Roof drainage diagram

The drain is the last point in the roof structure, so it is very important to calculate the diameter of the pipe and the cross-section of the gutter and install it correctly. A correctly executed roof drainage diagram plays important role not only in terms of its strength, but also has an impact on the appearance of the house as a whole. The process of installing a drainage system can be divided into five stages:

Selection of construction material

Plastic parts for drainage

The modern market for drainage structures is represented by various options, among which there are products for which such traditional material, such as tin, galvanized iron, copper, as well as more modern solutions made of galvanized metal with a polymer coating and polyvinyl chloride (PVC), which is simply called plastic. The latter combines the optimal solution to the issue of price and quality, is resistant to precipitation, chemical influences, easy to transport and easy to use. In addition, plastic has proven itself in terms of strength, flexibility and resistance to heavy loads. PVC gutters are resistant to ultraviolet radiation and do not change color over time. At correct installation and operation, such structures last up to 50 years.

Main details of the structure

Main parts of a drain: gutter and downspout

The parts from which most roof drainage systems are made can be divided into three main groups: gutters, pipes and fittings. The gutter serves to transfer water through a funnel into a drainpipe and is a profile of a semicircular, trapezoidal and square section, installed along the perimeter of the roof. To ensure that water gets into the watering can (water inlet), a plug is installed at the end of the gutter. To connect dimensional fragments of a product along the length, couplings and adapters are used.

When bending the direction of the gutter, parts called fittings are used, which can be internal or external at an angle of 90, 120 or 135º. When going around all kinds of protrusions, knees help, and tees are used to branch the drain. The end of the pipe near the surface of the earth ends with a part called a drain. Pipes with a diameter of 60 - 80 mm, gutters with a semi-diameter of 80 - 120 mm are used for buildings with a small roof area, and for houses with an average roof size, larger drainage parts will be needed: a gutter with a size of 120 - 140 mm and a waste pipe with a diameter of 80 - 110 mm.

Installation Features

The nature of the installation of the entire drainage system is significantly influenced by the material of the pipes, the type of fasteners, as well as individual characteristics designs and installation method. Of course, the most important stage and the basis of all work is the correct fastening of the gutter to the roof. This is done using brackets that are screwed to the front board at intervals of 60 - 70 cm. In the absence of a flat front board, the system is attached directly to the rafters or to the roofing board, however, the latter option is only possible before installation roofing.

Gutter installation

In order for the design to work effectively, the gutter is installed with a slope of 3 to 6 mm per 1 m of the length of the entire length of the gutter and the edge of the roof so that it falls in the middle of the gutter. When installing a drainpipe, you need to maintain a distance from the wall of the house of 5 - 10 cm. Otherwise, if the drainpipe fits tightly to the wall, the latter will constantly remain wet during precipitation.

Pipe brackets are installed under each joint. It is advisable to maintain a distance of at least 40 - 50 cm from the end of the drain and the ground. An interesting innovation has recently appeared in the system of draining water through a drainpipe: at some distance from the ground, a piece of pipe was replaced with a storage tank with a faucet at the bottom. This allows the collected water to be used for household needs.

Fastener Questions

Joining gutters

When installing a drainage structure, special attention should be paid to the quality of the connections of the parts, since the efficiency of the system over many years depends on this. There are two ways to assemble PVC gutters - joining with glue and using sealing rubber gaskets.

The method using rubber seals is the simplest; it allows you to quickly assemble the system, like a construction set, and also quickly disassemble it, preserving the main parts. The rubber bands installed in the connecting parts not only perform the function of protecting against water leakage, but also serve as a compensator for a linear change in the length of the entire gutter due to temperature influences.

It is more difficult to install the entire drainage system using glue and, in addition, if an inaccuracy was made during assembly, the joint can no longer be separated and you will have to cut out the problem area by buying a new piece of pipe.

Gutter installation points

Stages of drainage installation

Basic operations when installing roof drainage include the following steps:

a) fixing the funnel using a plumb line;
b) checking the frontal board for its evenness and the absence of various kinds of bulges and depressions;
c) at the farthest point from the funnel, a bracket for the gutter is attached and a cord is pulled connecting it to the funnel;
d) with the help and secure the remaining brackets in increments of 60 - 70 cm;
e) the first part of the gutter is inserted into the funnel and the place for the next fragment is marked;
f) a connecting piece with a rubber seal is installed at the end of the gutter;
g) after installing all the elements of the gutter, close the edges with plugs and mount the elbow to the funnel to connect it with drain pipe;
h) a pipe is connected to the funnel elbow and secured under the drain pipe;
i) finally, without waiting for rain, check the reliability of the joints of the entire drainage system and water the roof with water.

Roof drainage is a mandatory system when constructing buildings. Its main responsibility is to collect and remove rain and melt water flowing from the roof slopes away from the foundation. Typically, the drainage system begins to be assembled during construction roofing structure before assembling the sheathing. Although situations often occur when the roof is already covered with roofing, but the drainage has not been assembled. As an example, you can replace an old drainage system with a new one.

Before moving on to the topic of the article, let’s consider what the elements of a drain are and what materials they are made from today.

What is a gutter

The system consists of two main elements:

1. Gutters (trays), which are mounted under the overhang of the eaves.
2. Pipes that are attached to the walls of a building in a vertical position.

An example of a house roof drainage system

Additionally, the composition includes:

Gutter material

More recently, the main raw material from which gutters were made was metal, or more precisely, galvanized sheet. Even earlier, gutters were made from ordinary steel sheet, which was painted. The latter gradually went out of circulation. Galvanization is still used today because the material has a presentable appearance, copes well with natural loads and has good technical characteristics.

Scientific and technological progress does not stand still, and today the question of what to make a drain from means the possibility of choosing from several materials. To pure galvanization, galvanized metal is added, coated polymer composition, and purely plastic. Let's look at their pros and cons.

Plastic

The big advantage of plastic is that the material does not undergo corrosion processes when it comes into contact with water. Hence the long service life. Other advantages of a plastic drainage system include:

• Possibility of operation under almost any temperature conditions;
• one hundred percent inertness to ultraviolet radiation;
• presentable appearance, indicated by enormous possibilities in terms of color design;
• ease of construction.

The only thing that plastic products are afraid of is shock loads, under the influence of which they crack and become unusable.

About plastic brackets. Bend them, give them the required form fastening will not succeed. In this regard, metal ones are better, they are easier to customize. Therefore, when installing plastic brackets, it is necessary to accurately install them on front board taking into account the landing site and the height of the roof overhang. True, today manufacturers offer adjustable products in which you can change the angle of inclination using a hinge joint. A good option that has proven that it is the most convenient in the category of plastic brackets.

Metal with polymer coating

In terms of their characteristics and service life, the products will not be inferior to plastic ones. But there is one serious drawback - the polymer layer. It is not strong enough and can easily be scratched or peeled off with a little force using a sharp tool. Therefore, it is important not to spoil the protective polymer coating when installing a roof drain.

Metal drainage systems with polymer coating

There is no protective layer even in a tiny area, you get a defect through which metal sheet water begins to penetrate. The consequence is metal corrosion and reduced service life.

Other options

It should be noted that on the market you can find exclusive water drainage systems made from alloys of copper or aluminum, titanium and zinc. Firstly, the products are marked by long-term operation of the structure and increased reliability. Secondly, a design approach to solving the problem of decorating the facade of a house. But exclusive gutters are not cheap, so the general mass of consumers rarely purchase them.

Types of brackets

This fastening element There are three varieties on the market:

Methods for installing gutters

In this section we will not talk about how to properly install gutters. Here we denote the situations that arise during the construction of this system. The first situation is installation, when the rafters are installed, but the sheathing is not installed.

It's simple, correct option. The brackets are attached to the rafter legs, usually on top of the top plane, but it can be done from the side, from below, bending the devices to the required angle. Side mount can be used if the thickness of the rafters is not less than 50 mm, the width is not less than 150 mm. Often the installation is carried out on the first sheathing element at the eaves, which is also considered the correct approach to the construction of a drain.

An example of attaching brackets to rafter legs

If roofing material has already been laid on the roof and secured, then the methods for attaching the brackets are as follows::

Rules and stages of installation of a drainage system

Before installing the gutter, you need to prepare everything. Buying drainage system. What it includes was described above. Now you need to decide on the quantity of each element.

The number of gutters is determined by the length of the slopes. They have a standard length of 3 m. For example, if the length of one slope along the eaves is 10 m, then you will have to buy 4 trays. The latter must be cut to the required size.

The number of vertical pipes depends on the height of the building, the distance of the drain to the ground and the length of the slopes. Here are the following positions: the distance from the ground to the end of the drain is 25 cm, the distance between the risers is 12 m. The standard length of one drain pipe is 3 m. For example, the height of the wall to the roof overhang is 4 m. We subtract the length of the drain pipe from this size and 25 cm to the ground. The resulting pipe riser length is 3.5 m.

A clear example of the number of drain risers placed

Regarding the number of risers. The maximum distance between them is 12 m.

1. The length of the slope is 10 m; you can install one riser at one end and direct the gutters in its direction.
2. The length of the slope is more than 12 m, but not more than 24 m; two risers are installed at the edges of the roof, which means their total length is 7 m.
3. The length of the overhang is more than 24 m, three drainage risers are installed.

Regarding the remaining elements of the drainage system.

Dimensions of drainage system elements

Dimensional parameters of trays and pipes are an important criterion that determines effective work the entire structure. Because the roof and the drain are united by one factor - water flowing along the roof. The larger its volume, the larger cross-section the elements should be selected. Incorrect selection leads to water overflowing over the edges, and these are the walls and foundation being poured.

There are certain standards that use the ratio of the area of ​​the roof slope and the diameters of pipes and trays. They are shown in the table.

Here it is necessary to understand that the selection of sizes of system elements depends only on the area from which water drains into them. For example, the length of the slope is 24 m, which means that 2 risers are installed along its edges. The total area of ​​the slope will have to be divided by “2”. It is this parameter that must be taken into account when selecting the dimensions of the tray and pipe.

Preparing tools

Before installing gutters, you need to prepare your tools. Depending on the choice: plastic or metal, the complete set of the tool arsenal depends.

So, you will need:

• hacksaw for metal;
• metal scissors;
• hammer drill for drilling walls for fastening risers;
• screwdriver
• long cord, tape measure, pencil;
• level, plumb;
• pliers;
• mallet, hammer;
• ladder.

It is prohibited to cut metal gutters with a grinder, so it was not included in the list of required tools. At high rotation speed cutting disc cutting metal is accompanied by the release of high temperatures. This leads to disruption of the protective zinc layer. This means that the cut site is an area that will quickly begin to corrode. Regarding plastic, at the point where the grinder is cut, the material melts, losing its properties and parameters.

Installation sequence

Everything is ready, you can proceed to installation work. The drain is a gravity-flow system, so it is important to correctly position the gutters at a certain angle. Its value is 3–5 mm per meter of length of the gutter structure. For understanding, let’s denote that one end of a tray 1 m long should be 3–5 mm lower than the other. For example, the length of the roof slope is 10 m, one edge of the gutter structure relative to the other should be 3–5 cm lower.

Gutter slope options

Based on this, marks are made at the corners of the slope, where the locations of the two outer brackets are determined. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the front board or nails are driven in, between which a strong cord is pulled. This will be the hook installation line.

How to do it correctly to accurately determine the installation locations of the two outer hooks.

1. The first top one is installed from the bottom edge of the roofing material at a distance of 4–5 cm.
2. Measured exact distance from the nail driven into the designated point to the edge of the roofing material.
3. The resulting size is transferred to the other edge of the slope with the addition of a slope based on the length of the overhang.

Experienced craftsmen do not always use nails or screws to install the cord. They immediately attach the brackets, avoiding unnecessary operations. If both outer brackets are screwed to the supporting base, you can proceed to installing other hooks. It is important to install the latter so that they are oriented relative to the cord with the same parts as the first two installed devices.

There is one more point that must be taken into account when installing brackets. The result should be such that the edges of the roofing material overlap the gutter by a maximum of one third of its width. It is this arrangement that can guarantee that the flowing water will accurately enter the tray without overflowing.

So, the brackets are installed exactly level, you can remove the cord and proceed to laying the gutters.

Installation of the grooved structure

In principle, you can start laying gutters from any side. It is recommended to start from the location of the downspouts. At this point, connections will be made between two systems: horizontal and vertical. The element connecting them is a funnel. Therefore, first the gutter is adjusted to the funnel and the place where the hole will be made in the tray is determined.

It is done with a hacksaw for metal. You just need to make an angle cut on both sides, taking into account the distance between the cuts, equal to the diameter of the pipe. It is recommended to process the cut edges so that there are no unevenness or burrs..

Sawing the hole for the funnel and installing it

A plug is placed on the outer gutter. This can be done on an already installed structure. But it’s more convenient to do this before installation. The edge of the grooved part is inserted into the groove of the plug, where a rubber cuff is located inside, ensuring the tightness of the joint. Now the gutters can be laid alternately with the edges of each joint overlapping. The overlap size is 5–10 cm. Many manufacturers of plastic trays today offer connecting elements, which are gutters 25 cm long, complete with rubber cuffs, like plugs. By inserting two gutters from different sides of the connecting device, you get a sealed joint.

Exactly the same designs are made for funnels. Using them, there is no need to cut holes in the gutters. The latter are simply connected by a funnel to each other. Simple and convenient.

Regarding the attachment of gutters to brackets. There are different fastening technologies. Two types are most often used:

• clamps with throwing the element through the gutter; previously they used ordinary wire;
• The clamps that hold the edges of the gutters together are flexible and hook-like.

Installation of drainage risers

The process can be described as follows: the risers are strictly aligned vertically and attached to the wall of the house with clamps. First, clamps are installed. From the center of the funnel pipe, you need to lower a vertical line along the wall with a plumb line. It is better to beat it off on a wall surface. It is optimal to install fasteners of this type at the junction of two pipes, a pipe and a drain.

The first clamp is attached to the wall at a distance of 30–50 cm from the ground, taking into account the distance from the drain to the ground and the size of the drain pipe itself. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws into plastic dowels, so holes are made in the wall at the installation points, into which the latter are driven with a hammer.

Please note that the clamp should be located below any joint at a distance of approximately 10 cm.

The riser assembly itself involves installing pipes into clamps and connecting them together using sealant or special connecting pipe elements with rubber cuffs (double-sided couplings). In the first case, this is a socket connection, which is often used when assembling a sewerage system.

Installation process couplings

If the riser is located far from the wall, then it is connected to the funnel with two bends (elbows). Therefore, first, bends are installed on the funnel up to the wall, on which a vertical line is then drawn with its exact passage through the center of the section of the lower bend.

Sometimes two elbows do not connect to each other with pipes. The reason is the wide overhang of the roof. Between them you need to install a piece of pipe, which is cut from the pipe element of the riser. The distance between the branch pipes is measured, and 3–4 cm on each side is added to the obtained value. The allowances are the joining edges for fitting into the bends. Important - you need to correctly connect both outlets through the cut pipe to each other. First, the pipe section is put on the upper branch, that is, the elbow pipe should be inside it. Then the second elbow pipe is put on the second free end of the pipe section. The first one should be inside the second one. Both joints are treated with sealant.

Video instructions for DIY installation

Conclusion

So, we discussed the topic of how to properly install a drainage system. Manufacturing materials, elements and assembly technology were analyzed. Despite the apparent simplicity of the installation process, this is not an easy undertaking. It requires care and precision. The main thing is to accurately mark the location of the gutters. Because making a drain, that is, assembling it, is easier if the calculations and markings are done correctly.

A system for collecting rainwater from the roof slopes and discharging it into a storm drain, or at least away from the foundation of the house, is mandatory, so it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating sheathing for further roofing. However, there are roof structures that require fastening drainage systems after roofing works. In addition, other situations occur, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.

How to install gutters if the roof is already covered

So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the solution is made easier by the fact that manufacturers of drainage systems, having provided different cases, at which it is necessary to mount general design, they are made in different versions. They will be discussed below.

Varieties of modern drainage systems by material of manufacture

Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only available material for the manufacture of drainage systems was galvanized steel, from which they are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced by metal structures with a polymer coating, or made entirely of plastic. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and long term service, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, “new generation” gutters quickly became in great demand among buyers.

Since consumers quite often have a question about which option is better - regular galvanized, metal, polymer-coated, or completely plastic, it’s worth a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should immediately be noted that everyone from materials from which Gutters are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.

• A plastic drainage system can be called the most optimal option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes and is resistant to winter frosts and summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosion processes, is inert to ultraviolet radiation and other external negative influences.

Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide mounting surface, so they fit tightly to the wind board and are held securely on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration like metal brackets. Therefore, all design details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.

The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the prices of structures made of other materials - this can be called their most significant disadvantage.

• with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. The systems withstand external natural influences well and look very elegant in appearance, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.

However, steel parts with polymer protective coating not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching. Well, what about the damage? polymer coating leads to the occurrence of corrosion processes, which means the duration of the structure’s functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even when installation work. Greater care is required when assembling and working with fasteners.

• Gutters made from galvanized steel sheet are among the most inexpensive options. Their appearance is not aesthetic enough. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches, corrosion can also quickly damage the howl bad deed.

The advantage of metal systems is that some of their parts can be much more easily adjusted to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.

You can briefly recall the less popular materials from which gutters are made for buildings with a certain design solution - this could be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. The reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly high. If such systems are chosen, then you can also select brackets for them that can be attached to the eaves of an already roofed roof.

In principle, support brackets can be selected for drainage systems made of any material. different designs, since they are sold not only complete with the main parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders match the shape and size of the gutter.

Find out how to produce by studying the instructions in a special article on our portal.

When do you have to install gutters after covering the roof?

Now we need to somewhat clarify the moments when circumstances may force us to install a drainage system after the roofing material has been laid on the roof slopes. So, there are several reasons for this installation:

• This process itself, in exactly this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if ventilation roofing system will be carried out through perforated soffit parts installed under the roof overhang. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more effective, which is why they plan to attach the drainage gutter to the frontal (wind) board.
• Forced fastening of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished form, and the former owner did not foresee their installation in advance.
• Very widespread the reason is when the old drainage system is completely outdated and has exhausted its service life - the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and do not perform their function properly.

• If the rafter system was used for, which, according to technology, should go to eaves overhang. Therefore, in this option, there is no possibility of attaching the brackets for laying gutters to the sheathing and they need to be attached to the wind board.

How drainage systems are installed along eaves overhangs

Types of brackets for attaching gutters

Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. The choice of the right model will depend on the location and method of fixing the drainage system.

Brackets can be long, short and universal:

• Long hooks are most often used to secure under the roofing before it is laid on. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before installing the open or continuous sheathing.
• Short brackets can be used to install a drainage system on a front board or on the wall of a building. This type of hooks is installed as before laying the roofing on rafter system, and after the roof is equipped. In addition to the front board or wall, sometimes this type of bracket is attached to the end surface of rafter legs or fillies. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be significantly lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the grain.
• The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible design that can be used for installing drainage systems both before laying the roofing material and after this process. The ability to adjust the length allows you to use them both long and short.

Methods for securing gutters

First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems with a roof covering installed. This will make it possible to decide which of them is applicable in each specific case.

So, there are four ways to secure brackets to elements of the rafter system:

• On the rafter legs, both on the end and on their upper or side sides.
• On the wind (frontal) board.
• Under the roof, on the bottom board of the sheathing or on plywood (opc) of continuous sheathing.
• On the edge of the roof covering.

The first method is to the rafters or sheathing

If the brackets are fixed before installing the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the sheathing. In this case, supporting hooks with long legs that if necessary correct location gutters can be bent or left straight. In addition to them, universal brackets are sometimes used for the installation of drainage systems in this case.

Attaching hooks to sheathing boards (sheets)

If the roof covering has already been laid, for example if the old gutter system needs to be replaced, and the brackets are planned to be fixed in a similar way, then the bottom layer of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.

To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of coverage. Rigid roofing material must be removed carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in use for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary expenses. And not every material can be dismantled without breaking its integrity or without deformation, especially if it is secured with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.

In a situation where the roof is laid on a plywood base, you can try to carefully lift only the lower edge of the roofing material running along the eaves. Then, place the brackets on the solid sheathing and secure them with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafters through the plywood covering. Next step bitumen shingles or the roofing material returns to its original position and is fixed to the surface using bitumen mastic.

Video: Installation of a drainage system with edge dismantling of tile roofing

In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try using another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists of attaching hooks to the side of the timber. For this purpose, brackets with a bent mounting platform turned horizontally are purchased or manufactured - an example is shown in the figure above.

It should be remembered that such installation is only possible if the rafter legs have a sufficiently large cross-sectional size, for example, 120×50 or 150×50 mm. In addition, it is necessary to take into account that the hooks must be secured so that the roof covering hangs over the gutter, covering ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise an overflow of water may occur during heavy rain.

Therefore, if you choose the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafters, you first need to do a fitting, which will show whether this method of installation is possible.

The second method is to attach the brackets to the front board

The easiest way to install the brackets is on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various fasteners.

The front board is fixed to the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs it can be wide or narrow. The choice of bracket type will depend on this parameter.

For installation drainage system Suitable for front board:

• Long brackets, if the frontal board has big enough width. Such holders are made of metal and have a leg the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the front board.

• Short brackets are designed for fastening them to the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as to the end side of the rafters. As already mentioned, the latter option is undesirable; the reliability of the fixation will be questionable due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood fibers.

Plastic short hooks most often have a wide base in the mounting area, so they will firmly hold the gutters.

In addition to conventional brackets, you can find adjustable versions on sale. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have a special device that allows you to set the slope of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function cannot be avoided, for example, when installing a drainage system on an inclined wind board or on the crown of a log house.

Another option for attaching gutters to the front board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special holder brackets. First, a guide is fixed to the wind board, which is immediately given the required slope. Then brackets are put on the side of the profile and moved along the guide, spaced at the required distance. There is no need to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this fastening system. In addition, when installing it, you will not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you will only need to align the profile with the required slope in level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.

However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang has a suitable width.

When installing individual brackets, first a horizontal line is marked on the wind board with a slope of three to five millimeters for each linear meter of the gutter towards the drain funnel. Then you need to retreat from the end edge of the front board from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the installation location for the first bracket.

Next, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (systems from some manufacturers allow a larger step - this is specified in the installation instructions). In the area where the drain funnel is installed, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.

After making such markings, you can proceed to attaching the brackets to the front board.

The third method is to attach the brackets directly to the edge of the roofing.

This method is applicable for installing a drainage system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material. Fastening of hook holders is carried out using special clamps (clamps), which secure the brackets along the edge of the roof.

There are different types of clamps; to secure some of them, you will need to carefully drill through holes in the roofing material, moving back at least 50 mm from its edge. Others have a design that does not require drilling into the roof, as they are clamped along its edge. This option is fixed with a screw, which, similar to a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.

If the brackets will be fixed to the wave covering, then this must be done exactly at the lower or upper point of the wave. It is recommended to place rubber pads under the metal fastening tabs of the clamp, both on the top and on the bottom side roofing material, so the load on it will become slightly lower and the compression will be softer.

For this method of installing a drain, both metal and plastic brackets are suitable. Ordinary long metal hooks can be remade yourself by bending them as needed, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic ones must be purchased ready-made.

Since in this option the entire load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a kit that is lightweight.

The fourth method is with an additional long bracket

In this option, an additional metal L-shaped bracket is used to attach short holders for gutters. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.

This fastening method sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with a previously laid roofing without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120÷150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafters, and there is no desire to fix the brackets to the edge of the roof or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.

There are other ways to install a drainage system with a previously covered roof:

• So, if it is necessary to arrange a drainage system that already has covered slopes, the brackets can be fixed directly to the wall surface, carefully taking measurements and markings.
• Hooks are sometimes attached securely installed soffit, if it has the appropriate width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed to metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the surface of the soffit, similar to the picture shown above.
• If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen; they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then first a hole of the appropriate diameter is drilled in it, into which a pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled concrete mortar, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, you must wait until the solution has completely hardened.

If you plan to lay the gutter on pins driven into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the drainpipe funnel is ensured.

• Pull-up pendant mount not so popular compared to the options described above, but sometimes you can’t do without such a design. This bracket has special bends, one of which picks up the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, on the holder there is a sleeve with an internal thread, through it, as well as top part gutter walls, a fastening element is screwed into the wall or front board.

This type of fastening can be used to fix the drain both on the front board and on the ends of the rafter legs.

If such fastenings are chosen, then the gutter must be covered on top with a protective mesh, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the bridges, collecting dust and dirt that flows down with water with roof, and over time a plug forms in the gutter. To prevent water from overflowing due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.

By the way, you can note that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.

Parameters of gutters and the angle of their installation

Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of securing the gutter system, before going to the store to buy it, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge during heavy rain.

In addition, you need to decide on the cross-section of the pipes into which storm drains from the gutter will flow, since if you purchase a pipe it is not enough large diameter, it may not be able to cope with the flows, and the water will go over the edge of the gutters - onto the walls and under the foundation.

To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. There are certain standards in this regard. So, if the length of the eaves of the slope is up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a vertical drain pipe. For longer cornices, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to install two pipes - at the corners of the building.

So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the eaves to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated in the above diagram by the letter Y, as well as the length of the eaves line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the drainage area of ​​one roof slope.

As you can see in the drawing, a gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, at the bottom of which the drainpipe is mounted.

If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and two gutters from it, sloping towards the corners of the building, where the gutters are installed.

Gutter slope gutters should be 3÷5 mm for each linear meter of gutter length.

Now it’s worth figuring out what sizes of gutter and drain pipe you need to choose, taking into account the calculated catchment area.

S (area) of the catchment area, m²	Gutter section, mm.	Section of a drainpipe with a gutter slope in one direction, that is, with the installation of one funnel, mm.	Section of a drainpipe with a gutter sloped in two directions, that is, with the installation of two funnels, mm.
60÷100	115	87	-
80÷130	125	110	-
120÷200	150	-	87
160÷220	150	-	110

If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and provides other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.

Drain pipe location	Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system
	Gutter -75 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -100 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 110 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -150 mm, drain pipe 110 mm
	The size of the catchment area, m²
	95	148	240	205	165	370
	48	74	120	100	82	180
	42	50	95	80	65	145

Other elements of the drainage system

Now, having understood the principles and methods of installing a drainage system, and how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.

So, in addition to drainpipes, gutters and brackets for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays its own important role in the design:

• A plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket used to seal the joints of individual gutters. Typically, these parts will be necessary in two-pipe drainage systems or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
• The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
• The plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on its two sides at the ends.
• A drain or outlet funnel is connected to the drain gutter on one or both sides, depending on the chosen installation scheme. The lower part of the funnel is hermetically connected to the vertical drain pipe.
• An elbow is a part designed to create bends in a drainpipe. If the wall is flat, then an elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and at the bottom to drain water away from the base of the house. If the gutter and drainpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has big enough width, due to which it is located far from the wall, and Bottom part the pipe fits vertically into the pipe, then the elbows may not be used at all.
• Brackets for fixing the drainpipe to the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps in which the pipe is fixed.
• Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the gutter and drainpipe holders will be attached.

• Holder brackets for gutters are installed at a distance of 500÷800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the cornice and select the optimal installation step.
• Clamp brackets for holding drainpipes are fixed on or into the wall with a pitch of 1200÷1500 mm.
• The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. There can be two or one of them installed on each slope.
• Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they need to be purchased with a reserve, taking into account the fact that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always find a use for the surplus.

• For each of the joints of the individual parts of the gutter, special rubber connectors and roofing sealant must be provided. It is also used to seal end caps.

Installation of a drainage system

Tools required for work

A few words need to be said about the tools that will be required to install the drain. It is necessary to correctly understand that the set of tools may vary depending on what material it is made of. drainage structure- made of metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:

• Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will not be very neat and will have to be cleaned.
• Shears for cutting sheet metal.
• Hammer and (or) – for fastening structural parts
• A hammer drill for drilling holes in a brick or concrete wall for installing clamp brackets for a drainpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
• Pliers will be necessary for metal structures.
• A rubber hammer (mallet) will be required when installing the plugs.
• Construction level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, long cord - for marking operations.
• A reliable stepladder or scaffolding – for ease of work and ensuring its safety.

In this same section, you should immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut elements of drainage systems using a hacksaw or metal scissors, and in no case with a grinder (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.

When making a cut with a grinder, the metal or plastic becomes very hot. This leads to burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cut area of ​​the metal and melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, polymer protective layer, applied to metal pipe or gutter, can begin to peel off at a distance of even up to 50 mm around the cut, which will make the metal practically defenseless against moisture.

That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the masters and cut the parts drains only with those tools that are indicated above.

We believe that everything necessary for installing a drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to consideration of installation work.

Sequence of installation work - step by step

So if roofing pie already installed, most widespread An option for fixing the drain is to fix short holders on the wind board. Moreover, it should be noted that many roofers consider the short version of hooks to be more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:

• There is no need to bend the short holders, as they are already ready for installation.
• If it is necessary to repair the gutter, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since you do not have to resort to dismantling part of the roofing. Therefore, you can do the work yourself without calling in the experts.
• The cost of short holders is slightly lower than the price of long brackets.

Any installation work, including the installation of a drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the brackets for the gutters should be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended to first draw up a drainage plan. In this case, we will consider a system with one funnel and a drainpipe.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Marking begins by determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50÷100 mm from the edge of the wind board. Next, a nail is driven into this point so that a cord can be tied to it. After this, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the top edge of the front board to the driven nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the wind board, where the drainpipe is planned to be installed. Using a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire front board. To make the task easier, you can take tinted paint cord. A cord tied to a nail is stretched along the length of the wind board to a mark made on the opposite side.
	Next, focusing on the drawn horizontal line, you need to mark the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific value of the slope, which should be 4÷5 mm per linear meter of the cornice, you need to determine its exact length of the slope. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28÷35 mm. At the end point of the line, the found value is measured from the horizontal, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and an inclined line is drawn. The marking can be done a little differently. Having found the desired point, the bracket is immediately fixed there, and the cord is tied to it. The remaining actions are carried out in the same way as in the first markup option. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The installation step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer).
	The next step is to fix two brackets at the two extreme points of the marking, between which a cord is pulled, which will help secure the intermediate holders exactly along the intended line. Thus, the crosshairs of the projection from a horizontal line to an inclined one, as well as the stretched cord, will indicate the exact point of attachment for fixing the hooks.
	Next, the intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them you need to prepare two or three self-tapping screws. Their number may be greater - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer to secure the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed so that they come into contact with the cord in the same parts as the outer holders.
	After the holders are screwed to the wind board, the cord must be removed and once again checked that the hooks are installed correctly. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width - this way the water will fall directly into the gutter without overflowing its edge.
	Next, you need to check the distance between the roofing and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a batten on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30÷40 mm. This parameter is important because if the edge of the bracket is lowered, water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding off the covering will form a plug in the gutter groove. In this case, the metal version of the bracket is convenient, since if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised.
	The next step, according to a pre-drawn diagram, is to mark the hole on the gutter for installing the funnel and drainpipe. The hole size must match the diameter of the drain pipe. Then, along the marked lines, using a hacksaw for metal, two cuts are made at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration.
	Next, the holes need to be adjusted - rolled to the diameter of the pipe. This operation is performed using pliers.
	The edges of the hole are slightly curved outward - this will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative coating of the metal as little as possible.
	The next operation is to attach a funnel to the hole in the gutter and hook it with the folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has “ears” that need to be bent inside the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter into the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and is bent away from it. This way, you will get the most reliable connection between two parts - the gutter and the funnel. Here it is necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed to the gutter. This modification of this element makes installation simpler, but the cost of systems with latches is also higher.
	The next step is cutting the seals for the side plug of the gutter with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers; in any case, it must be sufficiently plastic, bend easily and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. Seals can come complete with the drainage system or they can be purchased separately in the same stores that sell gutters.
	Next, the seal must be placed in the grooves along the edge of the plug that will be adjacent to the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in the case under consideration the second side of this gutter will be joined to another segment going around the corner.
	The plug is then installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with a seal installed in it can be quite difficult to put on the metal edge. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue, with which you need to gently tap the plug from the outside, along the lower contour. Then it will fit tightly into place.
	Instead of rubber sealant, you can use roofing sealant, which is applied to the edge of the gutter before installing the cap. Then, another layer must be applied after combining them on the inside of the gutter, at the junction of these two elements.
	It must be said that for greater reliability, some craftsmen use both components for sealing, that is, they first install the seal, and then additionally apply a layer of roofing sealant from the inside of the gutter. While the sealant has not lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in a soap solution. Such a seal will not be visible from the outside and will not spoil the appearance of the drain.
	The next step is to install the gutters into the brackets attached to the wind board. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, you need to calculate in advance how many such elements will be required for the entire cornice. To avoid cutting the gutter with the funnel and cap installed, it should be installed first. Having installed the gutter in the brackets, you need to gently press it so that the outer bend of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. There are different options for gutters in shape, but they are installed in brackets and snapped into place almost identically.
	At the junction of two sections of gutters when they are installed in brackets, a clamp is installed under the joint, which has a rubber gasket and a special lock that snaps onto the outer edge of the gutter. Each subsequent gutter, when installed from the side of the funnel, is inserted inside the previously installed one - this will ensure free flow of water.
	The latch is wound on back wall joint and put on top of its edge. From the outer edge of the gutter it is snapped into place with a special clamp. To increase reliability, the inside of the gutter joint is coated with the same roofing sealant. The sealant is applied in a thin layer and then smoothed with your finger, as it should not create obstacles to the flow of water.
	This illustration shows two ways to join two pieces of gutters or corner element system, if provided for by the project. The first of them is described above - this is a latch. And the second is the rivets that secure the clamp to the back and front walls of the gutters. However, to install them, you will have to prepare a special tool. If a riveter is on the list of household tools, it will significantly speed up and simplify any installation work involving thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the rest and is much easier to install, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above.
	You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter using a metal strip, which is attached with a self-tapping screw with a wide head or a rivet to the front edge of the gutter, on its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed on the roofing or on the wind board. In the second case, the strip will have to be bent a little. Metal strips can be cut from the remains of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow load and spring ice. In addition to such braces, additionally, between the brackets for holding the gutters, hooks are screwed onto the wind board, hooked only to the rear edge. These elements will remove part of the load not only from the support brackets, but also from the braces.
	Now you can proceed to installing the vertical part of the drain. The first step is to install an elbow into the funnel installed on the gutter, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60÷70 mm from the wall, since a standard clamp holder is designed for approximately this parameter.
	The elbow is placed on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second elbow is measured, which determines the vertical direction of the drainpipe. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe that will connect the two elbows. To the resulting value you need to add 35÷40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements.
	Next, the segment is put on top of the elbow installed on the funnel, and the second elbow of the structure is put on its other side. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid leakage of the system at the junctions of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above must fit inside the lower one.
	The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be attached to its lower end, which will set the direction of the water flow passing through the drain. However, it is also necessary to take into account that 80 mm of the resulting size will be used to join the flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point to consider is that standard length pipes, as well as gutters, are 3000 mm, and the wall quite often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections.
	Now you need to mark and install brackets for the vertical pipe into the wall or secure it to it. They are installed in increments of 1200÷1800 mm, however, if the vertical pipe consists of several sections, then their joints also need to be strengthened with clamps.
	However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but 100 mm below it. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after clamps have been secured to it, so that after connecting the individual sections, the drainage can be immediately fixed in the brackets.
	When assembling the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the upper section of pipe is inserted into the next section. In order for one section of the pipe to easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly through bends, which can be made using pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can only be performed if the drainage system is made of metal. The plastic will immediately crack if you try to bend it in this way.
	To complete the installation of the pipe, the lower elbow is put on its lower edge and fixed with a bracket. This element is usually located at a height of 150÷300 mm from the blind area. If it is planned to install or has already been installed under the drainage pipe drainage system or storm sewer, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And often the pipe completely enters the storm drain.

So, methods for installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowledge of the nuances of calculation and information about what fasteners are used for such structures can be selected best option. Such that to the maximum extent will suit the specifics of the roof structure, will suit the craftsman in terms of complexity of execution and financial capabilities.

In modern construction, drainage installation takes important place, since not only the correct and timely drainage of water coming from precipitation or melting snow, but also the safety of the entire building as a whole depends on how it is organized. A drain is a set of elements designed to ensure that rainwater, when it hits the roof, drains from it in specially designated places and is discharged outside the house into drainage structures. The drainage system includes gutters, downpipes and other elements. Let's look at it in more detail.

Types of drains

There are two types of drains, the classification of which is carried out according to the place of installation.

The choice of type of drainage is made in accordance with the specifics of the building and roof structure.

The following types of drains are distinguished:

• External. This type of drain can be found much more often, its design is simpler, and it can be built both in a building under construction and in an already operating building. If a drain of this type is functioning, water flows along the roof into gutters, from them into drainpipes, and from there it enters the drainage arranged around the perimeter of the building.
• Interior. In this case, the drainage pipes are located not outside the building, but inside its walls; water enters them through special funnels, and from there into the sewer. It is extremely difficult to build a drain of this type in an already finished building, and it is not always possible. Particular attention is paid to the tightness of the contact point between the funnel and the roof, otherwise water will get inside the walls of the building, which can, for this reason, become completely unusable in a very short time. Apply internal drains where the device is outdoor system is not possible for technical reasons, for example, in the case of a complex roof configuration or if the building has flat roof large area.

Often pipes are supplied to prevent water from freezing in them.

Elements of the drainage system

Any type of drain includes separate components, and each component performs its own function. The design uses the elements of the drainage system listed below.

Gutters

A gutter is a channel used to collect and drain rain or melt water from the roof. In cross-section, it has a semicircular or angular open shape; the design of the gutter is selected in accordance with the architecture of the building. The size of the gutter must correspond to the load on it, which in turn depends on the area of ​​the roof and its angle of inclination.

Drainpipes

The design of drains of any type includes drainpipes located outside or inside the building. They are produced from different materials: galvanized iron, plastic, metal-plastic and even copper. Each drainpipe consists of several parts, their connection can be carried out different ways, including using shaped elements such as a knee.

Funnels

As mentioned above, the funnel is part of the internal drainage system and is used to collect rainwater from the roof plane. The industry produces two types of funnels:

• Flat. They are usually installed on flat roofs.
• Bell bells. Funnels of this type are used when installing drainage on roofs of complex configurations. Currently, manufacturers equip the funnel cap with a receiving grid to prevent small debris from entering the drain and thus avoid clogging it.

To fasten these elements included in the drainage system, we use various parts, such as bracket, hook and others.

Builders are advised to provide for their installation during the construction of the building. This option will be the best, since it provides for the placement of all elements of the system in the most suitable places for this, and also ensures the strength of their fastening.

It is believed that the drainage system also includes drainage, where water enters after it is drained from the roof. It can be either open or closed. In the first option, the surface of the ditch is covered with an element such as a grate. are used to ensure that ditches do not present obstacles to passage, and also protect their cavity from clogging.

Installation of a drainage system

Proper design of the drainage system is the key long-term operation home and the presence of comfortable living conditions in it. Quite a few buildings ahead of schedule fell into disrepair and collapsed due to an improperly designed drainage system or lack thereof.

Water that is not drained promptly and completely from the roof of the building or beyond it ends up inside the structure, in basements, destroys the base and foundation, promotes the spread of fungus and deterioration interior decoration. In order to avoid these unpleasant and undesirable consequences, it is necessary to correctly install the system, checking each drainage unit and following the installation technology.

Installation of a drain is carried out in several stages:

• Design work. As mentioned above, the best option is to install elements of the drainage system during the construction process, but if for some reason this did not work out, you can build a drainage system in the finished building. In any case, you should start with. A drain diagram is drawn up, the dimensions of its components are calculated, and the installation points for funnels and pipes are determined.
• Installation of fasteners. Hook-brackets are mounted according to a pre-designed scheme, which takes into account all the design features and materials of the building.
• Equipment for drains is installed: gutters and downpipes are installed.

Particular attention is paid to the angle of inclination of the gutters: if it is insufficient, precipitation will overflow over the edges, and if it is too large, the drainpipes will “choke.”

• A protective mesh is placed over the gutters to protect them from debris.

Installation of a drainage system is a complex and responsible matter, there are no trifles in it, and it should be trusted to people who have serious knowledge and skills in this matter. Compliance with the technology of installation work, accurate calculations, high-quality fastening of all elements are factors that are of paramount importance for what the final result will be.

Gutters are an important part of the roofing system of any building. The presence of drainage provides a lot of advantages, the main one of which is ensuring the safety and increasing the service life of the frame and finishing elements of the building. Therefore, it is very important to correctly select and correctly install the drainage system already at the time of installation of the roofing.

Is it necessary to install a gutter on the roof?

Comfort in a residential building largely depends on the careful arrangement of the roof. Ventilation of the under-roof space, hydro- and vapor barrier are important to ensure optimal living conditions. The drain is also important system, preventing damage to the load-bearing structures of the building.

Drainage systems protect structural elements buildings from destruction and can be part design solution all exterior decoration

The roof of a private house always has one or more slopes. By this inclined surface precipitation falls, negatively affecting the foundation of the building near the building. You can prevent the destruction of the foundation of the house and other unpleasant consequences with the help of a drainage system that performs the following functions:

• protecting the foundation from destruction by draining water to a specially equipped place;
• control Wastewater and preventing roof rotting and load-bearing elements, avoiding leaks of roofing material;
• complementing the appearance of the building in accordance with the general design concept.

Gutter systems are made from durable materials characterized by strength and durability. Usually they last until the next replacement of the roofing.

Roof drainage system

The efficiency of the drainage system is due to its well-thought-out design, which involves the presence of several basic elements. It is these parts that create a drain that drains water from the roof.

A standard drain consists of drain gutters and pipes, a system of fastenings to the facade of the building and various accessories

Each element performs a certain function, and together they are designed for the main thing - draining water from the roof of the house. Features of the purpose of the elements that make up the drain are expressed in the following:

• the gutter serves to conduct water to the place where it is drained into the drainpipe;
• a drainage funnel is necessary to redirect the water flow from the gutter to the pipe;
• the drainpipe is the final part of the system from which water enters the sewer;
• brackets and clamps are necessary to fix the drainage components to the wall of the house;
• pipe tip, coupling, plug, protective mesh are additional elements.

The rounded shape of gutters, funnels and pipes allows for quick drainage required volume water from the roof surface. Thanks to this, it reduces negative impact moisture on the load-bearing elements and ensures the integrity of the structure.

Gutter system options

When arranging a residential building, you can use different types of roof drainage systems. The complexes are classified according to the material of manufacture, type of construction, mounting and installation options.

Organized drains: description and standards

One of the options for organizing a drainage system is organized drains, which are a collection of gutters, pipes and other elements. They are connected into a whole system, which is attached to the walls outside the building using brackets. Water, passing through gutters and pipes, enters a storm sewer or well, designed to further remove moisture outside the site.

Organized drains in private houses are usually located outside the building

SNiP allows the device organized drains on flat or pitched roofs of any type. The set of norms and rules also assumes the following features of the arrangement of organized systems:

• for each section of the roof where there are expansion joints or walls, you need to install at least two funnels to ensure prompt drainage of water;
• Gutter risers cannot be installed in the thickness of external walls. Heating of drainage elements is carried out taking into account safety requirements;
• the bowls of the funnels should be firmly fixed to the wall using metal clamps;
• the distance between the external pipes of the drainage complex must be at least 24 m, and the cross-sectional area is determined at the rate of 1.5 cm 2 for each square meter roof area.

An organized version of water drainage systems can be of several types. The most popular way to organize gutters is to install drain gutters. The products are semicircular elements that are connected together to form a line of the required length. The gutters can be connected using special glue or couplings. In the first case, the parts are securely fastened, but the structure is non-separable. Couplings are more practical and provide the required rigidity of the drainage channel.

The gutters have a smooth inner surface along which the flow water is coming as quickly as possible, without encountering any obstacles along the way

For flat roofs, a storm funnel is often used, which has a round shape. Water enters the funnel opening, passes through the pipes and flows into the sewer. Depending on the area of ​​the roof, the amount of precipitation in the region and other factors, the number of funnels that need to be installed on the roof is determined.

In this case, you can organize two options for the drainage system. The traditional one involves gravity flow of water through pipes, while with gravity-vacuum, precipitation passes through a system with a siphon. In this case, a small number of funnels are installed on the roof. In traditional systems, the flow speed is determined only by the angle of inclination of the trench; in more complex gravity-vacuum systems, high level

A roof drip line is a strip that is fixed to the gable or eaves of a building and protects the facade of the house from moisture. The principle of operation of the dripper is that water from the roof falls onto the plate, and then into gutter. The sediment then goes through the drainage system and ends up in the sewer system.

When installed correctly, the drip line protects the rafters and the entire roof overhang from getting wet.

Unorganized drainage

An unorganized type of drain is just a roof with the correct slope, which allows moisture to flow down freely without affecting the facade of the building. At the same time, water falls into close proximity to the foundation, which increases the risk of foundation rotting. This drainage option is suitable for pitched roofs with a slope towards the courtyard.

In the absence of a set of gutters, water can fall on the surface of the walls and on the foundation, and in winter form large icicles

Unorganized drainage is not suitable for residential buildings, as it does not provide effective drainage of water. When creating this option on other buildings, the features of SNiP should be taken into account:

• unorganized drains are allowed on buildings no higher than 5 floors;
• annual precipitation in the region should not exceed 300 mm/year;
• on the side of the building where the roof slope faces, there should not be balconies, buildings, or a road or pedestrian road;
• The size of the roofing canopy should not be less than 60 cm.

An unorganized type drain is suitable for outbuildings, as it cannot provide good protection residential buildings.

Materials for gutters

Gutter systems are exposed to temperature changes, high humidity, exposure to ultraviolet rays and other negative factors. Therefore, for the manufacture of gutters, funnels and other parts, practical materials are used to ensure the durability and strength of the products. Several types of raw materials meet these requirements, which are used to create gutters.

Metal gutters, which used to be the only possible solution, now have quite worthy competitors

Features of plastic gutters

Of all the materials that serve as the basis for the production of gutters, plastic is the most cost-effective. Such systems are produced in various colors, have an aesthetic appearance and are easy to install. Plastic products are characterized by low weight, which allows them not to load the roof. Therefore, such gutters and pipes can be attached to different roof options.

Plastic gutter is well suited for soft roofs

Working with plastic drainage elements is quite easy. The parts are connected to each other with glue or special couplings. Plastic systems have the following advantages:

• smooth surface allowing rapid drainage of water;
• lower cost than metal gutters;
• low noise level (up to 27 dB);
• possibility of operation in temperature range from -40 to +50 °C;
• easy replacement of individual elements;
• not susceptible to corrosion and rotting.

A negative feature of cheap plastic gutters is their low level of strength. Such characteristics are characteristic of low-quality products, so you need to choose only rigid and durable gutters, pipes and other elements.

Metal gutters

Metal roof gutters are characterized by high strength and durability. The technical characteristics of the equipment depend on what metal served as the basis for the drain. Copper options are the most durable, while gutters made of roofing steel with an anti-corrosion coating are more available. There are also lightweight aluminum gutters, as well as products made from zinc and titanium.

Metal gutters are more expensive than plastic ones, but they are stronger and more durable

The main advantage of metal gutters compared to structures made from other materials is their durability. The service life of metal gutters significantly exceeds the period of use of plastic elements. Other benefits metal drainage systems

• expressed as follows: resistance to, mechanical stress climatic conditions
• , temperature changes;
• various options for fastening gutters;
• protection against corrosion: copper products are not subject to rust at all, and other options have a special anti-corrosion coating;

Possibility of painting in any color with special paints for metal. The disadvantages of metal gutters and funnels are high cost and more complex installation. The most practical are copper structures, which have a service life of more than 100 years. In other cases, it is important to purchase systems that have a dense and thick anti-corrosion coating, as well as high.

specifications

Video: installation of a metal drain

Galvanized systems for draining water from the roof are lightweight and practical. They combine light weight, a service life of several decades and simple installation.

Galvanized systems have all the advantages of metal gutters, but they do not have a very attractive appearance and fail faster.

Wear-resistant galvanized pipes are installed quickly using clamps and other simple fastening devices. The advantages of galvanized gutters also include the following:

• resistance to deformation, temperature changes, humidity;
• Frost resistance down to -60 °C and UV resistance;
• fire resistance when exposed to direct flame;
• light weight, eliminating significant load on the roof;
• low cost with good technical characteristics.

The negative features of galvanized systems are expressed in the low degree of sound insulation. Therefore, it is important to consider the technology of fastening elements to the roof and facade.

Video: installing a galvanized gutter

How to choose a roof drain

When choosing a water drainage system for the roof of a private house, you should take into account the amount of precipitation characteristic of the region. If this figure is quite low, for example, 200–350 mm/year, then plastic or lightweight ones can be used for the roof. aluminum structures. When precipitation amounts exceed 400–500 mm/year, gutters made of more durable materials, such as steel or copper, are optimal.

Copper systems have the longest service life and look very solid and prestigious

Do right choice Roof water drainage systems can be done taking into account the following recommendations:

• the appearance, shape and color of the product influence the design of the building and must correspond to it;
• the sizes of gutters, pipes and funnels are determined depending on the amount of precipitation;
• fasteners must firmly fix the drain to the edge of the roof and other surfaces.

When choosing a drain, the main attention should be paid to the wall thickness of the pipes and gutters. This figure should not be less than 1 mm. It is also important to consider high density and the thickness of the anti-corrosion layer.

Popular gutter manufacturers

Many manufacturers present drainage systems for various types of roofs. One of the popular ones is the gutters of the company “Döke”. The products are available in various colors and are resistant to mechanical and climatic influences. Deke products are divided into several series depending on technical characteristics, which makes it easy to make a choice.

The manufacturer of the Döke systems provides a 25-year guarantee on its products.

TechnoNikol products are also in demand and are presented in large assortment. The elements of the drains are easily connected to each other, forming a strong and durable system. The company specializes in the production of plastic parts using modern technologies.

Plastic gutters from Technonikol are easy to install and look very attractive

The Aquasystem company produces various types of gutters, but one of the most popular options is a complex made of steel and plastic. Appearance, technical characteristics and size range of parts are varied, but all products are durable and easy to install.

Installation of roof drainage

Roof gutters come in different forms, but they are always necessary to ensure the safety of the roof and load-bearing elements of the building. The effectiveness of the drain depends on the quality, parameters and correct installation of the drain, so it is important to first master the technology of fastening the elements and choose the appropriate material.