant appeared in Europe in the nineteenth century in England, when it was brought from South Africa. And the flower, according to legend, received its name “Clivia” after it bloomed at the home of Duchess Charlotte Clive. Because before that the flower was grown as a beautiful foliage plant.

It has another name - Cape lily. After all, the habitat is the Cape region, Natal in the south of the African continent. Among the natives, it is used to treat snake bites, which is explained by the presence of toxic substances in the rhizomes and stems.

When growing indoors, care should be taken when transplanting.

After flowering, the popularity of the flower began to expand, and it reached Russia under the name meerkat flower lily, which determines its color.

Clivia varieties

Several species of clivia are found in the wild, growing from marshy lowlands to rocky highlands. New species were brought to Europe by military personnel serving in southern Africa.

Clivia Nobilis (nobilis)

Appeared on the European continent in 1828. It is distinguished by its small height, rarely exceeding thirty centimeters. The dark green leaves taper towards the ends, reaching forty centimeters in length and up to six in width. A peduncle up to 50 centimeters high ends in an inflorescence on which about fifty slightly curved flowers bloom, drooping downwards. The predominant color is orange with a carrot tint or pale red.

Photo of Clivia Vermilion (Miniata)

It has a second name - Clivia 'Miniata'. It was brought to Europe in 1850 from the province of Natal, where it has a wide habitat. The variety grows in the lowlands of coastal areas, in the mountains, where it was found among rocks at an altitude of 800 meters. The leaves are shaped like the noble clivia, tapering towards the edge. The plant reaches half a meter in height. The flowers are arranged in an umbellate inflorescence, spreading radially in all directions. Large flowers of red or orange color, which smoothly turns into yellow throat, grow up to three centimeters. The number of flowers in an inflorescence ranges from ten to twenty.

Clivia Gardena (Gardenii)

It also appeared in Europe in the mid-nineteenth century. It was brought by Major Robert Garden, so it received his name. At home it grows in the province of Natal, in shady mountain forests. It is distinguished from other species by its lighter, bright green leaves. A notable difference is the tuft at the bottom of the leaves, which forms a false stem. Leaves can grow from thirty-five to ninety centimeters. The height of the plant does not exceed half a meter. Narrow flowers bloom on a tall peduncle, which usually appears in February. Their number ranges from ten to sixteen flowers. It differs from other plant species in its shade tolerance.

It is a variety of Clivia miniata. It was found in the forests of South Africa at the end of the 19th century. The plant received its name for its unusual yellow flowers with a creamy tint and yellow berries-seeds.

It was discovered quite recently, at the beginning of the twenty-first century. It differs from other species both in appearance and in its habitat. It grows in the arid regions of southern Africa and is characterized by increased resistance to lack of moisture, scorching sun and light frosts. Its leaves have a white stripe in the center, and closer to the base the leaves have a dark burgundy tint. The plant has not yet become as widespread as other species, but it has already attracted the attention of flower growers.

Many new cultivated varieties of clivia have been developed from wild plants. They are distinguished by their unusual color, which in cultivars varies from snow-white, pastel color to lemon, yellow tint.

Transplanting a plant

Clivia is one of the plants that does not like unnecessary disturbance. Therefore, its transplantation is carried out only when necessary. Adult plants are transplanted when the roots protrude strongly from the surface. This is approximately once every two to three years. Young flowers can be replanted annually. Plants older than ten years are not recommended to be replanted, only to renew the top layer of soil.

Pot suitable for Clivia

When choosing a pot, you need to remember a couple of nuances:

• Do not take a pot with a much larger diameter, otherwise you will have to wait several years for flowering until the roots fill the space of the pot. The pot is selected two to three centimeters larger than the previous one (in diameter).
• The pot should be in the shape of a cylinder, without narrowing downwards. This is due to the characteristics of the rhizome, which grows downwards and not outwards.

The plant can be replanted only after the end of the flowering period. When transplanting, the transshipment method is used to minimize trauma to the rhizome. If the transplant is carried out with the separation of children, then the incision sites must be sprinkled with powdered activated carbon and dried in air.

Be sure to add about two centimeters of drainage to the bottom of the new pot. For drainage, you can use expanded clay, pebbles, and small pieces of brick. A small layer of earth is poured onto the drainage. Clivia roots are carefully placed on top and gently sprinkled with soil. Care must be taken not to cover the growing point from which the leaves emerge. It is better if it rises slightly above the soil.

As a soil, you need to choose a light, loose mixture with a slightly acidic reaction. When making your own soil, it is recommended to take soil from the garden, peat and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1. To loosen the soil, you can add charcoal, vermiculite, and crushed tree bark. You can purchase a ready-made mixture at flower shops. For clivia, ready-made soil for orchids is suitable, in which the plant feels great.

How to care for clivia at home

Although the flower is not a capricious plant, when caring for clivia, a number of conditions must be observed. In terms of illumination, windows on the east and west sides are most suitable for it. There is not enough light on the north side, but there is a lot of sun on the south window in summer. You can place the flower on the south side, but be sure to provide shading from direct sunlight. Clivia feels good on the balcony.

In summer, a comfortable temperature for it is considered to be in the range of 20-25 degrees. But in hot summers it has to withstand higher air temperatures.

Watering and fertilizing

The Cape lily does not like excessive moisture, so excess water in the pot can lead to rotting of the roots. You can water the clivia after the soil in the pot has completely dried. The remaining water is poured out of the pan. The water must be settled, without chlorine. The temperature of the water for irrigation should be several degrees higher than the surrounding air. In winter, watering is reduced to twice a month.

Clivia leaves respond well to spraying, but it is necessary to ensure that water does not remain in the rosette of leaves, otherwise rotting may begin. Spraying can be replaced by wiping the leaves with a damp sponge.

The plant needs to be fed with fertilizers. It is better to take ready-made complex fertilizers, which are fertilized once every two weeks during the growth period. Mineral fertilizers can be alternated with organic ones. During the dormant period, stop feeding with fertilizers.

Important! Please note that nitrogen fertilizers promote the growth of green mass, and potassium fertilizers promote flowering. Therefore, in summer, fertilizing is chosen with a predominance of nitrogen fertilizers. After the flower stalk appears, feed the clivia with potassium fertilizers until the end of flowering.

Rest period

Clivia belongs to plants that need to create a dormant period. This refers to the intricacies of growing clivia at home. In September, stop feeding the plant and significantly reduce watering. The duration of the dormant period depends on the age of the flower. Young plants need rest for two months. The older the flower, the longer the dormancy should be.

In order for the plant to thank you with abundant flowering, it needs to provide temperature conditions during the dormant period. The temperature should be between 12-14 degrees Celsius. A short-term decrease to seven degrees is allowed. The dormant period ends with the appearance of the peduncle. Watering during the dormant period is reduced, watering only when wilting of the leaves is noticed.

Flowering period

After the peduncle appears, the pot is placed in a warm room with a temperature of about twenty degrees.

Important! The peduncle must grow to 10 cm before entering the heat.

To make clivia bloom at home, during the flowering period, increase watering and fertilize with potassium fertilizers.

Clivia flowering continues for a month, when faded buds are replaced by blossoming ones. After transferring to a warm place until the end of flowering, the pot must not be turned, much less rearranged. After flowering ends, watering is again reduced until active growth begins. The peduncle is cut off after complete drying.

Care errors

Even an experienced gardener can make mistakes in care, especially those related to watering and lighting. Externally, this is manifested by drying, rotting of the leaves and darkening of the tips. Also, flower growers often wonder why clivia does not bloom. We present the main causes and measures to eliminate the problems of growing clivia in the table.

Signs	Causes	Corrective Action
Leaves turn yellow and die	Natural process	-
	Excessive moisture	- Transplant the plant into new soil, removing rotten roots; - water in moderation.
	Lack of fertilizers	During flowering, it is necessary to feed with fertilizers twice a month.
	When growing seeds, the leaves turn yellow due to lack of nutrients, which are spent on seed ripening.	Remove fruit
	Disturbing the dormancy of a flower - replanting, moving or drafts	Move the pot only as a last resort
Brown spots on leaves	Sunburns	Remove the plant from direct sunlight, shade it with a curtain
Pale leaf color	Mineral deficiency	Fertilize with fertilizers
Leaves rot	Excessive watering. When spraying, stagnant water formed in the rosette of leaves.	Stop watering until the soil dries
Brown tips of leaves	Excess moisture	Reduce watering, remove water from the pan

Diseases and pests

Clivia is disease resistant and is sometimes attacked by scale insects and mealybugs.

View	Signs	Treatment
Scale insect (shield aphid)	Dark spots-growths on leaves	Wash the leaves with soap, soap and tobacco solution, then spray with insecticide. A 0.15% Actellik solution is recommended (dilute 1-2 ml of the product in a liter of water).
Mealybug	Resembles white cotton wool on leaves	Wipe the leaves with a damp soapy pad. If this method does not help, then it is necessary to treat the flower with an insecticide. Treat every week until cured.
Rot	The leaves turn yellow, the plant begins to die	The reason is rotting roots. Damaged roots are removed, and the sections must be sprinkled with activated carbon. The plant is transplanted into new soil.
Fungal diseases	Rusty stripes along the length of the sheet	Treat with fungicide according to instructions.

Reproduction

Propagation of Clivia at home is done in two ways - by children or seeds. It is easier to separate the children when transplanting an adult plant. With this method of propagation, you can get a flowering plant in the second or third year, if you do not make a mistake with the size of the pot. Otherwise, you will have to wait until the roots fill the pot.

Reproduction by children

Clivia babies at different stages of growth

Clivia propagation by children is carried out in the following order:

• When transplanting, the extracted roots are carefully separated with a sharp knife.
• All sections are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon and left to dry for half an hour.
• In the meantime, new pots are being prepared for the children and the adult plant.
• After planting, the pots with the children are placed in a warm, bright place, watered little by little

The procedure for growing clivia from seeds

Propagation by seeds will not give quick results. But if you wish, you can try to grow a clivia plantation. Seeds can be bought in specialized stores or obtained from your own specimen. To do this, pollinate the flowering plant with a brush. It is worth warning that growing seeds exhausts the plant, because the ripening of the pilaf lasts nine months until the fruits become red and soft.

• The collected seeds are sown immediately before they lose their viability.
• Dry seeds are soaked in water on a damp cloth for a day until they swell
• Prepare a container with an earthen mixture composed of:
  • peat and perlite with equal shares;
  • peat, sand and turf soil.
• Prepared seeds are planted at a distance of about two centimeters, slightly deeper into the ground.
• The box with seeds is covered with film or jars
• Ventilate the greenhouse daily for 10 minutes, moisturizing as needed.
• After the leaves have formed, they are transplanted (picked) into small pots with a mixture of humus, deciduous and clay soil in a ratio of 1:1:1
• Young seedlings need annual replanting

Seedlings from seeds begin to bloom after 4-6 years.

Conclusion

If you follow simple rules for caring for clivia, it will thank you with abundant annual flowering. Watching a flowering plant on winter days brings great joy and lifts your spirits.