Paint for a cast iron bathtub - simple and affordable option plumbing finishing. Painting the bathtub is distinguished by its simplicity of execution, significant wear resistance of the coating, as well as durability during subsequent use. Paint for painting a cast iron bathtub can vary in its chemical composition, method of application and quality of the material used.

The main advantages and disadvantages of coloring

This method of updating bathtubs has the following advantages:

• Painting a cast iron bathtub costs much less compared to purchasing and installing new fixtures;
• Wide variety of shades and colors paint and varnish materials allows you to bring any design ideas to life;
• Paint yours cast iron bath you can do it yourself without involving specialists;
• Surfaces treated with paint look original and aesthetically pleasing;
• Painting a cast iron bathtub with your own hands does not take much time and effort.

However, along with the advantages of such a restoration, judging by many reviews, it is necessary to note the main disadvantages of the process:

• Painting a cast iron bathtub from the outside involves preliminary work before applying paints and varnishes, which, in particular, includes leveling the surface of the bathtub, as well as applying a primer to the external and internal parts of the product;
• Painting a cast iron bathtub is possible if pre-treatment plumbing with antifungal emulsions;

Painting the inside of the bath

How to paint the inside of a cast iron bathtub? The materials used for applying paint to internal and external surfaces are significantly different. First, you need to determine what paint to paint the inside of the cast-iron bathtub.

Types of materials used:

• liquid acrylic;
• two-component epoxy resin;
• spray paint;
• Epoxy based paint.
  1. Two-component epoxy resin and epoxy paint are used for application to surfaces with significant cracks and imperfections. Thanks to its thick consistency, painting cast-iron bathtubs with significant defects is easy; in some cases, there is not even a need to prime the inner surface of the plumbing fixtures. Before applying to the surface, such materials are diluted with solvents so that the consistency is not too thick.
  2. Using liquid acrylic answers the question in the affirmative: is it possible to paint a cast iron bathtub? Acrylic has fairly high performance parameters, for this reason it can be used to paint the outside of a cast-iron bathtub. The decoration process itself takes only a couple of hours; for this you only need to dismantle drainage system baths and pre-degrease the surface of the plumbing fixtures.
  3. How to paint a cast iron bathtub using an aerosol? Spray paints are very practical and easy to use. They are highly bright and large selection color palette. True, before applying this paint and varnish material, the inner surface plumbing equipment need to be treated with a primer or two-component thick paint, because most often aerosols are used as finishing coating. Such materials dry very quickly and can penetrate hard-to-reach places.

Choosing a material for painting the outside

How to paint the outside of a cast iron bathtub? If you are not confident in your abilities, you don’t have to deal with the treatment of plumbing surfaces yourself. Many companies provide painting services for plumbing fixtures with a quality guarantee. But if your bathtub, as in most cases, is not covered with tiles or a plastic screen, it outer surface can be easily transformed with the help of bright and affordable paints and varnishes.

Tip: So what can you use to paint the outside of a cast iron bathtub? For such purposes, it is best to use alkyd-based materials with a thick consistency or in the form of a spray. In principle, two-component paints can also be used, as for the interior of plumbing fixtures.

It is better to limit yourself to an inexpensive alkyd waterproof material than to paint an expensive cast-iron bathtub epoxy paint. This is beneficial for a number of reasons:

• The external part of the plumbing equipment is not subject to significant impact, so the strength of alkyd paints and varnishes is quite sufficient for long-term use of plumbing equipment;
• The price for these types of painting is significantly lower in comparison with materials for processing the internal surfaces of the product;
• The paint is easy to apply and dries within 24 hours.

If appearance The bathtubs suffered little damage during operation; it will be enough to clean the surface before painting with abrasive detergents. Then outer surface Plumbing fixtures should be degreased for better adhesion of paint to the cast iron cover.

In case of significant defects, the plumbing product must be treated with priming materials. Upon completion of this stage, you can proceed directly to painting the bathtub.

When using aerosol-based materials, it is better to apply at least a couple of layers of paint to the surface being treated, because such materials contain significant amount solvent, this makes the applied layers very thin.

Conclusion

As you can see, painting plumbing does not require special skills from a person, so this procedure can be completed independently. Of course, processing inner surface product requires fulfillment large number preparatory stages, but all of them are accessible and easy, if all technological processes. Therefore, everyone is able to create a non-trivial appearance of outdated plumbing fixtures, giving them a chance for a second life, and themselves the opportunity to realize design ideas.

A cast iron bathtub is a symbol of the bygone Soviet era, when every apartment was equipped with this unpretentious, simple, but high-quality plumbing fixture. Some owners of “Stalin” or “Khrushchev” buildings still use old-style washing containers, since they are different high quality, strength, durability.

The service life of a cast iron bathtub is at least 50 years, however, time, as well as active use, leave their mark on its surface. Yellowing, chips, and abrasions on the enamel spoil the appearance of the bowl, but change it because of these small defects It’s irrational, because to restore the whiteness of the product, you can simply paint it yourself. In this article we will tell you what bath paint is used at home, as well as how the coloring is done.

Defects in old cast iron bathtubs

A cast iron bathtub has excellent performance characteristics, it retains heat for a long time and is sufficiently durable. A special feature of plumbing products made from this alloy is their heavy weight, which can reach 150 kg. This bowl can be used for more than 50 years, it will not lose its qualities, unlike modern acrylic and steel models.

However, the service life of the enamel coating is much shorter; even with careful care, traces of intensive use remain on it: Note! Even with analogues made of acrylic and steel, cast iron bathtubs are very popular because they have operation and durability. Replacing an old washing container with a new model made of the same material will cost the homeowner 15-20 thousand rubles. Paint for a cast-iron bathtub can restore the whiteness and smoothness of the product for 3-5 times less if you work with your own hands.

Types of paints

It is logical to assume that painting at home is done with special paints. Strict requirements are imposed on coloring compositions: they must withstand constant contact with water, exposure to high and low temperatures, as well as strong detergents. To restore and restore the original appearance of an old bowl with your own hands, you need to select high-quality moisture-resistant paint that can be used to paint cast iron. Bath paint of this type comes in 2 varieties:

Important! The quality of coloring directly depends on the correct preparation of the compound. The base of the mixture has a viscous, thick consistency, and the hardener, on the contrary, is liquid. Therefore, in order to combine the components, it is necessary to mix them for a long time and thoroughly until a homogeneous fluid substance is formed.

Dyeing technology

The process at home with your own hands cannot be called simple. The technology consists of the following stages: preparing the room, preparing the surface, preparing the compound, applying paint and drying. The most labor-intensive operation is considered preparatory work, since it takes a lot of time and effort. The quality and durability of the new coating depends on the correct preparation of the surface. Painting is performed in the following sequence:

Experienced craftsmen say that the most important part of the technology for painting old cast iron bathtubs is drying. When painting is completed, the bathroom area is closed to prevent dust from entering. Polymerization of acrylic or epoxy enamel takes 3-7 days, during which it is not recommended to use the bathtub. For the first day it is better not to even enter the room. The more time passes from painting to the first wash, the more durable the coating will be.

Video instruction

Over time, the enamel of the bathtub wears out and becomes dull. It develops small chips, scratches and cracks. The bowl is covered with reddish-brown rust stains. And then the question arises: how to paint the inside of the bathtub?

Related articles:

Recovery methods

IN currently The most common methods for updating cast iron bathtubs are:

• their enameling by hand or by spraying;
• restoration of the coating using the " self-filling bath", using liquid acrylic.

Note! The instructions strongly advise not to use conventional oil, alkyd, nitro paints, or car enamels to renew bathtubs. They have relatively low resistance to moisture and insufficient adhesion. Because of this, the coating will soon begin to bubble, crack and peel.

Enamelling

The best option for enameling bathtubs is special two- and three-component paints based on epoxy resins.

The main manufacturers of coatings for cast iron plumbing:

• Dulux company, its paint “Realife Bathroom & Kitchen” is most suitable for bathtubs;
• German company “Jobi” with “Wasch Fest” enamel;
• Finnish manufacturer Tikkurila offers the product Reflex/50 for baths.

Before painting your bathtub, you need to consider the following points.

1. Before using the two-component composition, the old enamel is cleaned and then degreased.
2. Then the inner surface of the bath is treated with a special primer. When it dries, you can begin the main work.

1. You can apply the paint using a soft brush or a roller with soft bristles.
2. When thinking about how you can paint the inside of the bathtub, keep in mind that the most reliable and convenient way to spray the enamel is with a spray gun. It makes it possible to distribute paintwork materials evenly over the surface.

Note! The coating components should be mixed immediately before applying the paint. This is exactly what needs to be done because the viability of the enamel is no more than 40 minutes.

Filling bath method

Choosing what to paint old bath, pay attention to liquid acrylic. This polymer has a beautiful gloss and good resistance to mechanical and chemical stress.

The most popular is liquid acrylic, produced under the Stakril brand. It is a high-density two-component (hardener and base) enamel.

The Yaroslavl “Eco-Bathtub” coating and the Moscow analogue “Alpha-Bathtub” are also in demand.

Benefits of coverage

Self-leveling acrylic bath covers have the following advantages.

1. Their smoothness is higher than that of factory enameling. This increases the resistance of the finish to various influences.
2. The low thermal conductivity of the polymer helps plumbing fixture keep the temperature 10 times longer hot water. This makes bathing more comfortable.
3. Easy to care for. The acrylic coating can be wiped with a sponge dampened soap solution. There is no need to use abrasive and aggressive chemical cleaning agents.
4. High strength, because acrylic enamel has increased degree wear resistance.
5. With a coating thickness of about 6 centimeters, its complete hardening occurs in no more than four days.

Preparing the bowl

First you need to prepare the surface.

Below is the procedure.

1. If the coverage has only small scratches and yellowed areas, it will be enough to remove upper layer old enamel with medium sandpaper.
2. When protective layer has deep cracks, scratches, ingrained pockets of corrosion, you will have to tinker. In this case, the coating is removed with an electric drill with an attachment in the form of an abrasive wheel.

Note! this work will cause a large amount of dust to appear in the air. Therefore, wear a respirator or protective mask.

1. Next, wash off any remaining dust and dirt from the bathtub after sanding.
2. Degrease the surface with any solvent, for example white spirit. You can also use for this baking soda. Dilute it to a paste and wipe the bath with the mixture. Then rinse off any remaining residue with warm water.
3. If the bowl has deep chips or cracks, cover them with epoxy resin putty. It dries almost instantly. You can work with a small rubber spatula.

1. The technology of updating bathtubs using liquid acrylic requires that the surface of the device be warm. Otherwise, the composition will not lie smoothly. For this purpose, fill the bowl for 5/7 minutes hot water. Then drain it.
2. Next, the bath should be dried very quickly using a highly absorbent, lint-free cloth.
3. At the last stage of preparation, remove the bottom and top drains to prevent acrylic from entering the sewer line. Cover the overflow hole with tape, and place a container under the bottom drain so that the remaining paint flows into it. Application of acrylic coating

1. Mix the base and enamel hardener according to the attached instructions. Pour part of the prepared composition into a working container from which it will be convenient to distribute the acrylic.
2. Pour a thin strip of enamel over the edge of the tub. If it has a tile baseboard, then use a spatula to guide the acrylic under its edges.

1. Pour the material in a gentle stream onto the edges of the rim, so that a layer of about 6 centimeters is obtained, and then flows down to approximately the center of the bowl.
2. Next, you should begin to move the stream along the side perimeter of the bath until the ring is closed. Please note that stopping for a long time is extremely undesirable.

Note! Under no circumstances should you try to smooth out the resulting sagging and drips. As the acrylic coating cures, they will disappear on their own.

1. Once you have completed the circle, fill the center of the bowl with enamel. Moving the jet in a spiral, distribute the coating over the entire surface.
2. Excess material will gradually flow into the drain hole on its own.

This method is very economical and its price is low. Including because it makes it possible to effectively restore the bathtub, instead of buying a new one.

A similar method can be used for other metal equipment in the bathroom. For example, before painting a heated towel rail in the bathroom, choose a special paint with a high content (about 90%) of zinc in the composition. This coating will effectively protect the device from corrosion.

When finished, wait until the coating is completely dry. The hardening period of the enamel ranges from 1 to 4 days. It depends on the specific type of liquid acrylic.

At the moment there are two such subspecies.

1. Fast drying coating. By using this material, you will be able to use the bathroom within 24 hours. This acrylic is suitable if you are in a hurry and need to finish the work in a short time.
2. Long drying material. If you restore the bathtub with your own hands using this composition, it will be suitable for use after 4 days. It should be answered that this type acrylic is more durable and reliable.

Conclusion

In this article, we looked at how you can paint a bath yourself. The best option For this purpose is the use of liquid acrylic. At in the right order work and strict adherence to technology, you will be able to use the updated bathroom for another 15/20 years. By watching the video in this article, you will increase your knowledge.

Each product has its own service life, which sooner or later ends. Any thing becomes unusable at some point, and cast iron bathtubs are no exception. Time and water have their effect on her Negative influence and lead to destruction of the enamel coating.

Agree, changing a bathtub is expensive and labor-intensive. More practical solution– restore the plumbing yourself.

We will tell you how and with what you can paint a cast-iron bathtub, give recommendations on choosing a method, and also give step by step instructions for product updates.

The enamel coating of the bathtub becomes thinner over time, rust appears on it under the influence of water, and if measures are not taken in time, the process may become irreversible. The bottom may simply rust to holes, and then the bathtub will no longer be able to be saved.

Bathtub covered with rust and limescale, looks, to put it mildly, not aesthetically pleasing. Without a doubt, put new bath will be the only correct decision if you plan to do major renovation, change tiles and plumbing. However, if the renovation is still far away, then buying a new bath will bring more problems than joy.

Modern cast iron bathtubs are not cheap, and you will also have to pay a considerable amount for delivery. Due to the large weight of the product, it is unlikely that you will be able to dismantle the old one yourself. You need to either ask friends and neighbors, or hire people, which again costs money.

Most likely, you will have to make repairs, even if they were not planned.

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At the same time, the cast-iron bathtub, having lost its appearance, did not lose its very worthy performance characteristics, and can still serve faithfully to its owners. If there are no significant chips or cracks, you can restore the product yourself, and quite quickly, without dirt and high costs.

Another significant argument in favor of restoration: classic old-style cast-iron bathtubs are superior in quality to modern analogues, the service life of which does not exceed fifteen years.

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Basic methods of updating coverage

Today there are three ways to update a cast iron bath:

1. Paint the surface with special enamel.
2. Apply coating with liquid acrylic.
3. Insert the acrylic liner into the bathtub.

Each restoration option old bath has both advantages and disadvantages, which we will discuss in detail below. To coat a cast-iron bathtub with enamel or acrylic, you don’t have to be a specialist; you can easily handle this work yourself. Main - right choice composition and strict adherence to application technology.

Restoring a bathtub using one of the methods given above allows you to achieve amazing results and turn an old rusty bathtub into a practically new product.

You can also install an acrylic liner with your own hands, but this work is more delicate and requires certain skills, so in this case it is better to resort to the services of specialists.

Surface preparation before painting

Regardless of the method used to paint a cast iron bathtub, the surface must be carefully prepared. This is very important stage, which cannot be missed. Proper surface preparation is 99% of success.

The bath preparation process consists of several stages. To achieve good and lasting coloring, they must be carried out in a certain sequence.

First of all, the cast iron bathtub needs to be thoroughly washed and degreased. Dirt and grease interfere with adhesion, will not allow the solution to be well absorbed into the surface and will negate all restoration work. The new enamel may soon crack and peel in areas where fatty deposits remain.

Acid acids are suitable for cleaning and degreasing. chemicals household chemicals. Cleans the bath very effectively oxalic acid- treat the bath with the solution and leave to act for 10-15 minutes.

But it is very aggressive, and when working it is necessary to use hand and respiratory protection. Must be worn latex gloves and a respirator.

After treatment, rinse the bath well, or even better, fill it with water and hold it for 20 minutes, then let it dry. Now there is no less important work– surface treatment with an abrasive, with the help of which old enamel is removed, and the surface of the bath becomes rough, thereby ensuring better adhesion of materials.

Mechanical surface treatment is carried out using a drill with a special attachment in the form of a grinding brush, which, by scrolling, removes from the surface old enamel and paint

Areas of the bathtub covered with rust must be cleaned down to the metal so that in the future it does not show through the new enamel coating. After stripping and sanding the surface, vacuum the bathtub to remove dust and small particles from its surface, and then treat it again with liquid detergent acid based.

Pour it into the bath and rub it well over the entire surface, leaving it to act for about an hour and a half. After this, fill the bathtub to the brim with water and let it sit for about an hour.

Before applying the composition, the bowl must be carefully inspected. Identified defects must be eliminated, for more details see.

If there are chips and cracks on the surface, they must be puttied and then treated with sandpaper, after which the resulting dust must be removed again. At this point the preparation process is complete, you can start painting.

Restoring a bathtub using enamel

Enameling a cast iron bathtub is an old time-tested method that has been used for a very long time. But one should distinguish between professional enameling, which the bath undergoes during the production process, and home painting with enamel.

Painting with enamel is the simplest and most affordable way update an old cast iron bathtub without labor-intensive dismantling work

In the first case, professional compositions are used that require preheating the cast iron to certain temperature. It is impossible to paint a cast-iron bathtub at home in this way, and it is not necessary, since today there are easy-to-use and inexpensive enamel dyes for self-application.

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

Among the advantages of this painting method are:

• inexpensive cost;
• lack of installation work;
• Can be used on both cast iron and steel surfaces.

However, this method also has disadvantages:

• the coating turns out to be quite thin and fragile, the enamel is very sensitive to household cleaning products and impacts. Therefore, you will have to handle the bathtub very carefully so as not to inadvertently damage it;
• the coating does not eliminate severe defects: chips, dents, cracks;
• over time, yellowness forms on the surface;
• The enamel takes a long time to dry, so you can’t use the bathtub for about a week.

The service life of the coating ranges from 5 to 9 years. Although for those who are planning to make repairs in the future and replace the cast-iron bathtub with a new one, such a service life will certainly suit them.

Review of enamels for painting bathtubs

The question of an old cast-iron bathtub is by no means idle, since ordinary enamels are not suitable in this case. Nessesary to use special compounds, intended for baths.

Before applying any of them, you need to study the instructions and strictly follow the technology, otherwise the coating will not delight you with its novelty for long and will quickly peel off.

You need to work with this enamel very quickly, because after 60 minutes it hardens and becomes unusable

Among enamels Russian production can be distinguished Epoksin 51 And 51C. The enamel consists of two components: epoxy resin and amine hardeners produced at chemical plants in Germany and America.

Before use, the ingredients are mixed with each other and applied to the surface of the bath. If desired, you can paint the surface in any color by adding color to the paint.

The composition is durable and correct application can last up to 9 years. The enamel has a thick consistency, which makes it difficult to work with.

In addition, you need to take into account that the time for using the prepared solution is not more than an hour, after which the mixture begins to harden and it becomes almost impossible to apply it to the surface.

The drying time of the enamel solution is about a week, during which you should avoid touching the painted surface

Finnish-made enamel has proven itself well Reflex 50. It also consists of two components that are mixed together before application. The price of the paint is somewhat more expensive than its domestic counterpart, but the high cost is fully compensated by its excellent quality.

The enamel forms a strong and durable coating on the surface of the bathtub. glossy finish white or blue.

There are also Russian-made compounds that, although not as popular as those listed above, have quite decent characteristics. These are enamel Svetlana And Fantasy, which are ready-made kits that include, in addition to the enamel and hardener itself, tools for processing the bathtub.

The set includes everything necessary funds for painting a cast iron bathtub. The surface dries seven days after painting

The process of coating a bathtub with enamel

If a two-component composition is used for coloring, then before use it must be mixed in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer. But don't mix the whole amount at once.

The bath is painted in two layers. Therefore, the enamel must be divided into two parts and first dilute one portion, and after applying the first layer, the second. The working time of the solution is limited, and if you dilute all the paint at once, you may not have time to use it.

Painting a cast iron bathtub must be done using a special flat brush - a flat brush. It has wide natural bristles, which allows you to carefully apply the coloring composition to the surface without streaking.

Enamels intended for home use, have a fairly thick consistency, so it is recommended to add solvent 646 to the mixture in a ratio of 10:1. For the first time, the walls of the bathroom are painted in one, and the bottom - in two layers.

If smudges have formed on the surface, they must be removed immediately with one upward movement of the brush. If you let them dry out, then nothing can be fixed. The second layer is applied 15-20 minutes after the first. During this time, the paint will dry, and you will have time to dilute the second portion of enamel.

The new layer is applied in the same way as the previous one. You can use the bath no earlier than after 4-7 days, exact date indicated in the instructions.

Painting is done from top to bottom, first the edges of the bathtub are painted over, and then side surfaces and her bottom

How to care for a renewed surface

The cast iron bathtub is as good as new, but don’t forget that enameling a bathtub at home cannot provide such a high-quality and durable coating as that originally applied during the production process. Therefore to new surface must be handled very carefully, since its hardness is significantly lower than the original one.

The bathtub must be protected from impacts and prevented from falling heavy objects, do not use abrasives to clean it. Surface only with liquid compounds. It is also not recommended to pour too hot water into it.

Restoring a bathtub with liquid acrylic

This method appeared relatively recently, about ten years ago. Today it is very popular and is used as professional companies, and home craftsmen. And this is no coincidence, he is considered the most effective way restoration of a cast iron bathtub.

Self-leveling acrylic consists of two components: the acrylic itself and the hardener, which are mixed before application. For a standard bath 170 cm long, 3-4 kg of solution is enough

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

Self-leveling acrylic is a truly revolutionary product that can literally transform an old cast-iron bathtub beyond recognition in just a few hours.

This method has other advantages:

• high processing speed with minimal labor costs - this work can be easily handled by a person who does not have special skills;
• the coating is perfectly smooth with a beautiful glossy shine;
• when applied correctly acrylic coating retains its performance And external characteristics for 15 years;
• acrylic is harmless and does not emit any unpleasant odors and does not require application special means protection;
• After three days, the bath is completely ready for use.

Among the disadvantages, only one can be highlighted: the rather high cost compared to enamel. Although the quality and durability of the coating completely compensate for this small minus.

Applying acrylic to a bathtub

Painting a cast iron bathtub with acrylic is much faster and easier than with enamel. For this you will not need any rollers, brushes or other improvised means. Acrylic is simply poured onto the bathtub, and then, under its own weight, gradually flows down the walls, forming an even and smooth coating.

Take a watering can and, starting from internal corner, move along the entire perimeter of the bath, gradually filling the entire upper edge

Before starting, lay newspapers or cellophane on the floor to avoid getting dirty. flooring a solution that will drain from the sides. Mix hardener with acrylic enamel. The container in which the hardener was located can be turned into a convenient watering can for applying acrylic by cutting off its nose part at an angle.

Applying acrylic begins with the inner sides of the bathtub, those that are located near the wall. Acrylic has a liquid consistency and flows down quickly. Once the top edge of the bathtub is completely filled with solution, begin new circle, but not from the sides, but from the middle of the side walls.

After the acrylic has drained from the sides of the bathtub, you need to walk around the circle a second time, filling the unpainted areas with the composition.

All the acrylic flows down, but some places on the bottom and walls of the bathtub still remain uncoated. To close them, the acrylic must be carefully leveled with a spatula over all unfilled fragments.

The mass, as it flows, usually rushes towards the drain; to prevent it from clogging, it is necessary to divert it in the other direction with a spatula. At this time, acrylic already acquires viscosity and hardens.

Acrylic is applied in one layer, and this completes the work of painting the bathtub. Now your task is to protect the surface from particles of dust, debris or drops of water getting on it. All this can ruin the coating. Complete hardening of the acrylic composition occurs within 1.5-2 days.

Restoration using an inlay

The essence of the method is to install an acrylic liner in an old bathtub. The product is made from sheet acrylic, which is heated to desired temperature and extruded using a mold. The thickness of the liner is usually 5 mm.

Externally, the earbuds resemble regular acrylic bath, but they are not a full bathroom and cannot be installed separately

An acrylic liner has many advantages, the main one of which is long service life. At correct operation it can last up to 20 years. He is very durable, not afraid mechanical damage and impacts, does not rust and does not become covered with a yellow coating.

The acrylic insert is easy to clean with ordinary household products and does not require the use of aggressive compounds.

After restoration, a cast iron bathtub takes on the appearance of a completely new product with an even and perfectly smooth glossy surface. Behind the liner you can hide any damage and defects of the old cast iron structure.

However, this method also has many disadvantages. The liners are made for standard cast iron bathtubs 1.5 and 1.7 m long, so if it has other dimensions, then this restoration method will not work.

The insert is placed on the bathtub and should enclose it completely. To achieve this, it is necessary to dismantle the bottom row of tiles, as well as remove the siphon equipment.

The acrylic liner must completely correspond in shape and size to the bathtub in which it will be installed; even a slight discrepancy in dimensions is not allowed

Before the bath you need to prepare, but such thorough preparation as before painting is not required. It is enough to remove the enamel coating using a sanding brush, and then degrease the surface with a cleaning agent.

The liner needs to be tried on; if there are protruding parts, they will have to be cut off electric jigsaw. Next, mark and cut out holes for overflow and drainage with a drill. Sealant is applied to the edges of the bathtub. The liner is installed on a special foam, which evenly covers the entire surface of the bathtub.

The liner is inserted into the pre-foamed bath and pressed tightly against its bottom and walls

The acrylic insert is carefully lowered into the container and installed in such a way that there are no distortions. Then the siphon is connected, and the bathtub is filled almost to the brim with water. In this state, it must be left for a day so that the foam and sealant dry completely.

You can restore the bathtub yourself using this method, but it is best to turn to the services of companies that will carry out the work at a professional level.

If you are in doubt which restoration method to prefer, then read the article -

Do you have experience restoring a cast iron bathtub? Please share information with our readers and suggest your way to solve the problem. You can leave comments in the form below.

Replacing a “dead” bathtub is an expensive business. It is smarter and more economical in terms of overall costs to combine it with a bathroom renovation, but this is a long process. What if nice bath Do you need it now, but don’t have the money? Let's say you bought a used apartment and went all out. Or a child appeared. Or there are some other everyday circumstances that force you to postpone replacing the bathtub for a long time. For example: the bathroom is well decorated, the bathtub is cast iron, solid, but there are streaks of rust and the enamel has peeled off in some places. In this case best option– painting the bathtub with your own hands.

In the case of a cast iron bathtub in a decent bathroom Alternative option– installation of an acrylic liner in the bathtub (“bath within a bath”). This method has proven itself well and is widely used throughout the world.

But, firstly, the liner (acrylic insert) is not much cheaper than a new bathtub, but you cannot insert it yourself. The installation of bathtubs in bathtubs is carried out by companies with necessary equipment and a staff of specialists.

Secondly, the acrylic insert is not painted, and therefore is not the subject of this article. Therefore, if you need a deep renovation of an old bathroom,...

What do you need to paint a bathtub?

Is it possible to paint a bathtub yourself? There are so many scary warnings going around!

Knowledge and skills

You can paint the bathtub yourself if you have some painting skills and know the basic safety precautions when working with volatile aggressive substances. If you have had to repair a yacht or boat, then you will not find anything new in the technology of painting a bathtub. You just need to stock up on protective equipment, tools and supplies. In addition, it is advisable to have basic plumbing skills.

Protective means

• The first protective agent is the season of the year. All work on painting the bathtub should be done with the windows wide open, and your family should be sent to the country house or to a resort for a week.
• Next, you will need a respirator. “Petal” is not suitable, you need a special one, with an organic absorber cartridge (MO). A military or civilian gas mask is even more suitable.
• You will also definitely need a rubberized or oilcloth apron and rubber gloves. You can use household latex ones, but two-layer ones (white inside; yellow or orange outside), just stock up on at least three sets.

Tools, accessories, consumables

1. Flute brush 70-90 mm, only made of natural bristles. It’s better to buy two at once: if one accidentally falls and gets dirty, or comes into contact with something greasy, you’ll have to throw it away immediately. And don’t pull the bristles with your fingers: any microparticle of grease will cause the paint to peel off in the future. It is best to immediately put the brushes in a new plastic bag and keep them there until work.
2. Sanding attachment for drill (cord brush) and Durex. Durex, or Durex circle - flexible, on rubber or plastic base, grinding wheel. Both have a shank for a drill chuck.

1. A paint knife and tweezers - you will need them to carefully, without touching your hands, remove the bristles that have come out of the brush. A new brush always “gets in”, but an old one that has already been painted cannot be used.
2. From Supplies You will need approximately 0.5 liters of acetone or solvent No. 646. Under no circumstances use white spirit, galoshes or other solvents based on saturated hydrocarbons! You will also need a lint-free rag. It can be old, many times washed calico, flannel or cotton. Microfiber cloths, 5-6 pieces, are very suitable for wiping glasses, but they cost money, so it’s better to look for a suitable cloth, and before use, wash it again and rinse thoroughly.

Choice of coverage

What paint should I paint my bathtub with? There are only two options: enamel based on epoxy or acrylic resin.

• Epoxy enamel has been used for a long time, more than 20 years. At proper preparation baths and adherence to application technology lasts the same amount of time; perhaps it will last longer. The technology for preparing and applying epoxy enamel is quite complex.
• Acrylic for the restoration of bathtubs has been used relatively recently, less than 10 years. It seems to be as durable as epoxy. Applying acrylic enamel is easier, but preparing a ready-to-use compound is more difficult: acrylic is very viscous, and the hardener, on the contrary, is liquid, so you need to mix for a long time and thoroughly. In addition, acrylic is more expensive, and you need to precisely maintain the proportion of resin and hardener.

In general, if you are a fairly experienced painter or boater, you are better off working with epoxy. If you are just a neat person without solid working skills, then it is better to use acrylic.

"Ambulance" for a tin bath

It’s not uncommon in life: a tin bathtub, and even leaky, but still no money. How can we be here? You will need a piece of satin-weave fiberglass or your wife's old tights. The piece should be large enough to cover the fistula three or four times with a 5-7 cm grip on the sides. You also need the most common epoxy glue.

First, the fiberglass is put to boil, and the tights are thoroughly washed. It is necessary to boil the fiberglass to remove the remaining paraffin, which is used to coat the fiberglass before weaving. Boil for an hour and a half, after 10-15 minutes carefully draining the top layer of water by a third.

The specifics of bathtub and yacht repair work have a lot in common: from painting features to methods of repairing holes

In the meantime, the fistula with a chip of enamel and the space of 10-15 cm around them are treated with Durex until the metal is shiny and the enamel slopes smoothly to the metal. Then the dust is collected with a vacuum cleaner without an attachment, and the treated area is degreased several times with acetone or solvent until the rags stop getting dirty during degreasing. Then a piece of plastic film is placed on the outside and secured crosswise with several strips of tape.

Now we prepare epoxy glue, spread the grease-free area, apply a fabric patch 2-3 cm in size to the sides of the chip, and punch it with an end brush until there are no bubbles. When the epoxy has set to a jelly-like state, apply its second layer and apply the next patch, larger in size than the first (again with 2-3 cm of sticking to the sides). So you need to apply 2-5 patches. After the epoxy has completely cured, remove the edges of the patches flush with sandpaper; then we paint the bathtub.

Note: In addition to several bathtubs repaired in this way, which have been in good service for more than 10 years, the author of these lines knows of a yacht that has been sailing safely for 8 years with a hole repaired in the same way, and for repairs it was necessary to ground the ship aground, and use ... the panties of passengers as the basis for the patch.

Preparing for painting

Preparing a bathtub for painting comes down to thorough degreasing and creating a solid, rough surface. The adhesion (sticking) of the repair compound significantly depends on the size of micro-irregularities, and its resistance in the future depends on plasticity. Already from the photographs of bathtubs in which new enamel “climbed”, it is clear that the root cause of cracking was thermal deformation. Therefore, we will immediately give two pieces of advice:

Tip 1: For abrasive treatment of the bathtub, use sandpaper No. 1. It will take longer to work, but if you first remove the streaks with coarse sandpaper and then smooth it to a matte finish with fine sandpaper, there will be “micro-cavities” invisible to the eye, into which the enamel will not penetrate, but which will become places where residual stresses accumulate and areas of cracking.

Tip 2: when working with epoxy, in addition to the thinner (acetone or solvent), add 5% by volume of plasticizer - dibutyl phthalate - to the ready-to-use compound; It is used as a mosquito repellent. This “secret” has long been well known to builders of small boats and other manufacturers of fiberglass products.

Preparing the bathroom

The substances used for the restoration of bathtubs have volatile aggressive components. Therefore, before starting work, you need to remove everything from the bathroom except the bathtub itself and earthenware (washbasins, bidets, etc.) If a washing machine, it needs to be wrapped up carefully plastic film, and seal the cracks in the wrapper with tape or masking tape. It is also necessary to protect nickel-plated taps; shower with hose - remove.

Surface cleaning

Preparing to paint a cast iron bathtub begins with cleaning it from surface contaminants. To do this, oxalic acid, pemolux, or other active detergent is poured into a path at the bottom of the bath.

We slightly moisten the path of detergent with water to make a paste, and with an ordinary household sponge (new) we spread it from the bottom along the walls to the top. This work, like all subsequent ones, must be done when open door bathtubs, apartment windows, wearing gloves and an apron. If oxalic acid is used, also in a respirator (gas mask).

We keep the detergent mixture in the bath for 10-15 minutes, then rinse it off and fill the bath to the brim. Let it sit for another 15-20 minutes and drain the water. Now you can begin abrasive processing.

Abrasive processing

As mentioned above, the purpose of abrasive processing is to create the desired microrelief on a clean surface. Therefore, rust stains cannot be left behind: iron oxide particles will then become sources of cracking of the enamel. If the rust and dirt have become so ingrained that you have to remove the factory enamel down to the metal, it’s okay, as long as you don’t rub it through if the bathtub is tin.

First, remove the trim from the drain and overflow holes. Then, using an electric drill with Durex or a cord brush, smooth the surface until matte and free of visible dirt. We check the roughness “on the nail”: the nail on a properly treated surface should “stretch” and not slide. Additionally, we check in the sliding light of an LED flashlight: there should be no glare spots

Dust removal and degreasing

Unlike previous operations, when dusting, degreasing and painting, you cannot climb into the bathtub, or even touch its inner surface with your hands. The most difficult thing to do is when installing/dismantling the drain trim, so take a closer look in advance at how best you can work by bending over, using tweezers, pliers and duckbill pliers.

Before degreasing, collect dust with a vacuum cleaner; With a rag moistened with solvent, we wipe the areas around the drain holes “until a clean rag”, see above, and reinstall the drain trims.

Then, wearing gloves and an apron, pour 0.5 - 1 liter of Sanox or Adrilan into the bath (these are active acid-based detergents; Pemolux is alkaline) and rub it with a household sponge (new again) from the bottom to the edges in an even layer. The acid grout bath should sit for an hour and a half.

Only acid-based products are suitable for degreasing. Alkaline “Pemolux” and other powders are not suitable for the described method.

Next, we fill the bath to the brim and hold it for an hour and a half. The bath gets quite hot. If it warms up a little, add another half a bottle of acidic detergent. When the liquid in the bath has cooled noticeably, drain it. If there is no chain, you need to tie a fishing line to the drain plug in advance. After draining, we fill the bath again, let it sit for an hour and a half, then drain again, at least one more time. If time is of the essence (say, the family left for a week or two), we do the “after sour” washing 3-5 times.

After rinsing, dry the bath household hair dryer. You can’t delay drying because dust is falling from the ceiling. We check the absence of grease in the shower by temporarily screwing the hose to the mixer: the water should cover the surface in an even layer without dripping. We check the cleanliness with a rag with a solvent, as described above. If the bathtub is as clean as a rag and completely dry, we disassemble the drain trim again and you can paint.

Option 1: painting with epoxy enamel

Painting a bathtub with enamel begins with preparing the compound according to the instructions on the package. Enamels different manufacturers They differ in composition, so there is no universal recipe here. If the instructions require preheating the base before adding the hardener, heat it in a water bath; We control the temperature by the temperature of the water in the bath.

Important: Don’t try to “thump” all the hardener into the base at once! Even if you manage to finish painting, you still won’t get a durable layer. Measure the base in 250 ml portions, and divide the hardener into portions accordingly, preferably in advance. If, say, 1.5 liters of base is used, then the hardener must be divided into 6 parts. After adding the hardener, mix each portion thoroughly.

Important: Do not forget to add 12-14 ml of dibutyl phthalate to each portion of the finished enamel and, again, mix thoroughly.

Paint with a flute brush. Having generously moistened the brush, draw a vertical strip from the bottom to the edge, then rub it as far as possible to the sides. We draw the next strip in such a way that the horizontal rubbing overlaps by 50%. Remove the bristles that have come out of the brush with a painting knife or tweezers. Under no circumstances should you touch the surface to be painted with your hands!

After applying the first (primer) layer, wait 15-20 minutes, again, according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and apply the second layer of enamel, STARTING FROM THE SAME PLACE AS THE FIRST AND IN THE SAME DIRECTION. With this method of painting, the covering layer will lie on the primer at the same stage of gelatinization, and the coating will be uniform in structure.

After finishing painting, lock the bathroom for 3-7 days. The longer the period of time from complete curing of the enamel to the first wash, the less likely it is to peel off in the future.

About drips and swells

With both painting methods, especially epoxy enamel, drips and sagging are formed. Their formation should be controlled after 10-15 minutes for epoxy enamel and after 3-5 minutes for acrylic enamel. Drips are removed with a brush stroke UP until smeared. Sagging on the edges of the drain holes after hardening of the enamel is cut off with a painting or mounting knife. It may be necessary to install new cuffs or gaskets to install drain piping after restoration - after all, drain holes will become narrower, and the thickness of their walls will increase.

Option 2: acrylic painting

Painting a bathtub with acrylic is easier than with epoxy enamel. You can paint with either a brush or a roller. The best way- along a tapering elongated spiral from the edges to the drain. You just need to make sure there are no bubbles. If the bubble does not collapse within 1-2 minutes, it is pierced with a brush. If desired, you can apply a second layer after the first has hardened.

But, as stated above, portions of the acrylic compound must be mixed very thoroughly after adding the hardener. And keep in mind that dibutyl phthalate as a plasticizer is only suitable for epoxy. It cannot be added to acrylic.

For your information: acrylic compound for painting bathtubs goes on sale under the name “stakryl”.

Video: example of bathtub restoration work with acrylic