Connection hob to the power grid. Types of connections to single- and three-phase networks, through sockets and through a terminal, electrical and gas models. +TEST for self-checking the readiness of the installation.
TEST:
Take the mini test:- What should be the thickness of the cable in a single-phase network?
a) 2.5 millimeters
b) 4 millimeters
c) 6 millimeters
d) 10 millimeters
- At what distance should the gas cylinder be located from the arched panel?
a) 70 centimeters
b) 100 centimeters
c) 150 centimeters
b) 50 centimeters
c) 90 centimeters
d) 200 centimeters
- What should be the power of the machine in a three-phase network?
a) 16 amperes
b) 25 amperes
c) 32 amperes
d) 40 amperes
Answers:
Installing a hob (VP) into a countertop in two ways
First, you should find out the dimensions of the installed devices. This is done using a tape measure. Then markings corresponding to the parameters of the panel are applied to the tabletop. Holes are made in the corners with a drill so that it is possible to insert a saw jigsaw. Then a hole of the required size is cut with a jigsaw.
You can only saw through wooden tabletops yourself. To cut stone countertops, you should contact a professional or immediately order a countertop with the required hole.
The cut edges of the tabletop should be processed sealant. It will protect the tabletop from swelling and water and dirt from getting under the panel.
To seal the edge of the tabletop, use aluminum tape. It will perfectly protect the surface of the countertop from strong temperature changes.
There are differences in installation methods for gas and electric hob .
Connecting the electrical panel yourself
Electrical panels are highly reliable and durable. In the event of a breakdown, it can be easily detached and sent for repair.
Look at the picture below – important role plays when installing correct connection wires On the reverse side there is a diagram for connecting to the network.
Most often, its installation does not require a plug and socket - directly from the panel there is a wire. You need to connect this wire correctly and place the panel in its intended place.
correct wire connectionDo-it-yourself installation of a gas panel in a countertop
Connection to gas is carried out using a flexible hose, intended for gas supply. Do not connect it directly to the valve. There should be a fitting between the hose and the valve.
Before connecting the hose, you need to wrap flax around the threads. Then, to seal, the flax is coated with a special paste.
Then a plumbing corner is attached to the panel. For a tight fit, you need to insert a gasket. Screwed to the corner hose. The junction is wrapped with flax.
Fastenings are screwed to the back of the panel using self-tapping screws. planks. The panel is installed in the hole as in the figure below and is firmly fixed to the tabletop using fasteners.
Installation of the stove Connecting a gas VP to a 50 liter cylinder
It is worth considering that slabs, manufactured for operation on main gas are equipped with jets (i.e. nozzles) that are not suitable for cylinders. The nozzle is shaped like a bolt, with a hole made in it through which gas flows to the stove. Smaller jets are used on cylinders because propane pressure is much higher than that of natural gas.
Jet
It is necessary to decide on the installation location of the devices, because... For safety reasons, they are required to be at least 100 centimeters apart from each other. Also in the room in which it is connected gas equipment, there must be a window.
If the cylinder is shielded, then the distance can be reduced to 50 centimeters.
It is advisable that balloon placed in a special cabinet. You can place it in the pantry, but you need to make a hole in the wall for the hose. The best option, when the cylinder is located outside, in a special metal box that is locked with a key.
The cylinder was placed in a special cabinet How to connect gas hose to panel:
- Union connects to the panel pipe. It is allowed to use FUM tape to seal the connection.
- TO fitting hose is connected. The nut on the fitting is screwed all the way.
- TO balloon the gearbox is attached. It is fixed with an adapter. The connection is wrapped with FUM tape.
- Hose connects to the gearbox and is tightly secured using a clamp.
Should be applied to joints soap solution to make sure the connection is tight. If soap bubbles begin to appear when gas is supplied, this means there is a leak in that location. The structure needs to be disassembled and reassembled.
Please remember that the connection gas stoves considered difficult technological process. It should be carried out by professionals. For unauthorized installation and connection of a gas hob, a fine of 15,000 rubles is provided, according to Article 7.19 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation.
Gearbox installation Which gas hose to choose for connection: 3 options
There are three types hoses, used today to connect gas hobs.
Rubber-fabric
It has good performance because of the low price, good electrical insulation, excellent flexibility and ease of installation. It is represented by many specimens, varying in length and diameter. Main disadvantage consists of low rigidity. But the materials from which it is made make it possible to use it for 5 – 10 years.
Rubber reinforced
Rubber is subjected to vulcanization. Its main advantages are low price, high strength because of the sewn textile thread and ease of installation. Holds up well high temperature up to 50 degrees.
Rubber reinforced Metal bellows.
The best choice, based on reviews from most gas workers. Very easy to connect to stove, boiler or arched panel. Has the longest service life - 25 years.
If the stove has an electric ignition function, then between the hose and gas tap an insulating connection must be made.
Metal bellows. Withstands large temperature changes - from -50 to 200 C. Withstands pressure of 6 atmospheres. Bends well in all directions. There are ordinary hoses with a surface made of of stainless steel and hoses with polymer coating. The latter are protected from corrosion and acids.
Connecting the hob to the electrical network 3 wires
The most common question that arises when installing a panel is how to connect it to a 220V network. Majority cooking devices have six terminals: three phases - they are marked with the letter L - L1, L2 and L3; two zeros (or as they are also called - neutrals) N1 and N2; one grounding – PE. To connect a three-wire cable jumpers will be required.
Often phase the wire is painted brown or red, neutral is blue, grounding is yellow-green.
The picture below shows a standard diagram for connecting contacts to wires. For standard panels, the terminal block is located on the back of the mechanism. The block is closed with a metal or plastic cover. After removing this cover, the contacts become visible. A jumper is taken and connects all three phases L1-L2-L3 in series. Neutrals N1-N2 are connected in the same way. In popular device models, jumpers are included.
Standard diagram for connecting contacts to wires If there are no jumpers, they are replaced copper wire with a cross section of 6 millimeters. For ease of connection, you can use ring or fork lugs.
Each vein cable connects to one of the contacts as shown in the figure. The phase is connected to the socket on the right or left side, but must correspond to the routing of the wires. If you confuse phase and zero when connecting the hob, a short circuit and burnout of the device may occur.
How to connect the hob to the mains. Installation and connection of the hob
Connecting VP Electrolux to the power supply 4 wires
Certain models of technology, such as Gorenje or Electrolux, come with four wires. This is grounding, zero and two phases. Phase wires are painted brown and black, neutral and ground are painted blue and yellow-green.
Connecting the Electrolux hob to the mains 4 wires As in the situation with a three-core wire, first remove lid, under which the contacts are hidden. Near the ground contact there is a jumper with two inputs. This jumper connects the phase outputs L1 and L2. The contacts are tightened tightly. When connecting a plug, only one is used phase wire, and the second one is isolated. Connection procedure zero And grounding the same as in the situation with a three-wire wire.
3 phase panel connection
A cable with five cores with a section thickness of 2.5 millimeters is taken. The third phase is marked gray. A jumper is only required to connect neutrals N1-N2. A separate phase wire is connected to each phase. The plug in three-phase wires leads the neutral to the top pin, the ground to the bottom, and the phases are located in the middle.
Five core cable It is worth noting that wire markings may vary. Not only must the wires not be mixed up when connecting to the plug, but they must also match the correct connectors in the outlet
Two-phase panel connection
Look at the picture below - shown scheme connecting a panel in a private house when there are 2 phases in the network at once. A jumper connects two phases L1-L2 and two zeros N1-N2. One phase wire is attached to the jumper, the second phase wire is connected to contact L3. The zero is attached to the jumper, the ground to the PE contact.
Two-phase panel connection Connecting an induction panel instead of a Vyatka electric stove to a 16 amp outlet
The induction hob is equipped with a cord and plug with a fork and plugs into a household outlet. But in such a situation, it is necessary to select the right socket for the operation of the device. Often the panel is connected to sockets that are not designed for such loads.
Before you start using it, you should find out which maximum power consumes an electrical appliance. This information is indicated in the device passport or its instructions.
Plug The socket is designed to operate electrical devices with a power not exceeding 3.5 kW and a corresponding current of 16 amperes. Electric stoves "Vyatka" have this power. If the power of the hob does not exceed this indicator, then it can be connected to a replacement outlet old stove. Installation induction panel It is possible to do it yourself if you have knowledge in electrical engineering.
What wire is needed to connect a 7 kW panel
The hob is considered the largest consumer of electricity in most houses and apartments (about 7 kW), so you need to approach the choice of cable cross-section with all responsibility.
A single-phase network uses a three-core cable with a cross-sectional thickness of 6 millimeters.
A three-phase network uses a five-core cable with a cross-sectional thickness of 2.5 millimeters.
Look at the picture. Why exactly these indicators are used for work can be seen in the table below. The principle of choosing one cable or another does not differ from the trends in choosing wiring for the rest of the apartment. The only difference is that the calculation is made on increased level electricity consumption.
Connecting VP through a machine in a network of 220 and 380 volts
When connecting the device, you will need to lay a separate line. Most often the line is laid in a groove, but it is also often used box or corrugated hose For this line, only copper wires are allowed.
Immediately after the line exits the meter, it is placed machine, That is mandatory requirement. For additional security device is installed protective shutdown – RCD. The operation of these devices will cut off the power supply when the network is overloaded and in the event of an insulation failure.
In a single-phase network, a 32 ampere circuit breaker is installed, RCD set to 40 amperes.
In a three-phase network, a 16 ampere circuit breaker is installed, RCD set to 25 amperes.
They are connected by wires with the same cross-section as used in the networks– 6 millimeters for a 220V network, 2.5 millimeters for a 380V network.
Connecting the machine and RCD Connecting the panel to the mains via a 10 amp outlet
Power sockets are made of special plastic and can withstand currents exceeding 10 amperes. Sometimes they are equipped protective cover. When choosing this type sockets are guided by the rule that their rated current no more than the current of the machine.
Fork more convenient option for operating the cooking device.
There is no single standard defining the type and order of pin placement. The main thing is that the characteristics and number of contacts match. The figure below shows the most suitable places to place sockets in the kitchen.
Look at the picture below for the location sockets regarding the burners and oven. The socket is installed at any convenient height, but the recommended distance from the floor is 90 centimeters. Do not place the socket above the heating surface. It is better to place it half a meter in any direction from the burners. When installing an oven, you should install the socket below the oven, but above the floor level. Otherwise, there is a risk of flooding.
Connecting the panel via the terminal box
Sometimes the panel is connected without a plug and sockets Connect the wire from the cooking device on one side and the power cable on the other in the terminal box. The method of connecting the panel via a terminal block is more reliable, but has certain inconveniences. It is possible to disconnect the stove from power only through shield
The connection of wires inside such terminal blocks is carried out according to a simple principle - the stripped end of the wire is inserted into a special socket, and it is pressed from above with a plate secured with a screw.
Answers to 5 Frequently Asked Questions
What should I do if the burners do not work when connected?
You need to make sure that the fuses are located in operating mode and the panel has been connected correctly.
Why does the hob shock?
The ground connection must be checked. Probably the reason is old wiring, or only one phase was installed. You should check the compatibility of the wires with the stove.
Why does the gas panel make strange sounds?
Liquid may have gotten inside the housing. Once on the contacts, a short circuit occurs. The switch produces a spark and it makes this sound. The panels should be allowed to dry thoroughly.
Why does gas not flow to the burner in a gas hob?
First you need to check gas pipe. If everything is fine with it, you should check the injectors. Very often they become clogged with fat during cooking. It is enough to clean them of dirt and wipe dry.
What is the main reason for induction cooker malfunctions?
According to statistics, 90% of problems induction cookers associated with using the wrong utensils. You need to carefully study the section of the instructions related to the indication of the required utensils.
When connecting a hob, you may encounter problems that make not only the average user, but also an experienced electrician think:
- which cable to choose for installing electrical wiring from the panel to the hob
- how to connect the panel in the electrical panel
- how to connect 4 wires coming out of the stove and 3 wires of the electrical wiring power cable
- how to connect correctly and not mix up the cable cores on the terminal block
Electrical cable for connection
First of all, understand that the hob must be connected with a separate electrical wiring line directly from the switchboard. It is not allowed to power it from an existing common distribution box in the kitchen or from already installed sockets.
The cable must be three-core and copper, and it’s up to you to decide which brand VVGnG-Ls or NYM. Which cable is better and how they differ can be read in detail in the article “4 differences between NYM and VVGnG-Ls”.
The most important thing is to choose the right section. The set of rules SP31-110-2003, compiled on the basis of GOST and PUE, states that for slabs it is necessary to select a cross-section of at least 6mm2. 
But apparently here we're talking about O pre-installation wiring in the apartment, when it is not yet known what power the hob will be installed. Therefore, initially a cross-section of 6 mm2 should be provided, sufficient to connect most existing models.
If your power is less than 7 kW, and you are sure that in the future you will not buy a new, more energy-intensive stove, then you can use the following table as a guide: 
What should you do if the cable has already been laid (VVGng-Ls 3*2.5mm2), but it turns out to have a smaller cross-section than needed for the maximum possible power of the hob (7.2 kW). At the same time, there is neither the opportunity nor the desire to re-drill the walls.
In this case, you can protect yourself in two ways, although you will have to come to terms with the fact that you will not be able to use the full power of the panel:
- install a switch in the panel based on the nominal cross-section of the cable, and not the power of the stove (see the table above, according to the cross-section)
- programmatically set the panel operating mode in which it will not be possible to turn on all burners at the same time
That is, if you don’t yet know what kind of hob you will have, feel free to use 6mm2. Just keep in mind that low-power panels have small size terminal blocks not designed for 6mm2. And it is not always convenient to connect such a wire directly; you can break the clamp.
Connecting an induction hob in the panel
A prerequisite for installing a hob and oven is to connect these devices through an RCD + automatic circuit breaker, or a differential circuit breaker with a leakage current of 30 mA. 
Simple circuit breakers will not provide protection in the event of insulation damage and leakage to the housing.
- Neutral conductor (choose a blue wire) - to the terminal below, marked with Latin letter N
- Vein of yellow-green color ( protective grounding) to the grounding bus
Socket and plug for hob
If you do not intend to run the cable directly into the panel, then you will have to install a separate outlet under it.
For example, when wet cleaning the panel must be de-energized. If you don’t have an outlet, you’ll have to run to the panel twice and turn off the machine. And so I pulled out the plug, wiped the surface and plugged it back in.Using a fork is a more convenient option when it comes to maintaining and operating the hob.
The socket should be installed at a convenient height. The recommended distance from the floor is up to 90cm. 
In this case, it is not allowed for the socket box to be on the same level as the hob. It would be best to place it to the right or left of the device. 
If you want to install an oven nearby, the socket should be located below the oven level. Usually this distance is at the level of the kitchen legs. 
It is also impossible to do it too close to the floor, keep in mind the possibility of flooding and water supply leaks! 
Which socket should I take? With a low-power panel up to 3.5 kW (usually two-burner), everything can be connected via a Euro socket and a corresponding plug.
However, it will constantly operate at its rated power of 16A and most likely get very hot.
In addition, if you initially took a 3*6mm2 cable, then connecting it to the plug contacts will be a big problem. Therefore, it is preferable to use a special plug and socket for stoves, designed for currents up to 40A. 
If you have induction hob with a power of more than 3.5 kW, then connecting through a regular plug and socket is even more prohibited!
The location of the phase and neutral wires in the socket does not play a significant role. The main thing is to connect the grounding conductor correctly (on top of the grounding contact). 
But when connecting the plug, it is advisable to observe the “polarity”. It’s not for nothing that manufacturers mark the terminals where phase and neutral should go. But even if you mix it up, the panel should still work properly. 
To connect the plug you will need a wire. It is not always included. If you don’t have a standard one, you need to purchase a three-core PVS wire. The wire cross-section must correspond to the power of the device (see table above).
Disassemble the plug body and pass the wire through it. Remove the insulation from the outer shell to such a length that its edge, after assembling the plug, is pressed down with a special clamp.
You strip the cores and, to ensure better contact, crimp them with an NShV tip. 
Tighten the screw connectors of the plug:
The big inconvenience of such models is that they “stick out” very much from the wall - by 5-7cm. 
Take this point into account when assembling the kitchen in advance.
Connecting a panel without a plug
If a socket protruding a few centimeters does not suit you and you want to carefully hide everything in a socket box or junction box, then you can do this in two ways:
- through GML sleeves
- through the mounting box KlK-5S
First, let's decide on the wires. On many models, a connected cable already comes out of the panel, but it has 4 cores. And you only have three in your socket. What should I do? 
The fact is that such hobs are simultaneously designed for both a single-phase 220V connection and a two-phase 380V connection. In this case, one half of the burners will operate from one phase 220V, and the other from the second. 
Some people believe that the second phase is only used for control power. This is wrong. Power is distributed evenly across both phases. To connect the whole thing to the usual 220 Volts, simply remove one core to the side and insulate it.
What remains is zero (usually a blue wire), ground (yellow-green) and phase (brown, black or another color).
You can combine two phase wires into one through a lug. For example, in many Bosch panels, where the cable is coming not removable, that’s how it was originally made. 
There is also an option with a 5-core cable. Such panels are usually of high power from 7 kW and above. They are initially designed for 380V. To connect them to a 220V network, you need to connect two wires in pairs. 
For example, connect the black and brown wires to phase, and the blue and gray wires to zero. The earth yellow-green remains single.
But if you strictly follow the rules, then such a connection is not entirely correct. Because protective conductor PE must be of the same cross-section as the phase ones. And yours will be twice as thin.
Connection with sleeves
Now you need to connect the wiring in the socket box with the cable going to the panel. Select GML sleeves that correspond to the cross-section of the cores. 
If the sections of the cores are different, for example, 6mm2 comes out of the wall, and 4mm2 goes to the panel, then on one side (smaller) the sleeve is sealed with an additional wire. 
After which the ends are pressed in with press pliers and insulated with electrical tape or thermal tube. 
Now all this can be neatly hidden in the socket box.
Connection via junction box
Sleeving is inconvenient because, firstly, the connection is not dismountable, and secondly, crimping requires a special tool. Not everyone has a press, and you cannot crimp such connections with pliers.
In this case, the KlK-5S mounting box will come to the rescue. Apart from a screwdriver, you don’t need anything here, and the outgoing cable can be disconnected at any time. 
True, its contacts can be quite delicate, so do not overdo it with the tightening force. 
Besides, dimensions Unlike powerful sockets, it has small sockets and the whole thing can be conveniently mounted behind kitchen cabinets.
The connection is made traditionally:
- zero via screw terminal N (blue wires)
- the ground is indicated by the “grounding” icon - yellow-green conductor
- There are three phase connectors on top. If you have 220V, remove the extra phases and isolate them.
Induction hob connection diagrams
After all the work has been completed, you can begin directly connecting the cable to the terminals of the hob. On the back of the panel there should be a sticker, drawing or graphic designation factory connection diagram.
For a single-phase network, choose a circuit that is most often designated as 1N. 
According to this diagram, terminals numbered 1,2,3 and terminals 4,5 must be connected to each other by jumpers. 
Such jumpers made of copper or brass should be included with the hob. Usually they are located in a separate “pocket”, in the same place as the terminals. 
If you do not install these shunts, then only part of the hob will heat up.
Often, the same problem can arise during operation when, due to poor contact and heating, one of the jumpers burns out.
Before connecting, with PVS wires The insulation is removed and the conductors are crimped. Here you can use tips NShV, NKI, NSHP. Before installation, check whether there is enough free space in the terminal box for mounting certain lugs. 
Sometimes you have to shorten them, or abandon some type altogether.
First, jumpers are installed. According to the diagram for a single-phase hob, mount them on terminals 1-2-3. 
After this, connect the phase conductor to terminal No. 3 and tighten the contacts. 
To connect zero, install a jumper between the fourth and fifth terminals. 
Insert the blue neutral wire into terminal No. 5 and tighten the contact. 
The last one free core- connect the protective grounding to the connector with the “grounding” symbol. 
Here are some connection diagrams for different models hobs Bosch, Electrolux, Zanussi, Hansa, Gorenje:
If, after connecting, the panel starts to work in an unknown way - it turns itself off, and after a few seconds it can turn on again. Do not rush to commit incorrect installation.
It is quite possible that the child lock is set in the program, water was spilled on the sensors, or the wrong buttons were accidentally pressed. Some models have a dish recognition function. Until you place the pan on the burner, it will not heat up. 
Another common problem is that only two of the four burners work, and the rest show residual heat (the letter H is displayed). This is due to blocking during single-phase connection of three-phase models.
This way the power is limited by software.
Therefore, first thoroughly understand the documentation and only then go back to the connection terminal block.
Five common mistakes that can lead to failure of your panel or fire due to improper installation and connection:
1 Use a regular Euro socket and 16A plug for panels with a power of more than 3.5 kW.
Hints and tips. How to properly connect a hob and remote oven Electrolux, Zanussi, Bosch, AEG, Hansa, Samsung. Instructions for connecting the hob (surface) and built-in oven
GENERAL INFORMATION
If you bought a separate built-in oven, then you just need to look carefully electrical characteristics cabinet and install a socket to connect it. If the power consumed by the cabinet is about 3-3.5 kW, then the maximum current consumption (required current) will be about 16 amperes. With higher power, you need to count on a current consumption of about 32 amperes.
The socket for the cabinet (Euro standard) must be designed for exactly this current. If your kitchen has old wiring, then to connect the oven to it you should draw a new electrical wiring line with a copper wire with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm2 at 16 ampere and 4.0 mm2 at 32 ampere.
Modern built-in appliances have a Euro plug (Euro standard plug):
Ovens require less current (measured in amperes) if you have old wiring in your house and circuit breakers in the distribution panel in the entrance (special room, electrical panel, just next to electric meter etc.) - then in order to avoid tripping the machine - you should install 3-wire new wiring (ground, zero, phase) - in such cases you need to invite an electrician from the power supply - in order to avoid breakdowns of their equipment.
If you have no problems with wiring and your house (apartment) is relatively new, then you probably have Euro sockets at home. In the kitchen, these sockets are designed according to GOST for electric heating appliances (kettles, boilers, ovens, etc.)
The oven should come with a Euro plug (a cord with a plug at the end), most often it is already connected (Hansa, LG, Samsung, etc.). Quite directly - without any extension cords or network filters, plug the plug into the socket and warm up the cabinet at 180 degrees for 30 minutes - first remove all plastic parts and metal trays, packaging items (tape, paper, cardboard, polystyrene foam). Will burn out factory paint, polishing - at first it all smells unpleasant. If you don’t see any problems with electricity or the oven -everything was done correctly!
Cooking surfaces must be connected to special socket with grounding current (32-40A), wire cross-section (3 copper or aluminum conductors) of at least 4 mm². IN modern apartments these standards are observed, the only difference is that there are
- three-core wire or three-pin socket (single-phase connection)
- four-wire wire or four-pin socket (two-phase connection)
If there is just a wire coming from your hob without a plug, then look at the number of wires. If there are 3 wires in the wall and four on the hob, then this means that your stove needs a 2-phase connection, but your apartment has a single-phase one. Do this: 2 wires from the hob, black and brown, this is the phase; they should be twisted or connected together and connected to the phase (usually a white, brown or black wire from the wall), the yellow-green wire is “ground”, blue is “zero” ".
It is difficult to check if the wires from the wall are all the same color; you can easily distinguish only the phase using an indicator screwdriver or a tester. Always disassemble the socket under the stove, because... The wires may not match and assemble the plug and socket according to their location
They must definitely match! “Phase” to “phase”, “zero to zero” and “ground” to “ground”!
Be careful: sometimes houses have 380 V outlets, but hobs only require 220 V!
Connect the oven To electrical panel follows through a separate circuit breaker for 25 amperes with a 16 ampere outlet and 40 amperes with a 32 ampere outlet. To ground the oven body, in an apartment with a three-wire wiring, you should use a separate grounding conductor (in green-yellow insulation), which is connected to a separate grounding terminal of the socket. The power cable (cord) of the oven already contains a grounding bus with a contact attached to the oven body (as well as connected to the plug).
If the grounding bus is in your apartment electrical wiring no (two-wire wiring) - it is necessary to organize a separate grounding line leading to the access power cabinet
You can connect the hob yourself, there is nothing complicated about it. All you need to do with one end of the cable included with your purchase is to shape it into a plug, which serves to connect the panel to the network. If the network in your apartment is two-wire, then only two wires should be connected to the plug, phase and neutral, the third wire (grounding) can be left free (isolated). With a 3-wire network, the third wire is connected to the special (grounding) pin of the plug. In order to determine which wire is phase, which is neutral, and which is grounding, you must first understand the other end of this cable, which is used to connect to the panel terminal block.
The instructions include a diagram for connecting the power supply to the stove. The first 3 terminals with jumpers are the phase contact (L1), we connect the “phase” (brown) wire to it. The next 2 jumper terminals are neutral (N). We connect the blue wire here (without “phase”). The purpose of the sixth terminal (PE) is immediately clear - it is a protective grounding contact. We connect the green-yellow grounding wire to it - with a 2-wire network we leave this wire free on the side of the plug (options for single-phase - 1N, 2-phase - 2N and 3-phase - 3N connections are given).
The electrical power consumed by the hob can be about 3 kW, and the product is equipped with a 16-amp Euro plug. We will also install the socket under the surface for a calculated maximum current of 16 A. Naturally, the socket must be of the “Euro” design. If your stove is designed for high power, you should select a design current of 32 amperes and install an outlet designed for this current.
The most effective option Connecting the hob can be considered a direct connection of the supply cable to its terminal block. In this case, you can do without a plug or socket, and therefore increase the reliability of the circuit due to the elimination of unnecessary contacts (since contacts are the most weakness in electrical circuits). In this case, turning the hob on and off can be done directly from the control panel.
If the wiring in your kitchen is old, then you need to install a new electrical wiring line specifically for the hob. The line is mounted with copper wire with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm2 for low power and 4.0 mm2 for high power. Such a line is connected to a separate circuit breaker respectively at 25 amperes or 40 amperes.
Help on the limit permissible current for different sections (diameters) of conductors (approximate data):
For copper (aluminum) 1.5 mm2 is a diameter of 1.4 mm, max. current - 19 (15) A;
2.5mm2 is a diameter of 1.8mm, max. current - 27 (24) A;
4.0mm2 is 2.2mm diameter, max. current - 36 (32) A;
6.0 mm2 is a diameter of 2.8 mm, maximum current 46 (39) A.
Instructions for connecting the hob (surface) and built-in oven
1. Before connecting the oven and hob, carefully read technical characteristics and main design features.
2. There are two types of hobs:
- connected, which is controlled by means of handles placed on the electric oven,
- unconnected, which is equipped with a separate power supply and its own control.
3. Analyze the kitchen power supply; its power should be enough to connect appliances and be autonomous. If the power supply parameters do not match the required ones, then an additional cable will be required.
4. When installing electrical wiring for electric oven and hob, use Consumables taking into account that the oven is designed (on average) to consume 2-3 kW of electricity, and the hob will consume up to 7 kW. Therefore, to ensure complete safety during subsequent operation of the devices, lay electrical wire cross-section of at least 4 mm for the hob and 1-2.5 mm for the oven.
5. Be sure to ground the devices, which will guarantee safe, stable and uninterrupted operation.
6. As a rule, the hob, unlike an electric oven, is designed for a 1-2-3-phase connection to the electrical network, which is due to the high energy consumption of the panel. Therefore, carefully study the passport data before installing both devices, since the features of the electrical supply depend on their class.
EXAMPLE:
If your hob has a cable with four wires (cores), and a 3-wire wire sticks out of the wall or there is a socket with 3 terminals, then this means that your stove needs a 2-phase connection, but you have one in your apartment -phase. The black and brown wires are the phase; they should be twisted together and connected to the phase (usually a white or black wire from the wall), the rest yellow-green is “ground”, blue is “zero”
7. Plug the unconnected panel and oven into different pre-installed outlets.
Bosch hobs, both gas and electric, have proven themselves in modern kitchens. In order for the panel to serve for a long time and regularly please its owners, it must be connected correctly. It is better to entrust commissioning of a gas hob to a specialist gas service so as not to endanger the life and health of those nearby. If your choice is an electric stove, then, having minimal skills in working with a screwdriver, you can handle connecting a Bosch hob yourself. The recommendations in this article will help you.
Owners of Bosch panels are pleased to note the advantages of their purchase:
- reliability,
- high functionality;
- safety;
- efficiency;
- ease of use;
- ease of maintaining cleanliness;
- beauty and elegance.
Therefore, if you connect such a panel correctly, you will use it for a long time and with pleasure!
Preparing furniture for a built-in hob
Most often, a hole in the countertop for the stove is cut out during manufacture. kitchen set. But if you need to prepare the furniture yourself, don't be embarrassed. Any person who knows how to hold a jigsaw can handle this job.
Marking a niche for the hob must be done, taking into account that there should be at least 50 mm from its edge to the contour of the tabletop. Holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled at the corners of the markings. Using an electric jigsaw with a fine-toothed wood file, lines are carefully cut from one hole to another. The jigsaw must be pressed firmly against the tabletop.
The edges of the cut niche need handle silicone sealant . After this, fasteners-clamps are screwed to the sections. Having prepared the furniture, you can start connecting the electricity.
Electrical Wiring Requirements
The electric hob must be connected to dedicated outlet with sufficient grounding level. For such an outlet, you will have to draw a separate branch from the panel and be sure to connect it to a separate 32 A circuit breaker. The cable laid to the outlet must be copper with a conductor cross-section of at least 4 mm². Depending on the type of outlet chosen, the cable can be three or four wires.
How to choose a socket?
How to connect the hob to the electrical network of your home? For this it is important to choose the right
- socket;
- fork;
- cable.
Electricity in your apartment is one phase and 220 volt input? Then you need a socket and plug with three pins.
You have purchased equipment for the kitchen of a modern private house with two phases and electrical input 380 volts? Then, to distribute the load evenly, it is better to connect the hob to two phases. This uses a socket and plug with four pins.
In the first case, the blue wire (zero) is connected to the left contact, black or brown (phase) to the right. The green/yellow ground wire is attached to a terminal located usually below or above the main pair.
In case of connection four-pin socket you need to be guided by the markings of the wires on the socket cover. Be careful! Sockets various manufacturers differ in their design.
Important! It is necessary to check in advance that the presence of the phase matches the colors of the wire. A tester is used for this.
How to connect the cable to the panel?
Regardless of which outlet you have to install, the cable to connect to the hob must be four-wire. The cable cores are connected to the terminals of the electrical connector box, which is located on the back of the plate. Remove the cover from the box after unscrewing the bolts.
Each hob has a diagram for connecting it to electrical network. Contacts are marked on it terminal box. Take a good look wiring diagram. Phase (brown and black wires), neutral (blue wire) and ground (yellow-green) must each be connected to its own terminal strictly according to the drawing. Pay attention to the careful connection of the wire core to the terminal contact.
Important! Double-check that the wires are positioned correctly before closing the cover.
Connecting the plug to the cable
With a four-pin plug everything is clear. The marked colored cable cores are connected according to the instructions on the plug cover, corresponding to the contacts of the socket. But what about three-pin socket, when four wires need to be connected to three contacts? To do this, two phases (black and brown wires) need to be twisted together and connected to the “phase” contact.
Without plug and socket
Sometimes the hob connected directly to an electrical circuit, without plug and socket. This is possible because the panel is stationary equipment and the need to connect and disconnect the stove appears extremely rarely. However, the ability to turn off the stove at any time for its maintenance or repair, rearrangement or replacement kitchen furniture, may be useful. In addition, connecting using a plug and socket is safe, convenient and beautiful.
Reinstalling the panel
The electrical part of the work is completed. It's time to put the panel in place. You need to carefully turn the slab over and install it on the previously prepared fasteners. The bottom of the hob is secured with bolts supplied in the kit. Now you can carry out tests.
Attention! Due to the high cost of the device and the dangers that electricity poses, to avoid injuries and unnecessary breakdowns, assess your capabilities correctly. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the connection of the panel to a professional electrician.
Popular attribute modern kitchen- built-in hob and oven. IN lately More and more consumers are giving preference to electric models, which functionality superior to gas analogues. Install household appliances it will be done by hand. The main thing is to correctly calculate the installation space and take care of high-quality wiring that can withstand the high loads of the power line.
Electrical wiring requirements when connecting kitchen appliances
Before installing the oven or hob, you should pay attention Special attention quality of electrical wiring. Key points to consider:
Important! Grounding of the electrical appliance ensures safe operation devices.
Installation and commissioning of the hob
Preparing the installation site
To insert a panel into kitchen countertop You will need the following tools:
- electric drill;
- screwdriver;
- electric jigsaw;
- construction knife;
- Ruler and pencil;
- silicone sealant.
Do-it-yourself installation of an electric hob is carried out in the following order:
Further actions are to install the surface in the prepared hole and connect the equipment to the power line according to the diagram.
For reference. Detailed diagram connections shown with reverse side electric hob (burner, built-in).
Diagram and choice of connection method
Commissioning diagrams kitchen panels and ovens in apartment buildings assume the use of one phase - a 220V network. In the private sector, it is sometimes advisable to arrange three-phase network- such a connection redistributes the load when several burners are operating into 3 phases.
Symbols on the diagram:
- 1L, 2L, 3L - phases;
- N - neutral conductor;
- earth code or PE - grounding of an electrical appliance.
The hob is connected to the power supply in one of the following ways: through a socket/power plug or using a terminal box.
With the first option, you need to choose the socket and plug wisely. A stove power of 7-8 kW corresponds to a current of 32-38 A. The plug must support wiring with a cross-section of 4-6 mm2. Often, the RSh/VSh-32 connector is used to connect the hob. A similar connection is applicable in one-, two- and three-phase networks.
Advice. It is advisable to use ready set, since the plug of one manufacturer may not fit the socket of another.
It is better to give preference to whites plastic models- they are of higher quality compared to black carbolite ones. Structurally, the elements are no different; the connection order is the same.
Connection via a terminal is considered by many to be simpler and more reliable. There are several pairs of contacts and screw fasteners located on a plate made of heat-resistant plastic. The wires are connected from two opposite sides, observing color coding. Terminal blocks are selected according to the power of the electrical appliance.
Instructions for connecting the hob
Commissioning of the electrical panel through the terminal box depends on the number of network phases. If a three-core wire is laid, then a 1-phase connection diagram is used:
- Connect terminals No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 with copper jumpers; connect a phase wire (black, white or brown) to them;
- connect the zeros (No. 4 and No. 5) to the neutral (blue) wire;
- Connect the corresponding yellow-green wire to the PE (ground) terminal.
A two-phase connection uses four wires. Their connection is carried out according to the following scheme:
- connect wires No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper, connect a phase conductor to them;
- connect the second phase conductor to terminal No. 3;
- connect terminals No. 4 and No. 5 with a jumper, then connect the neutral conductor to them;
- secure the ground wire.
A five-core cable is used for a three-phase connection. In this case, connect terminals No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 with three phase conductors; the subsequent procedure is similar to the previous one.
Algorithm for connecting a power plug to a kitchen hob:
- Disassemble the plug by unscrewing the fixing screw.
- Route the cable into the connector mechanism and secure it with staples.
- Remove 1-1.5 cm of insulation from the wires and strip the wires.
- Secure the wires to the plug terminals according to the diagram. The conductor cores must not extend beyond the terminals.
- Assemble the fork body and tighten the screw.
Connecting an electric hob with your own hands: video
Types of built-in cabinets by installation method
Based on the installation method, built-in ovens are divided into dependent and independent. Functionally, they do not differ from each other, but the installation technology is somewhat different.
Dependent Models supplied as one set with the hob. The work areas are connected by wires and have a single control panel, which is usually located on the front of the oven. Dependent cabinets They are compact, which is especially important for small kitchens. However, when purchasing, you must take into account that if the control panel fails, both devices will stop working.
Independent have the ability to be installed separately from the hob. This device can be placed anywhere in the kitchen.
Distinctive features of independent models:
- unlimited choice of location for installing the oven;
- possibility to refuse the hob - modern models ovens are equipped with functions of steaming, defrosting, etc.;
- high cost of equipment.
Procedure for installing and connecting the oven
Calculation of the dimensions of the “box” for the oven
Manufacturers kitchen appliances We have developed a unified standard that allows you to easily install the oven body in the designated section of the cabinet. The main thing during installation is to adjust the evenness of the oven. Minor distortions can reduce the heating efficiency. Leveling is done by adjusting the height of the legs; a building level is used for control.
To protect the device from overheating and premature failure during installation, a number of nuances should be taken into account:
- the optimal distance from the base of the body to the floor is 8 cm, but not less than 5 cm;
- air gap around the perimeter of the oven - 5 cm;
- distance to the back wall - 4 cm.
Important! Brass connection electrical cabinet through an extension cord is prohibited. A separate outlet must be provided.
Installation and connection to the electrical network
After preparing the place and “trying on” the oven for installation, you can begin connecting to the electrical network. If the power of the stove does not exceed 3.5 kW, then it can be connected through a regular outlet. Otherwise, you will have to pay more attention to the new wiring and the choice of outlet.
Connection order:
Electric hob: DIY repair
The most common malfunction of an electrical panel is that the device does not heat up or one of the burners does not work. In this case, troubleshooting yourself comes down to the following steps:
- Check the voltage at the outlet. Often it is this electrical point that fails.
- Inspect the plug and cord. When found mechanical damage just replace the plug.
- If the previous steps did not solve the problem, you will have to remove the hob. First you need to disconnect the wires and unscrew the fastening strips.
- Check the functionality of the transformer and thermal fuse. For this you will need a multimeter. If there is no voltage or if it differs from the nominal voltage, install new elements.
- Check the reliability of the wiring connections at all points: switches, control unit, burners or thermostat.
Advice. An affordable alternative to a multimeter is an indicator screwdriver.
The most common causes of breakdown of a 2-, 3- and 4-burner electric hob:
- fuse blown due to power surges - installation protective device overvoltage networks will solve this problem;
- a broken circuit on the heating element leads to the breakdown of one of the burners;
- sensor failure - result improper care and operation;
- overheating of the surface - thermostat failure.
When choosing a hob, you need to compare the main parameters of the equipment:
- Decide whether you need a dependent or independent plate. In the first case, the range of goods is significantly reduced.
- The second important point is the choice of material for making the stove in general and the burners in particular. Cast iron spirals are inexpensive, but take a long time to heat up and are energy-consuming. Many people believe that the best electric hobs are glass-ceramic. Their main advantages: creative design and high heating rate. A progressive version of glass ceramics - induction surfaces, characterized by energy efficiency.
- Functionality of the stove. Availability additional options makes cooking faster and more convenient. It would be good if the hob is equipped with: a timer, a heating function, a standby mode and a safety shutdown.
- The number of burners is determined based on the intensity of use of the stove and the size of the kitchen. Electric 4-burner hob - classic version, suitable for a family accustomed to regularly eating at home. For arranging a small working area You can choose a compact 2-burner model.
Electric hobs: which ones are better. Reviews and tips for choosing a work surface.
