The Neva 4513 gas water heater does not turn on. The Neva gas water heater does not ignite, does not turn on - repairing these and other faults

It will not be a revelation to anyone that domestic water heating flow columns In many ways they are inferior to European units, although they have their advantages. This fact is especially clearly confirmed by the NEVA 4513 model. This equipment is distinguished by its affordability and simplicity of design, which is included in the list of its main advantages. At the same time, this model also has many disadvantages.

Let's find out in more detail what the NEVA 4513 geyser is. To do this, it would be reasonable to focus not only on the declared technical characteristics, but also on operating experience of this equipment by users.

Main characteristics

Geyser NEVA 4513 is positioned on the market heating technology as a reliable water heater capable of functioning in difficult Russian conditions. The equipment is adapted to such phenomena as gas supply interruptions and low quality coolant. Actually, these features became the reason for its popularity in the post-Soviet space.

Hydraulic two-stage flame modulation system – key feature geyser NEVA 4513. At the same time, it boasts significant power, which is 25 kW. This is enough to provide hot water a spacious apartment, a country house or a country cottage.

The NEVA 4513 model very harmoniously combines high performance, ease of everyday use and ergonomics. The minimalistic design makes it possible to fit the water heating structure into any interior. In turn, the modest dimensions of 650x390x237 millimeters allow the unit to fit even in very limited spaces.

Let us note the main characteristics of the NEVA 4513 gas water heater:

Heating capacity – 22 kW;
Water consumption at a temperature of 25 degrees is 13 liters per minute;
Coolant pressure range – 30-600 kPa;
The minimum flow and minimum permissible input pressure of water in the system for automatic ignition are 2.5 liters per minute and 15 kPa, respectively.

Model NEVA 4513 can operate on natural or liquefied gas. This makes the equipment an ideal engineering solution for country houses located in non-gas-free areas. If a gas main is once installed in your home, you will not have to replace the NEVA 4513 water heater, which previously operated on bottled gas, with new water heating equipment. It's forward-thinking and convenient. At the same time, natural gas consumption is only 2.8 cubic meters per hour, while the liquefied consumption does not exceed 0.94 kg per hour.

Despite the primitive design, NEVA 4513 is equipped with security systems. In particular, it provides gas supply control and a coolant heating temperature limiter.

It is worth noting that the NEVA 4513 geyser is very easy to install. The design provides for a bottom connection vertical pipe. The unit itself is designed for wall installation. Interestingly, installation can be done without outside help, since the speaker weighs only 13 kg.

Among the positive aspects of the NEVA 4513 model, we highlight:

Decent technical parameters;
Ease of settings;
Maintainability of main components;
Low cost of components;
Attractive minimalist design.

When deciding to buy this speaker, take into account a number of its inherent disadvantages:

The unit often breaks down;
Makes a lot of noise during operation;
After several years of operation, problems arise with automatic ignition;
If the water pressure is insufficient, the unit often overheats;
If the water pressure is high, the unit cannot cope with its heating.

It is obvious that NEVA 4513 is capable of causing a lot of problems for its owner. What should someone who has already purchased a speaker and does not want to spend a lot of money on calling a technician do? Below we will present typical breakdowns and methods for solving emerging problems. You will be convinced that malfunctions in the NEVA 4513 geyser can be eliminated on your own and with minimal losses for the family budget.

Main malfunctions of the NEVA 4513 column

The most common problem is that the NEVA 4513 column does not light up. There may be several reasons for this:

The pressure in the water supply system is insufficient to ignite the column. In this case, it is recommended to contact the relevant utility service to notify them of the problem;
The power battery is not inserted correctly. Confused polarities are very common reason lack of ignition;
The control unit for the water heating column is broken. In this case, you need to call a technician from the service center.
Souring or broken electrical contacts. In this case, you also cannot do without the help of a specialist.

Let us note a number of other possible malfunctions:

A weak spark indicates that the battery installed in the column is discharged. It can also inform us about electrical circuit faults.
Automatic shutdown of the device after a short period of operation can be triggered by many factors, such as: activation of an overheating sensor or draft sensor, the presence of a gap between segments of the gas supply system.
Insufficient heating of the coolant may be due to weak gas pressure in the system or soot deposits on the heat exchanger.
The burner flame is yellowish in color and does not burn intensely. This problem indicates the presence of dust deposits on the burner.

conclusions

We looked at the pros, cons and features of repairing the NEVA 4513 geyser. This information is quite enough to decide whether to purchase this unit for everyday use or pay attention to more reliable and expensive equipment foreign production. In any case, NEVA 4513 fully justifies its affordable price and can become a simple and undemanding source of hot water in your apartment or house.

Instantaneous gas heaters become “lifesavers” for providing a family with hot water in a private home or when the central DHW system in a high-rise building is not provided or is not stable in operation. Once "unchallenged" in the buildings old building, the speakers undeservedly “went into the shadows” for a while, but now, apparently, they are experiencing a “rebirth”, as an increasing number of homeowners strive for complete autonomy, independence from the “whims” of utility services.

To satisfy consumer demands, more and more new ones have been developed and are constantly appearing, which are already very vaguely reminiscent of their bulky predecessors. They are equipped with modern automation and multi-stage protection systems, which ensures increased operating safety of the devices. One of the most successful domestically developed models is the Neva 4511. This speaker is distinguished by its small dimensions, sufficient performance for household needs, ease of use, and good reliability. However, any technology can present an unpleasant “surprise” from time to time, refusing to turn on or working with certain violations. The water heater in question is no exception. And since it is one of the most popular, search queries - gas water heater Neva 4511 do-it-yourself repair - are also found quite often.

First of all, it should be immediately noted that it is not particularly recommended to undertake the repair of a geyser on your own, at least for those owners who generally have little understanding of such devices. Moreover, you should not do this during the period that has not yet expired. warranty period– self-repair will terminate the manufacturer’s obligations.

However, the mentality of most of our men is such that they need to be able to do everything with their own hands. This is sometimes facilitated by the sluggishness of service departments, excessively inflated prices for calling a specialist, and others. similar reasons. But if you want to carry out repairs thoroughly, then it would be unwise to start it without understanding the structure of the column.

Information about the design and characteristics of the Neva 4511 column is, of course, contained in its technical description. However, it still makes sense to provide information - at least for those who for some reason have lost the product passport.

To begin with, the main characteristics of the water heater:

Name of parameters	Parameter values
Nominal thermal power of the column	21 kW
Nominal heat output	18 kW
Efficiency factor (efficiency), not less	0.87
Types of energy used:	natural gas network G20
	liquefied gas in G30 cylinders
Required nominal gas pressure, kPa:
- natural G20	1,3 (2,0)
- liquefied G30	2.9
Average gas consumption during continuous operation:
- natural G20	2.22 m³/hour
- liquefied G30	1.66 kg/hour
Diameter of replaceable burner nozzles:
- for network natural gas G20 with a pressure of 1.3 kPa	1.28 mm
- for network natural gas G20 with a pressure of 12.0 kPa	1.14 mm
- for liquefied gas G30	0.79 mm
Minimum permissible water flow for correct operation of the column	2.5 l/min
Operating pressure range in the cold water supply line	15 ÷ 1000 kPa
Average water consumption when ensuring a temperature rise of 30° (Δt = 30°)	9.2 l/min
Water consumption during heating Δt = 40°	7 l/min
Water consumption during heating Δt = 25°	11 l/min
Range of required vacuum in the chimney duct	2.0 ÷ 30 Pa
Normal temperature of combustion products	no higher than 150 °C
Column ignition type	Electronic, automatic when water is supplied
Power supply	Two 1.5 V batteries, type B LR20
Average total operating time of the device on one set of batteries	250 hours
Overall dimensions of the water heater (height × width × depth)	565 × 290 × 221
Water heater weight (gross/net), maximum	11.0 / 10.0 kg

Now let's look at it from the outside:

The front and sides of the column are covered by a metal enamel-coated casing - lining (item 1). Approximately in the center of the “facade” there is a viewing window (item 2), which allows you to visually monitor the operation of the device.

Below are the controls. This is the handle of the gas flow control valve (item 3) and the symmetrical handle of the water flow tap (item 4). Between them there is a two-digit digital indicator (position 5), showing the current water temperature at the outlet of the column.

There are three pipes located below, each of them with an external threaded section G ½. On the right (the pipe (pos. 6) is intended for connection to the water supply system - for supplying cold water. The pipe on the far left (pos. 7) is the outlet of heated water, connected to the domestic hot water supply. Closer to the center and slightly forward (pos. 8 ) – a pipe for connecting to a gas main or a cylinder with liquefied gas.

At the top there is a pipe for the gas exhaust device (item 9) for connection to the chimney system.

The entire structure of the column is assembled on a metal console (item 10), which simultaneously plays the role of the rear wall of the device. There are two “windows” (item 11) for hanging the water heater on the wall using bracket hooks.

Now let's look at the column with the lining removed:

The diagrams show “end-to-end” numbering, so positions 6, 7 and 8 are, respectively, pipes for connecting to the water supply, to the hot water supply and to the gas source.

The pipe (pos. 6) is connected to the water block (pos. 12), from which the valve stem for adjusting the water flow (pos. 13) enters. Below you can see a cylindrical part with a notch on the walls (item 14) - this is a plug for draining water from the column during repair and maintenance work. It also provides an emergency valve that is triggered when the pressure in the water supply network is exceeded.

An electronic control unit (item 16) is located in the center, from which wires come out to the sensors and functional elements device.

The gas block (position 17) is located symmetrically to the water block. They are collected in single design– water-gas unit. The valve stem for adjusting the gas flow comes out of the gas block (pos. 18). An electromagnetic valve is installed between the inlet pipe and the tap. gas valve(pos. 19).

In addition, a microswitch (pos. 15) is attached to the gas block, which is pressed with a special pusher in the off position.

A gas manifold (item 20) is mounted above the water-gas unit, connected to it by a curved pipe at a flange connection. The collector itself is fixed on the column body with two screws (pos. 21).

Nozzles with the required hole diameter are installed in the manifold on the rear side to allow gas to exit to the ten-row burner (item 22). On the front side of the collector, two elements are fixed, which are externally similar to each other, but perform completely different functions. On the right is a spark plug to ignite the column at startup (pos. 23). On the left (position 24) is a flame sensor (often called an ionization sensor).

Above is a copper heat exchanger (item 25), where, in fact, the water is heated from the burner flame. The heat exchanger has detachable connections: on the right (pos. 26) - with the water unit of the device, and on the left (pos. 27) - with the hot water outlet. Additionally, the heat exchanger is fixed to the housing with a pair of screws (pos. 28)

There are two sensors located at the outlet pipe itself. The top one (pos. 29) is a sensor protecting the column from overheating (essentially a thermal relay), and the bottom one (pos. 30) acts as a thermometer and is connected by a pair of wires to the display panel on the casing of the device.

At the top of the column there is a gas outlet device (item 31), which has its own system of straight and shaped jumpers that direct the flow of hot combustion products in the right direction towards the chimney channel. On the left side (pos. 32) there is a traction sensor, which is also a thermal relay, and is connected by one electrical circuit in series with the overheating sensor (pos. 29).

At the bottom there is a plastic battery compartment (item 34) for two batteries.

And finally, on the bottom left and right, at the extreme points of the console body, there are two brackets with eyes (item 33), into which screws are screwed when installing the casing-cladding.

Many of the parts and components will be discussed in more detail as the publication progresses, with images attached. In this case, all numbering on diagrams or photographs will be preserved.

Video: basic information on the design of the Neva 4511 geyser

The principle of operation of the gas water heater "Neva 4511"

To understand how the water heater works and what protection systems it is equipped with, let’s look at another diagram:

Schematic diagram of the operation of the Neva 4511 column

In the off position of the device, power is not supplied to the electronic circuits of the control unit (pos. 16) - it is open in the microswitch (pos. 15) located on the gas block. The pusher presses the microswitch plate, holding it in the “off” position.

In the absence of power, the electromagnetic gas valve (pos. 19) is also in the closed position, blocking the path of gas flow from the inlet pipe to the gas unit. In addition, the gas supply was cut off at another point. This is a mechanical spring poppet valve located in the gas block (position 35 in the diagram). In the non-working position, the gasket of its plate is tightly pressed to the corresponding seat, completely closing the channel for the passage of gas towards the manifold.

The main part of the water block (if you do not consider control valve) is the so-called “frog” (item 36) - a two-chamber device separated by an elastic rubber membrane. The “frog” cameras communicate – a special channel is provided for this. When the water supply is turned off, the pressure in the chambers is reduced, and the membrane takes a free equilibrium position.

The passage of water from the main to the heat exchanger is carried out through the lower chamber, and in the upper chamber there is a movable rod with a plastic plate adjacent to the membrane. The rod goes out through a special hole in the center towards the gas block.

Accordingly, in the body of the gas block, a response rod is located precisely coaxially, which is connected to a mechanical poppet valve, and the microswitch pusher is attached to it.

What's happening at start-up cold water with the required flow rate (at least 2.5 l/min), that is, when opening a “hot” tap at the water collection point?

A stream of cold water passes through the “frog”. The configuration of its internal channels is such that a vacuum is created in the upper chamber. The membrane, under the pressure of the flow, bends and pushes the plate, which imparts translational movement to the rod. This rod of the water unit, in turn, presses on the coaxial rod of the gas block, moving it (pos. 37). In this case, two operations are performed simultaneously:

The pusher connected to the rod releases the microswitch plate, and it moves to the “closed” position. The electronic circuit of the control unit receives power from the battery compartment (item 34).
The movement of the rod overcomes the force of the pressure spring in a mechanical gas valve. Its plate moves away from the seat, opening a channel for the passage of gas to the manifold.

When power is supplied, the electronic control unit starts working:

Voltage is applied to the solenoid valve, which opens the path for gas from the inlet pipe to the tap and further, through a mechanical valve, to the manifold and burners.
The control unit generates and transmits to the spark plug (item 23) the pulses necessary to create spark discharges that ignite the flame. If everything worked properly, the burner should light up.
The ignition process is “monitored” by a flame (ionization) sensor (pos. 24). If for some reason the burner does not start working in the first 6 ÷ 7 seconds, then, in order to avoid the free release of gas and the accumulation of an explosive concentration, the control unit will close the solenoid valve and stop supplying pulses to the spark plug. If ignition was successful, the signal from the flame sensor will be converted into a command to stop sparking on the candle. During operation of the water heater, if the flame suddenly goes out, the absence of a signal from the ionization sensor will lead to closure solenoid valve.

All these functions will be performed under one more condition - if the circuit in which two temperature sensors are included - draft (pos. 32) and outlet water temperature (pos. 29) - is not broken. The normal position of these relays is closed, they are located in series, which means that the control unit will receive power only if both sensors are in normal mode.

If the draft in the chimney is insufficient, then the exhaust gases do not pass directly into the central channel, but, thanks to the special configuration of the device, enter the side cavities. On the left is a sensor that will immediately respond to an abnormal increase in temperature and open the power circuit of the control unit with all the ensuing consequences.
The relay located on the outlet pipe from the heat exchanger will do the same. If the temperature reaches a critical ceiling (about 90 °C), then the power supply circuit of the control unit opens.

At turning off the water the following happens:

Lack of water pressure leads to quick leveling pressure level in both chambers of the “frog”. The membrane returns to its original position, ceasing to transmit the force to the plate with the rod. Accordingly, the gas block rod also returns to its place under the action of the springs.
The return of the stem releases the poppet valve, which tightly closes the gas passage.
The pusher presses the microswitch plate, and the electrical power circuit of the control unit is broken.
The power supply does not transmit voltage to the solenoid valve, and it goes to the “closed” position.

That's it, closing the cold water supply to the column automatic mode turns off completely.

To make the picture clearer, you can give a view of the column from below - the photo clearly shows the main parts and components that directly affect the operation of the column (the numbering is preserved). Added position 40 – microswitch pusher.

Location of column nodes - bottom view

The electronic circuit of the column also includes an indicator display (pos. 38). It is connected by a pair of wires to the control unit - to receive the necessary power, and to the outlet temperature sensor (item 39). However, this device plays a purely informational role, without taking any part in the adjustment and not performing any safety functions. The column remains operational even when the display circuit is completely disconnected, for example, when the top trim is removed.

Such a detailed story about the structure and operating principles of all components and mechanisms of the column is necessary. If the owner of the device is well versed in these issues, then most likely, it will even be intuitively easier for him to understand the possible cause of the malfunction and how to eliminate it.

Well, now you can move on to the most common problems and assess whether they can be corrected on your own.

How to troubleshoot the Neva 4511 column

Problem with power supply

As can be seen from the description of the operating principle of the Neva 4511 column, for the normal functioning of most components a stable power supply is required. (the only exception is the poppet mechanical gas valve). This means that if the water heater refuses to work normally - it does not light up or goes out after some time, then the problem may be quite simple - it does not have enough power supplied from the batteries.

Often, inexperienced users can be misled by the fact that the digital display is lit, and it would seem that there are no problems with the power supply. However. It should also be taken into account that a fairly large charge is spent on impulses transmitted to the spark plug. In addition, the control unit transmits a constant electrical signal to the solenoid valve, keeping it open. And the total energy consumption may exceed the capabilities of dead batteries.

Read how to do it in a new article on our portal.

Prices for instantaneous water heater Neva 4511

Sometimes you can find complaints from owners on the Internet that they checked the battery with a tester - and it shows 1.5 Volts, as expected. Or, to check, they inserted it into a flashlight - and it lights up. Both of these do not at all indicate the full functionality of these batteries. The voltage on the contacts may be normal, but the current under load may be insufficient. Switching on a flashlight for a short time is one thing, but a constant stable current during operation, and even simultaneously with the operation of the spark gap at the moment of startup, is quite another.

In a word, if there is a problem of this kind with the column, and no other visible reasons are found, you should still replace the batteries with guaranteed charged ones (in general, it would be useful to always have a spare set on hand).

The possible duration of continuous operation on one set of batteries indicated by the manufacturer in the technical documentation is a very approximate value, which depends on both the quality of the batteries and the specific operating conditions of the water heater. Please note that it is recommended to use LR20 batteries - this means they must be alkaline (alkaline). Cheap salt (R20) a priori will not cope with a constant load and will fail extremely quickly.

Even better, of course, is to purchase lithium batteries (CR20). They are distinguished by high capacity, stability of the generated current, and duration of use, which can exceed the service life of alkaline ones by several times. The only thing that can be considered a “minus” for them is the very high price, and they are not so easy to find. So from the standpoint of efficiency and profitability, still optimal solution- a working set of high-quality LR20 in the water heater, and one more, new, in original packaging - in stock.

You should never purchase such batteries from “unclear” retail outlets, street kiosks or market stalls, especially during the cold season. Incorrect conditions storage can easily lead to the fact that batteries with a seemingly valid expiration date suddenly turn out to be unsuitable for use. It’s better to pay a little more, but buy really high-quality elements in a specialized store, where a sales consultant can also check the voltage and discharge current on them.

Replacing batteries is, perhaps, the only “repair and restoration operation” on the Neva 4511 dispenser, which can be carried out without removing the casing. Access to the battery compartment is open from below - you just need to turn the locking handwheel. The polarity of installation of elements must be checked.

And one more nuance. The speaker is still operated in conditions of high humidity, so it is recommended to regularly check the cleanliness of the contacts in the battery compartment - their petals may become covered with a corrosive or chemical coating, and there may not be a high-quality power supply even if the elements are guaranteed to work. This, by the way, judging by the statistics of requests from water heater owners, is one of the fairly common reasons for the so-called “breakdown” of a water heater.

All further cases of water heater inoperability will be considered from the standpoint that there are guaranteed to be no problems with the provision of power supply.

Removing the casing of the Neva-4511 column

Any other work other than replacing batteries will require removing the column lining. Doing this is not at all difficult, just like putting the casing back in place.

When starting to dismantle the casing, and any other repair work, be sure to turn off the taps on the water supply and outlet pipes and on the gas pipe. Then the following steps are performed:

Illustration
	The whole sequence of work will be shown on a column lying on the table (just as an example). This does not change the order of operations performed in any way. The pictures show the Neva-5611 water heater, but its lining and almost everything internal structure Exactly matches the 4511. Eat small nuance in the fastening of the casing, which will be mentioned. The first step is to remove the faucet handles - just carefully pull them towards you. There are no locking fasteners on them. There is no need to rotate them either. The handle is first removed from one tap, ...
	... and then from the second. If the handle “resists” and does not want to come off the stem, you can slightly push it from below by sticking your hand under the lining.
	Here it is - the only difference in fastening the lining on the Neva 5611 dispenser: under the handle of the gas supply control valve there is a fastening screw that needs to be unscrewed with a screwdriver. On 4511 models there is no such part and this step is simply skipped.
	There is a temperature indicator on the lining, from which two pairs of wires come out. The blue-black pair goes to the temperature sensor, the red-black pair goes to the electronic control unit.
	The wires have connecting blocks that simply need to be opened by slightly pressing the plastic lock. First one pair is switched off...
	..., then, in the same way, the second one.
	As already mentioned, this indicator does not play any role other than informational, and turning it off will not in any way affect the progress of further repair and maintenance work, while the column remains fully operational.
	The fastening self-tapping screws that hold the cladding on the console from below are unscrewed one by one. On a hanging column they are located at the lower extreme points of contact of the device to the wall.
	The screws unscrewed from both sides are removed to the side for now, but in such a way as not to lose them.
	The fingers are placed under the lining from below, and to begin with, it is slightly pushed towards itself - at the same time, special centering semicircular spikes on the console frame will come out of the holes in the casing.
	Then all that remains is to push the casing up - and it will come off the console hook brackets. Experienced craftsmen still advise caution when performing this simple operation - often poorly processed edges metal sheet, from which the lining is made, can cut the skin of the palm or fingers until they bleed.
	That's it, the casing has been removed and can be put aside. The picture clearly shows the slot-like holes into which the console hooks fit.
	And this figure shows (green arrow) a centering locking hole and a mounting platform with a hole through which a self-tapping screw is screwed (blue arrow). These elements are located in the same way on the opposite side of the cladding.
	The photo shows the electronic indicator on the back with two pairs of wires coming out of it.
	Assembly is carried out in reverse order. First, carefully place the slot-shaped hole of the casing onto the hook of the console with one...
	... and on the other side of the device.
	Then the lining is pushed down a little (it itself can sag under its own weight), so that the centering protrusions fit into the locking holes. This is done carefully, since the lining is filmed form somewhat unstable, its walls spring. As a result, the holes for screwing in the screws should line up in the lower part. The fasteners are screwed into place.
	The next step is to connect the terminal blocks of pairs of wires from the electronic display. There is no need to be afraid of mistakes - apart from color coding, the configuration of the pads themselves is such that it is simply impossible to mix up the contacts. And lastly, handles are placed on the ends of the rods of both taps entering above the lining, red on the left, blue on the right. This does not require much effort - there is a slot in the handle socket that exactly matches the “geometry” of the rod.

The process of installing the cladding was considered immediately so that these issues would not be returned to again.

Repair work on the water unit of the Neva-4511 dispenser

The most common malfunctions of the column during operation are associated with breakdowns or failure of parts of the water unit. When describing the principle of operation, it was already mentioned that the water pressure, acting on the membrane and transmitting the force further to the gas unit, opens the mechanical gas valve and turns on the power to the entire control unit. Naturally, if this mechanism fails, the column simply will not turn on.

A malfunction of the water unit can often be noticed visually. When starting water, you need to pay attention to the pusher, which presses the microswitch plate. If it remains motionless or only twitches slightly, it is a clear sign that the membrane in the “frog” is broken (shown with a blue arrow in the picture below). Lack of movement can also be caused by sticking of the rod. In addition, the emergency condition of the water unit can be expressed in the appearance of leakage at the junction with the gas unit or at the water flow control valve (typical places where water appears are shown by red arrows). In any case, the assembly must be removed and disassembled for restoration.

The water unit can only be removed together with the gas unit. This is done as follows:

a – after checking that the gas supply valve on the pipe is closed, twist the flexible hose.

b – in the same way, after shutting off the main line, the cold water supply is removed from the pipe.

V - wrench unscrew the connection of the water unit with the copper pipe going to the column heat exchanger.

d – the contact block on the wires going from the control unit to the electromagnetic gas valve opens.

d - then the wires going to the microswitch are disconnected in the same way.

e – using a powerful shaped screwdriver, unscrew the two screws of the flange connection of the water-gas block with the pipe that transfers gas to the burner manifold.

After this, the entire water-gas unit can be easily pulled out.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The removed water-gas unit lies on the table. To begin with, it needs to be divided into two blocks - water and gas.
	To do this, unscrew two screws, shown in stacks in the photo. You don’t have to unscrew them all the way - they simply use a clamp to fix the cylindrical protrusion of the “frog” in the socket of the gas block. The screws are located diametrically opposite, at the top and bottom. There is a nuance - they usually have slots for a figured screwdriver and a hex head. If you have a coupling head, it’s better to use it. Often in this place the steel screws turn sour in the silumin body of the gas block, and it can be difficult to move them. Sometimes it makes sense to pre-treat the joint with WD-40, since there are many cases where the screws in this place break off from too much applied force, force, and the slots for the screwdriver simply “slick.”
	The screws loosened on both sides “released” the water block.
	Here it is - separated from the gas one. In these photos, everything looks beautiful, in factory lubricant, but this is not always the case - an example will be given below.
	Next, the “frog” itself must be disassembled to get to the main membrane assembly. Six screws are unscrewed around the circumference. They can also be “sour”, so we work carefully so as not to “lick” the heads.
	After removing the screws, the block will open into two parts. The rubber membrane is immediately visible. Very often, it is its rupture that leads to the complete inoperability of the entire column.
	We subject the membrane to a thorough inspection. If it is overstretched, there are tears or even “hints” of a violation of integrity, a new one is purchased. No amount of sealing will help the matter.
	We remove the membrane to get to the spring-loaded plate with a rod, which transmits translational movement to the gas block. If the membrane is intact, then remove it carefully to prevent tearing in the place where it is put on the pipe connecting the upper and lower chambers of the “frog” (shown by the arrow in the photo above). By the way, this tiny pipe is removable, and you need to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally roll somewhere. Without it, the “frog” will not work correctly.
	Upper chamber of the block with a spring-loaded plate connected to the rod
	Carefully pull out the plate so that the rod comes out of the guide channel.
	We take out the spring, and below we see a plug with a slot for a straight screwdriver. There is a seal there that prevents water from escaping from the upper chamber of the frog to gas block. It also requires periodic inspection, lubrication, tightening or replacing the stuffing box rubber ring.
	We purchase a repair kit - a membrane and an o-ring. They are inexpensive and are usually not in short supply. Further assembly of the unit is carried out in the reverse order. When installing the oil seal, it is recommended to generously lubricate the socket and the ring itself with silicone grease. The plug is tightened with such force that the inserted rod does not wedge and can move quite freely along the channel with the application of moderate force. When installing the rod, do not forget to put the spring in place, under the plate.
	The membrane is placed with a hole on the inserted pipe and carefully placed in the body of the “frog”, so that its edges at the edges fit exactly into the slot-groove. Then we assemble both halves of the block and tighten the six screws. If there were steel ones, it is better to immediately replace them with bronze ones - they will last longer, and subsequent membrane replacements will be easier to make. After this, the repair of the “frog” can be considered complete - you can connect the water and gas blocks into a single unit, install them in the column, make the necessary connections and check the operation of the water heater.
	The importance of a good stem seal can be clearly demonstrated with an example. Water leaking through the seal got into the socket of the gas block, caused massive scale deposits, and damaged the microswitch. The gas block rod is partially jammed. In addition, during disassembly, one soured locking screw broke and the cylinder wall of the gas block collapsed - it will have to be replaced.
	Repairing the water block was also somewhat more complicated. The frog's lid, completely overgrown with scale, had to be soaked in a soda solution...
	... and then thoroughly clean it of plaque.
	When tightening the frog screws, it is recommended to coat them thickly with graphite or other water-resistant lubricant.
	All the troubles were due to the fact that the owner “started” the water heater and did not check the quality of the seals on the water block. And such a tiny detail, having exhausted its resource and become worn out, entailed such serious consequences. Conclusion - the slightest signs of moisture at the junction of the gas and water blocks must be stopped immediately.
	To finish with the water block, let's look at another place where water may leak - from under the control valve rod. This happens rarely, but still. The tap itself is fixed in the water block socket with just one screw (shown by the arrow).
	Unscrew the locking screw and pull up the valve stem. At the bottom there is a cylinder with shaped holes, which regulate the intensity of the water flow. And above there is an annular gasket (shown by an arrow). Leakage from the tap is a consequence of its wear or rupture. Changing the gasket should completely solve the problem.

Prevention or repair of the gas block

Malfunctions in the gas block occur much less frequently, but still cannot be completely ruled out. They can be manifested by a lack of gas flow to the burners, the smell of leaking gas, and in the event of a failure of the microswitch, which is also located on this unit, the complete inoperability of the entire column.

The table below shows the procedure for removing the gas block. The steps will be accompanied by comments on which parts or mechanisms may cause abnormal operation.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	In front of us is an assembled gas block, already separated from the water one. Before removing it from the column, if you smelled gas or heard a characteristic noise, it is advisable to localize the leak - coat all connections with thick soapy foam. The appearance of bubbles will indicate a leak.
	Sometimes a column failure is caused by a failure of the solenoid valve - it simply does not allow gas to pass further to the reducer and burners. The valve is mounted on the landing pad with two screws, and has two more centering protrusions, so there is no mistaking reverse installation it is forbidden. The screws are unscrewed with a screwdriver. This screw connection, by the way, causes a lot of complaints from craftsmen, due to Low quality the fastener itself. If possible, it is better to immediately replace both screws with better ones, with powerful heads for a shaped screwdriver.
	The valve has been removed. Pay attention to the saddle of the block in which it is installed - there is an annular gasket that seals this unit (shown by the arrow). On the most movable spring-loaded valve stem there is an elastic “plug” that buries the gas passage channel above in the non-working position. Neither the gasket nor this “plug” should show signs of wear.
	Three wires approach the valve: black, yellow and red, which are connected to the control unit through a connection block. To ensure smooth ignition of the water heater at the moment of startup, power is transmitted through the black (ground, minus) - yellow pair, and the valve opens slightly. After ignition, power also flows through the red wire, and the valve opens completely. It is not difficult to check the functionality of the valve - this is done with a water-gas unit installed in the column, with power available, but with the water and gas connections closed or even already disconnected. You just need to carefully unscrew and remove the valve, leaving it connected to the control unit. Then you need to “deceive” the control of the device - manually move the pusher at the microswitch. The control unit will “think” that water has been supplied and will transmit a control signal to the valve - it must retract the rod with the plug and hold it in this position until the “mic” is turned off (the pusher is released). At the same time, sparking should occur on the glow plug (with a characteristic sound). If the valve does not show signs of life under such conditions, then it will have to be replaced with a new one - it is not difficult to purchase one.
	The gas flow control valve, in complete analogy with the water valve, is fixed with one screw, ...
	... and the seal is the same - an o-ring gasket (shown by an arrow). If there is a gas leak from here, then simply change this seal.
	Now let's look at the microswitch - it happens that it fails due to leaking water getting into it. Checking is quite simple: you need to ring it in both positions. Without applying any external force, the pusher presses the plate against the microswitch, the button is pressed, the circuit is open, and no power is supplied to the control unit.
	If you push the rod (shown by the arrow) of the gas block from the inside (which is what the “frog” rod does when starting), the pusher releases the plate, the button rises, and the electrical circuit is closed.
	If the microswitch does not work, it must be replaced. It is fastened with two screws, dismantling it and installing a new one will not be difficult. However, one note needs to be made. The pusher is a cylindrical rod, which is threaded onto the rod of the gas block. The top has a slot for a straight screwdriver. It happens that a poorly tightened or incorrectly positioned pusher, returning to its original position when the water is turned off, does not fully press the microswitch plate, and the button does not operate to interrupt the circuit. It turns out that the control unit still “believes” that the device is in the working position, and this, in turn, is fraught with emergency situations. When assembling the water-gas unit, this point must be taken into account - the pusher is installed in the desired position and tightened tightly with a screwdriver.
	We continue disassembling the gas block - unscrew the two screws holding the mechanical gas valve assembly in the assembled position.
	Carefully separate the two halves of the housing so that the valve spring does not jump out to the side.
	We take out the poppet valve and a thin o-ring gasket. We evaluate the integrity and degree of wear of the seals and springs.
	The valve “plate” with its sealing belt should be pressed tightly against the seat (green arrow) and should not be dented or deformed. The red arrow shows the rod that transmits force from the water unit and thereby opens the valve.
	The free movement of this rod in one direction and the other is checked. By the way, it’s worth immediately assessing whether there are any signs of water getting into or gas leaking into the reverse direction. Here the rod also has a gland seal, which, if possible, can be changed. Sometimes it is not possible to unscrew it, and you have to change the entire assembly part.
	That's it, disassembly of the gas unit is completed. After inspection and cleaning, you can proceed to assembly, which is performed strictly in the reverse order. At the same time, worn parts are replaced as necessary. After final assembly of the column, all connections are checked for leaks - also by soaping under gas supply conditions.

Important note! If, after turning off the water, the column continues to burn, then this is an obvious jamming of the rods in the water or gas block. You should immediately turn off the gas supply, and then disassemble and repair these components.

Problems with ignition and electronics

1. One of the most common problems is that the heater does not ignite after opening the hot water tap. In this case, the pressure is normal, the water unit operates normally, the control unit turns on, the gas valves (both electromagnetic and mechanical) clearly open, as you can hear and smell that gas is flowing to the burner.

Most often, the problem is that the spark plug does not produce a high-quality spark into the flow of the gas-air mixture. And this, in turn, can be caused by several reasons.

Firstly, the spark may strike in the wrong direction or be too weak because the spark plug contact is positioned incorrectly or has moved. For normal operation, the electrode must be located 5 mm (tolerance no more than ± 0.5 mm) from the burner guide nozzle, exactly in the center of the section.

You can correct the position by slightly bending the electrode, achieving a high-quality spark. Or, loosen the screws on the pressure plate, adjust the spark plug insulator body, and then tighten the fasteners again.

At the same time, it is necessary to immediately clean the surface of the electrode - carbon deposits could form on it, and a high-quality discharge cannot be obtained. You can use fine-grit sandpaper, but do not clean with a sharp object.

In parallel with this operation, similar actions can be carried out with the ionization (flame) sensor. Its electrode should also be located in the center of the burner section, so that it is in the tongue of the flame when the column is operating. The surface of the electrode also needs to be maintained in a clean, non-smoky state. If the sensor “does not understand”, due to an unsatisfactory condition or incorrect position of the electrode, that the burner is working, then after seven seconds the control unit will simply close the electromagnetic gas valve and the column will go out.

Secondly, the contact between the electrode and the high-voltage cable may be insufficient. To check, remove both cables - they simply pull down from the insulator housings. There you will see a rod - a needle, through which contact of the electrode with the conductive core of the cable is ensured. It is necessary to check the condition of this needle - there should be no plaque on it that interferes with the reliability of the contact. After stripping, the cables are tightly inserted into place into the insulators - on the right is the ignition, with red markings, on the left is the ionization sensor, with blue markings.

If the ends of the wires are very frayed, then you can trim them somewhat, but only in such a way that the length is enough for switching, not at a stretch.

Thirdly, a discharge may occur on the speaker body. You can hear that there is sparking, but there is no spark at the spark plug, or it is completely “sluggish”, or it is not visible at all. The reason may lie in a crack in the spark plug insulator - it must be removed, inspected, and if such a defect is identified, the spark plug will have to be replaced. A breakdown on the housing also occurs at the output of the high-voltage cable from the control unit - this place is covered with foil, and such a breakdown is not so easy to notice.

Here you can try to further insulate the cable on top by using thick heat shrink tube or even several layers of electrical tape. It is quite possible that the problem will disappear after this.

If such insulation does not help, and the breakdown on the housing from the cable cannot be eliminated, you will have to change the control unit.

By the way, problems with the spark, when it strikes incorrectly or is too weak, provoke another “illness” of the column - ignition occurs explosively, with a loud bang. A dangerous concentration of gas accumulates in the combustion chamber, which leads to this effect. Eliminating problems with sparking should also eliminate this problem.

2. The column may not turn on due to a malfunction of the draft and outlet water temperature sensors. It has already been said that they are in series in one circuit, and the failure of even one of them will break this circuit, accordingly, thereby preventing the control unit from working.

You can check the sensors by dialing or by exclusion. When tested with an ohmmeter, the working sensor should show almost complete conductivity (resistance close to 0 Ohm). To check, the spade terminals are removed from the sensors - at the same time you can check the condition of the contacts, since it is possible that they have simply “soured” and require cleaning.

If you don’t have a multimeter, you can do it differently. Temporary jumpers are placed on the sensors one by one, closing them directly. For example, they bridge the traction sensor and try to start the column. If it ignites freely after this, the cause has been found and the sensor requires replacement.

To check, you can temporarily install jumpers - first on the traction sensor, ...

If the jumper on the sensor does not give anything, it is removed and placed on the second one - temperature. The check is carried out in the same way.

... and then to the overheat protection sensor

IMPORTANT: if the column works with jumpers, this does not mean at all that you can leave it that way. Such testing is carried out solely to identify a malfunction and only when the water heater is started for a short time. Operating the dispenser with a shorted safety circuit is strictly prohibited!

A few more words about this safety chain.

The reason for the column turning off quickly after a normal start may be insufficient traction - the upper sensor in this circuit opens at a temperature of about 75 - 80 degrees. Sometimes this phenomenon is caused by improper installation of the combustion product exhaust pipe. The table below shows common cases when incorrect installation prevents the column from operating normally.

Illustration	Short description
Correct installation
	The diagram shows the parameters for the correct installation of a combustion product removal system.
Incorrect installation
	A common mistake is to embed the pipe so that it either almost touches the back wall of the chimney duct, or overlaps it over a large cross-sectional area. There will be no required traction.
	On the same level as installed pipe the column has a ventilation window or connection to another device.
	The laid pipe is used together to connect another device, including a kitchen hood. There will be no required vacuum in the smoke exhaust channel of the column.

Eliminating chimney installation errors should normalize the draft, and malfunctions in the operation of the water heater will stop.

The lower temperature sensor may be triggered if the balance of water and gas flow is incorrect. This can be eliminated by appropriately adjusting the taps - reducing the gas supply and increasing the water pressure.

Well, if with tested, guaranteed working batteries, a microswitch that is clearly triggered when the water starts, a tested, closed safety circuit by default, but the column still does not turn on, most likely you will need to replace its “brains” - the control unit.

To finish the topic of electronics - one more possible problem, which does not directly affect the performance of the column, but does introduce some discomfort during its operation.

We are talking about problems with the operation of the digital display on the front panel, despite the fact that the column itself is working properly.

So, the dial may not light up at all, which means that it is necessary to check the reliability of its contact connection with the temperature sensor and with the control unit. If these measures do not change anything, it means that the display itself is failing and will have to be replaced.
If, after startup, the numbers on the display are replaced by error symbols “EE”, then the problem should be looked for in the temperature sensor. Here it is also possible that the contacts have become sour, or full exit sensor is faulty.

Burner problems

The column may turn on and operate normally, but not reach the required heating level. It happens that the device begins to “smoke”, and the flames on the burners are of an uncharacteristic blue color, and with a clear yellowness, unstable. It also happens that one of the row sections does not light up at all. All this is a consequence of the burner being clogged with dust and the nozzles of the nozzles on the manifold becoming overgrown.

To clean the burner it must be removed. This does not require dismantling the water-gas unit at all - just disconnect the wires from the spark plug insulators and flame sensor, and then unscrew the union nut on the L-shaped pipe running from the manifold to the gas block (shown in the photo with a red arrow).

First, dust is removed from all parts with a brush. Each internal channel of the burner must also be cleaned of dust - for this, use a plastic brush of the required diameter. Then they get divorced soap solution(you can use a kitchen detergent) and use it to wash the burner both outside and inside, using a brush and a brush. After this, it is washed thoroughly clean water and leave until completely dry.

The collector is also first cleaned from above from dust and deposits with a damp cloth. Assess the condition of the jet nozzles. They cannot be cleaned with hard objects (wire, knitting needles, awls, etc.). It is better to unscrew them (head 8) and blow them with a stream of air, for example, car pump. If the owner is a motorist, then he may have an aerosol in the garage for cleaning the carburetor channels: in this case, such a solution can be very useful.

After cleaning, the collector is dried, collected, and then installed back into the column together with the burner. During installation, be sure to check the condition of the sealing gasket in the union nut.

Preventative work on the heat exchanger

Problems with the heat exchanger are usually expressed in insufficient pressure at the outlet of the column, weak water heating, and suspicious noises during operation of the column. The copper tubes of the heat exchanger can become overgrown with scale over time, especially if the water supply is hard, and this affects both the efficiency of heat transfer and throughput. It happens that a heavily clogged heat exchanger prevents the water unit from working normally - there is not enough pressure, and the entire column becomes inoperative.

In addition, dust mixed with soot, which clogs the space between the heat exchange plates, can interfere with normal water heating.

Removing the heat exchanger is not difficult. The column must be disconnected from the water supply, the remaining water is drained from it - the plug under the water block is unscrewed. Then unscrew the nuts connecting the heat exchanger with the tubes coming from the water block and to the hot water outlet - left and right (the figure shows green arrows). There are gaskets there that will most likely require replacement.

The heat exchanger can be completely freed by unscrewing two screws (blue arrows) and removing the metal plate securing it (yellow arrow).

To clean the heat exchanger from the outside, first rinse it with a strong stream of water and then immerse it in the solution detergent composition with degreasing properties ( suitable for kitchen dish soap). This soaking lasts 15 ÷ 20 minutes at room temperature. Next, you can clean all surfaces using a soft brush. After cleaning, the heat exchanger is rinsed generously cold water. If necessary, the external cleaning procedure can be repeated.

The internal channels of the heat exchanger are cleaned by backwashing with water under high pressure. But if the scale build-up is large, then a more complex procedure will be required, using an acid solution.

For these purposes, there is no need to look for any technical acid - usually citric acid is sufficient. A solution is prepared from a ratio of 100 g of crystalline acid per liter of water at a temperature of about 35 - 40 ° C.

This solution fills the entire cavity of the heat exchanger pipes through one of the pipes. Usually, already during filling, literally after a few seconds, the beginning of a violent reaction with the release of gas bubbles and cloudy liquid is noticeable. The pipes are filled to capacity and left for about a quarter of an hour. After this, the remaining solution is drained off, and the heat exchanger is thoroughly washed.

Sometimes this operation must be repeated to achieve optimal results.

After washing the heat exchanger, it is installed in place. When connecting its pipes with copper pipes, new ones are laid rubber gaskets½ inch. You shouldn’t over-tighten these connections - the gasket can get squashed, protrude like a “skirt” into the channel, and this becomes the cause of unpleasant noise and even a possible point of clogging.

Prices for popular instantaneous water heaters

So, the design of the Neva - 4511 dispenser and the most typical failures or breakdowns were examined. Having understood the principle of operation of the water heater and the interconnection of all components, knowing the method for eliminating the main defects, the owner will be able to understand the probable cause of the malfunction and determine the volume repair work. However, if you are not confident in your own capabilities, it is still better to invite a specialist, since gas equipment does not tolerate an amateurish approach.

Warning!!! This section is intended for specialists who have the appropriate clearance to repair gas equipment! At self-repair During the warranty period, warranty obligations are void!

In this article we will talk about malfunctions of Neva speakers (models 4510, 4511, 4513, 4510M, 4513M, 4610, 5611). Many Chinese speakers, for example, Vecktor or Oasis, and not only Chinese ones, work on the same principle as the Neva, so the solutions below apply to them as well. But please be more careful, the photographs in the article show details specifically for the Neva speakers.

No spark discharge when opening hot water.

Insufficient water pressure in the water supply network (with the tap fully open, less than 2 liters per minute). It is necessary to call the service to eliminate the causes low pressure in the pipeline.
Check the functionality or correct installation of the batteries in the battery compartment (if the polarity is correct). If the elements are discharged, they must be replaced.
Check whether the hot water tap at the inlet in front of the column is open enough. If necessary, open it completely. Or the problem may be insufficient water flow when the water pressure adjustment knob is selected - switch it to the required mode.
It is necessary to check the degree of contamination of the filter in front of the device. If necessary, replace the filter element or clean it.
It is necessary to check the heat exchanger for the presence of scale on its walls. If necessary, remove it and wash it with Solita.
Check the membrane of the water unit.
Perhaps it has stretched out and does not respond to the pressure of water. More than half of the cases of column failures occur due to the unsuitability of the membrane, so you can safely keep this part in stock for such a case. The problem could also be with the microswitch.
This part, like the membrane, is a “consumable” and is constantly subject to mechanical stress. The microswitch tongue often falls off over time, nothing surprising. It happens that the button on which the tongue presses also fails. In this case, it is necessary to ring the microswitch (it should ring when its tongue is depressed). If these elements are serviceable, then check the column control unit itself for serviceability.
Electrical circuit break. It is necessary to find it and eliminate it.
Check that the installation has been carried out correctly. Probably some requirements for it have been violated.

When you open a hot water tap, there is a spark discharge, but the column does not ignite.

The speaker will work for a while and turn off.

The display of the column does not show water temperature readings.

The water doesn't heat up well.

AND So! Let's start with the simplest. (The topic is relevant for everyone geysers).

The weakest point in any gas water heater is. Why? Because in 99% of cases the following happens...

You open the tap, but the dispenser does not start. The first and most likely reason is membrane burst.
You opened the tap, but the column does not produce a flame at full power. The flame is “small” and the water does not heat well. This is because there is not enough gas supplied to the burner. The membrane does not press on the rod with the force necessary to open it completely. t crack in membrane .
You opened the tap, but the column is unstable. It often turns off or turns on only the third or fifth time. The first and most likely reason is Rmembrane stretched over time .

Therefore, before raising a panic, you should always start with replacing the membrane. In general, we recommend simply changing the membrane every two years, without waiting for the troubles described above. What's the matter?

To keep your eyes from wandering, first look directly at the photo of the speaker with the speaker installed inside. Red dots mark screws and nuts that must be unscrewed to separate the water part and then work with it. When your eyes get more or less accustomed, we move on to the first point.

1. Before us is a water-gas unit used in geysers. These nodes have a tiny difference between themselves, but this will not interfere with the matter. First, a couple of points to understand what it is. It consists of two halves: (this part is gray) and (this part is yellow). We take a “plus” (phillips) screwdriver and separate the gray part from the yellow one.

2. The 3rd photo shows how they are fastened together: with the help of two screws, simply squeezing this “cylinder in lubricant” of the water unit from the ends. Let's look at the water part. Photo 4. Here, where the lubricant is, do you see a hole at the end of the cylinder? It is from this hole that the rod comes out, which opens gas access to the column. It is this (the rod) that our membrane pushes when opening the tap.

3. To get to the membrane, you need to carefully unscrew all six screws and the water unit will open in half, like an oyster.

4. If you carefully examine both resulting halves, it is easy to guess that the membrane is this black rubber band lying in the right half. The membrane, as you can see, has an eyelet that fixes its position. Carefully remove the membrane from its containing halves.

5. What other parts are these inside? One of them is, the second is a spring. Our membrane presses on this plate with a rod. The spring returns the rod to its previous position when the tap is closed, gas access stops and the column turns off. If everything inside our oyster is dirty, we take out the plate and take out the spring.

6. Clean and wash everything inside this yellow saucer thoroughly. We replace the membrane with a new one. Don’t forget about the membrane eyelet, which fixes the position correctly. Don't forget about the sides of the membrane. It should, as it were, hug the plate with the stem with its indentation. Then everything will work correctly.

Now we scroll everything in the opposite direction (both the drawings and the screws). Open the tap. And finally, we wash ourselves. Chapter .

Replacing the membrane of the water unit of the gas water heater Neva 4510, Neva 4511, Neva 4513, Neva 4011

AND So! Let's start with the simplest. (The topic is relevant for all geysers).

Also relevant: Analysis of the water unit of the gas water heater Neva 3208

The weakest point in any geyser is the membrane. Why? Because in 99% of cases the following happens...

You open the tap, but the dispenser does not start. The first and most likely reason is that the membrane has burst.
You opened the tap, but the column does not produce a flame at full power. The flame is “small” and the water does not heat well. This is because there is not enough gas supplied to the burner. The membrane does not press on the rod with the force necessary to open it completely. crack inmembrane.
You opened the tap, but the column is unstable. It often turns off or turns on only the third or fifth time. The first and most likely reason isRmembrane stretched over time.

The membrane is the most basic element in the normal startup of the column. Why? When you open the tap, the flow of water creates a vacuum behind the membrane, and the membrane bends. That, in turn, moves the rod, which opens the gas supply to the burner, and it all works purely mechanically, which means it is subject to wear.

Price issue. The cost of a membrane for any geyser starts from 200 rubles. up to 500 rub. We buy a membrane. When we have a brand new membrane in our hands, to replace it we will need: a pair of screwdrivers, 8 mm and 24 mm open-end wrenches, a glass (only for professional plumbers) and 30 minutes of time.

We confirm the relevance of the article for geysers, membranes for which are presented to your attention: VPG (all versions), KGI-56, 3208 (rubber), 4510, 4511, 4513, Proton 1M, Proton 3, Mora, Rossiyanka and Demrad, Termet PG-6, Termet PG-6 (version 2), Proton 1 , Neva-Transit 12E and Orion, Vector JSD 20W and E, Neva-Transit 6E and 10E, Indrabagno (all versions), 3208 (silicone), Electrolux GWH 285 Nano Pro, Mertik Maxitroll (reinforced and non-reinforced), Electrolux GWH 275 and 250, 350, Ariston (eight), Vaillant MAG OE 11, Bosch (WR series all versions).

To keep your eyes from wandering, first look directly at the photo of the NEVA 4511 column with a water-gas unit installed inside. Red dots mark screws and nuts that must be unscrewed to separate the water part and then work with it. When your eyes get more or less accustomed, we move on to the first point.

1. Before us is a water-gas unit used in gas water heaters NEVA 4510, NEVA 4511, NEVA 4513. These units have a tiny difference between themselves, but this will not interfere with the matter. First, a couple of points to understand what it is. It consists of two halves: a gas unit (this part is gray) and a water unit (this part is yellow). We take a “plus” (phillips) screwdriver and separate the gray part from the yellow one.

3. To get to the membrane, you need to carefully unscrew all six screws and the water unit will open in half, like an oyster.

5. What other parts are these inside? One of them is a plate with a rod, the second is a spring. Our membrane presses on this plate with a rod. The spring returns the rod to its previous position when the tap is closed, gas access stops and the column turns off. If everything inside our oyster is dirty, we take out the plate and take out the spring.

Now we scroll everything in the opposite direction (both the drawings and the screws). Open the tap. And finally, we wash ourselves. Section Membranes.

Geyser Neva 4510 - features, specifications, instructions, reviews

The Neva 4510 geyser is equipment capable of operating on both liquefied and natural gas.

This model is well suited for those who do not have a significant budget for the purchase of such equipment. There are also a lot of reviews about it, and almost all of them are laudatory. It is worth finding out whether it is really possible to purchase reliable and durable equipment for such a low price of $150.

productivity is at the level of 10 liters per minute,
power - 17 kW,
the minimum permissible water pressure in the system is 0.3 Bar,
maximum permissible - 6 Bar,
the gas water heater uses automatic ignition,
the resulting efficiency level is 84%,
maximum permissible water pressure - 1 MPa,
nominal natural gas consumption - 1.95 m3/h,
nominal liquefied gas consumption - 0.64 m3/h,
nominal pressure of natural gas 1.3-2.0 kPa,
nominal pressure of liquefied gas - 2.9 kPa,
required chimney pipe diameter: 125 mm.

Thanks to the ability to work even with incoming water pressure of only 0.15 atmospheres, the column will become good choice for a house whose communications have problems with supply.

Advantages of the Neva 4510 geyser

even if the intensity of the incoming water flow changes, the water temperature is maintained in the specified mode,
multi-level security system will provide automatic shutdown from the network in case of failures,
digital display,
the heat exchanger is made of copper, without any admixture of other metals,
good price-quality ratio elevate this model to a leading position in its price segment.
copper built-in heat exchanger,
modern design,
large passage of water,
at correct operation requires calling a technician only once a year, during scheduled maintenance.

The geyser itself has earned varied reviews.

On the one hand, at its price you clearly shouldn’t expect miracles. On the other hand, during its operation, design flaws increasingly appear.

Automation allows the column to turn on only when the tap is opened; the rest of the time it is in “sleep” mode.

This allows you to save energy spent on operating the column.

Judging by the reviews, not all positive sides from older models they were transferred to the Neva 4510 geyser. Despite its design simplicity, the range of adjustments is clearly overestimated.

Disadvantages of the Neva 4510 geyser

The geyser is sensitive to the quality of the supplied water.
It is not uncommon for a situation when, when rusty water is supplied from a water supply system, the channels simply become clogged, which is why it begins to fall operating pressure. Despite the fact that on the scale each tap has about fifteen positions for adjustment, users notice a different range of adjustments for gas injectors.

In fact, information about only three provisions is mentioned.
Often the column heats the water to too high a temperature, which is also typical for storage water heaters.
In the main mode, the column heats water to 45°C. At the same time, automatic protection often serves as a certain disadvantage. For example, when a cold tap is opened at the same time, there are cases of operation and automatic shutdown of the column.
When the tap is turned off more than halfway, the advertised low noise level clearly exceeds the values in the booklet.
Users note such a strong contrast that in this case the speaker drowns out even a conversation in calm tones, and this is a level of 60 dB. The problem lies in the operation of the radiator itself.

The stated copper in the heat exchanger is often valuable for collectors of precious metals.
Due to hard water, scale quickly forms on the heat exchanger. Since copper does not enter into chemical reactions With most cleaning products, it is extremely difficult to clean the heat exchanger from scale. As technologists note, the use of stainless steel heating elements would be more appropriate.
It is also noted that the geyser often operates in different temperature ranges.
Of course, a contrast shower is good for health, but the truth is that not every person enjoys it, especially if it is forced. There are also often complaints about frequent leaks, due to which the gas water heater itself often fails.

Overall, the picture is mixed.

Subtleties of using the NEVA 4510 geyser

On the one hand, there are many laudatory reviews. So laudatory and professionally written that one becomes suspicious of the hired copywriters. On the other hand, there are many negative reviews about the same design flaws. It seems that the buyer is faced with a difficult task: trust the reviews, or buy this model himself and soon join one of the parties.

ANONYMOUS, change the taps!

You also need to use a flexible hose for cold water. My son’s eyeliner even shakes on Elektrolux! In my time soviet speakers They also gave out decibels! They served for 30 years! As for the Neva 4510, the adjustments are quite rough. Difficult to display desired temperature. But it is better to set the water regulator to minimum.

At low water pressure it will supply gas and ignite! This will also be noisy, but in light of the fact that there are water meters, it’s worth setting everything to a minimum temperature.

If you are choosing such a new thing for your home, for example, a geyser, there is no need to get acquainted with the opinions of people who are already using the items that you saw in an online store, or if you chose them in supermarkets for electronics options. The first thing that excites any potential buyer is, of course, the price/quality ratio. Having read reviews of gas columns in Neva and collected them in one article, we are pleased to present our readers.

Firstly, there are no obvious prime numbers ditirambov in general, everyone is at work.

But that's all fine and dandy. First of all, for example, the first thing that worries a woman, of course, is her appearance. What is the Neva column?

Recommendations for correcting errors in the Neva 4511 geyser

Like the heroine of one good old Soviet comedy, I would say: “Continuous, but tasteful.” And, indeed, the column is small, but the dimensions depend on the type of device and its power. Its body is covered with high-quality heat-resistant enamel, which is practically not susceptible to mechanical damage and doesn't suffer high temperatures(the coating does not work over time).

Secondly, an undeniable advantage is that even if there is a possible malfunction, there are no problems with finding spare parts, they can be bought almost everywhere, which cannot be said about capricious copies of imported products.

Thirdly, all gas columns are equipped with an automatic ignition system, which is very convenient to use.

The only downside is that the batteries need to be replaced once every six months.

Fourthly, wall gas in Navia operates almost silently, unlike some domestic and imported products, it does not escape from the process (of course, given the presence of towing).

And finally, as the saying goes: “Add a spoonful of resin to copper soda.” To prevent it, the roundabout needs to be cleaned periodically (once a year), but this is probably not a fault, but rather a consequence of the poor quality of water and gas supplied by our homes to the utilities.

Thus, it simply does not make sense to blame your assistant for this, with a competent approach, so the aggregate will last a very long time.

This is the main feedback from customers on Neva gas columns. As we can see, the columns are quite simple and reliable in operation, and what else is needed for a quiet life.

Instructions for use

Our visitors often ask the question: where can I find instructions for the Niva gas column?

In particular, we have compiled instructions for the most popular models. Use your health!

Geyser Neva 4510

Geyser Neva 4511

Geyser Neva 4513

Nevsky geyser NEVALUX 5014

Neva NEVALUX 5514 gas wheel

Neva geyser NEVALUX 5016

Nevsky geyser NEVALUX 6014

Malfunctions of Neva geysers and ways to eliminate them.

Household geyser Neva-4510 VPG

Household gas water heater Neva-4510, 4513 (instantaneous water heater gas HSV), designed for heating water used for sanitary and household purposes in apartments, cottages, country and country houses.

The device is designed to operate on natural gas in accordance with GOST 5542-87 or liquefied gas in accordance with GOST 20448-90.

Technical characteristics of the geyser Neva-4510, 4513

Rated thermal power, kW - 17

Heating capacity, kW - 15

Efficiency factor, %, not less than — 88

Nominal gas pressure, Pa (mm water column):

— natural — 1274 (130)
— liquefied — 2940 (300)

Nominal gas consumption, m3/hour:

— natural — 1.95
— liquefied — 0.77

Supply water pressure for normal operation of the device, kPa - 30-600

water flow required to ignite the main burner, l/min - 2.5

Water consumption when heating at T=40°C, l/min - 5.3

Water consumption when heating at T=25°C, l/min 8.5

Vacuum in the chimney, Pa (mm water column):

- no less than - 2.0 (0.2)
- no more than - 30.0 (3.0)

Temperature of combustion products, °C, not less than — 110

Ignition of the HSV water heater - Electronic

Overall dimensions, mm:

— height — 648
— width — 356
— depth — 218

Weight of the device, no more, kg - 10.4

Burner nozzle diameter, mm: 1 ± 0.02

Design of the gas water heater Neva-4510, 4513

The components of the device, which explain the principle of its design and require maintenance during operation, are shown in Fig. 1.

Picture 1.

Parts of the geyser Neva-4510, 4513

1- cladding; 2- frame; 3- water-gas block; 4- water regulator handle; 5- gas regulator handle; 6- solenoid valve of the gas block; 7- burner with manifold; 8- heat exchanger; 9- sensor for water overheating; 10 - traction sensor; 11- gas exhaust device (GOU); 12- spark plug for electronic ignition of the burner; 13- ionization flame control sensor; 14- battery compartment; 15- electronic control unit; 16 - digital hot water temperature indicator; 17- observation window; 18 microswitch; 19- inlet pipe of the water block (water supply); 20- inlet pipe of the gas block (gas supply); 21 - water drainage; 22 - drain plug, 23 - hot water temperature sensor

Main components of the gas water heater Neva-4510, 4513

Figure 2.

Water-gas block

A - water regulator; B- gas regulator; 1- membrane; 2- rod; 3- gas valve; 4- Venturi tube; 5- water flow regulator; 6- water regulator rod; 7- gas regulator rod; 8-filter

The device uses an electronic ignition system, powered by two R20 batteries with a voltage of 1.5 V each, located in battery compartment 14.

Connection electronic unit 15 to the battery compartment 14 is carried out using a microswitch 18, which is activated when water flows through the water regulator 1 (see.

Comfort of using the device is achieved by turning on the water heater by simply opening the hot water tap.

Purpose of the components of the gas water heater Neva-4510, 4513:

The water-gas unit (Fig. 2) is a single unit and consists of two regulators: water A and gas B.

The design of the water regulator A ensures gas access to the main burner only in the presence of water flow, while simultaneously ensuring the activation of the solenoid valve 6 (see.

The design of the gas regulator B is part of the gas fittings that regulates the gas supply between the gas network and the burner.

The water-gas block contains a membrane 1, a rod 2, a gas valve 3, a Venturi tube 4, a water flow regulator 5, a water regulator rod 6; gas regulator rod 7 and filter 8.

The water-gas unit is designed to turn on the HPG water heater and provide regulation of water temperature and regulation of water and gas flows.

The burner with manifold 7 (see Fig. 1) is designed to ignite the air-gas mixture supplied to the combustion site.

Heat exchanger 8 (system: combustion products - water) is part of the water fittings in which heat exchange occurs between the hot combustion products of the burner and the water flowing through the heat exchanger pipes.

Water overheating sensor 9 is designed to turn off the device when the water overheats (protecting the heat exchanger from overheating).

Draft sensor 10 is designed to turn off the Neva-4510, 4513 water heater if there is no draft in the chimney.

The gas exhaust device 11 is designed to discharge combustion products into the chimney and serves as the location for installing the sensor 10.

The electronic ignition plug of the burner 12, forming spark discharges for 7 s when the device is turned on (when water is passed through the device), ignites the burner.

Ionization flame control sensor 13 provides control of the burner flame and automatic shutdown of the gas supply to the burner when it goes out.

The hot water temperature sensor 23, which is a thermocouple, outputs a variable EMF to the digital indicator 16, the value of which depends on the degree of heating of the sensor.

Digital indicator 16, allowing you to control and show the heating temperature of water flowing from the tap.

Figure 4. Connection diagram

BUE - electronic control unit; IC - hot water temperature indicator; TP1 – hot water temperature sensor; MK1 - microswitch; K1 – water overheating sensor, K2 – draft sensor; CE - electromagnetic valve of the gas block; P1-spark plug for electronic ignition of the burner; D1 - ionization flame control sensor; HV - high voltage wire; S – ionization sensor wire; B - batteries 2x1.5 V; X1, X2, X3 – connectors.

Wire symbols: b – white; g – yellow; k - red; h - black.

__________________________________________________________________________

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The presence of such an element as a heat exchanger for the Neva gas wheel in the design can be considered an advantage, because it is resistant to corrosion, and in case of failure, new equipment is not required, since it is easy to replace. In addition to all the equipment from this manufacturer, it is available at very favorable price and is distinguished by its quality.

sphere
A little about the company
Model overview
All the advantages and disadvantages
Expert advice

More about products

Heating equipment of this brand is economical, compact in size, easy to use and affordable.

Due to a combination of these factors, columns are on demand. This option is especially recommended for small families.

Thanks to a number of functions, the device is no worse than some foreign analogues, but in some cases thanks to such an element, since the Neva heat exchanger, made of copper, works great.

Where is this type of product used?

The operating principle of this type of device is largely based on electronic ignition.

In this case, the main burner ignites the sparks created by the electrode. The design also includes a burner control unit and water, but the steering is done manually, which is mechanical. For convenience, the front panel has a display showing the actual water temperature.

Do-it-yourself repair of the Neva 4511 gas cabin

To save gas, an automatic burner shutdown function is provided.

Company development

The factory manufacturer of such equipment is Gaspararat LLC. To date, the duration of this organization is about 60 years (the year of its foundation is 1945). In ancient times, the main activity of the company was the production of panels for households and since 1956

We expanded our product range and began launching water heating equipment.

The latest models (Neva Lux 5016 and Neva Lux 5013) are marked with European certificates. Due to the compactness of the equipment and low performance, it is recommended to use it in private homes or huts where the demand for hot water is low (usually small families).

The main units of this type of technology are the heat exchanger for the Neva gas column and the burner. All elements are installed in an enamel casing.

Review of models and price category

Model 4511

There are enough options to make the right choice based on certain conditions for the future operation of the equipment. The main models are Neva Lux 5514, 5111, 4510M, 4511, 5611, 4610, 6011, 6014.

Depending on the type of device, you can choose between electric or piezo jet.

The last of these types is the 5111. Thermal power Such equipment corresponds to 21 kW, water consumption is 11 l / min and costs about 8,200 rubles.

Another option is the compact column 4511, the price of which is slightly lower (7,900 rubles).

Thermal output is no higher than the previously reviewed model, exactly the same water consumption (11 l / min.), However, the design allows electric ignition. The burning intensity of the flame and the pressure of the water pressure can be independently controlled.

The capacity of this type of equipment depends on the size of the heat exchanger used for the Neva column.

For convenience, the manufacturer produces almost all of its models in several shades. The most common are white and silver.

Advantages and disadvantages of equipment

The properties and capabilities of such water heating equipment are sufficient to provide a home or the required amount of hot water. The main advantages are as follows:

Compact size, which saves space in small rooms in the country;
Gas saving, which facilitates the operation of the automatic burner;
Saving water due to low consumption under certain conditions, this factor can be explained by disadvantages, but if the user has purchased a device with a low load, then the manufacturer's capacity of this type of equipment is sufficient;
For example, ease of operation and repair is the main malfunction usually associated with an element such as a heat exchanger for a Neva gas column, while it is enough to replace it and the equipment will work longer;
Spare parts for repair and maintenance;
Low cost;
The heat exchanger material is copper, which eliminates the possibility of corrosion.

But, like any other technique, the column has signs and disadvantages.

For example, rapid wear of parts with very active work. The heat exchanger ends up accumulating lime (or more simply). This is a common problem with this method. Considering the Neva geysers, the assessments are partly negative, since users are dissatisfied with the pressure force and the corresponding degree of water heating.

But in this case, the buyer should be reminded that the purpose of such equipment is a private home or premises, as well as small water supply needs.

This means that you do not expect high functionality from your device.

Mounting functions

Before installation, you must select the location where the water heating equipment is located. Due to the fact that gas burns during operation, it is prohibited to install the assembly in residential areas. It is advisable to have this type of equipment in a kitchen or non-violent environment. Its volume must be at least 8 cubic meters. m.

Watch the video and compare the model with your colleagues:

To fully operate the device, you need to provide ventilation.

To do this, regular ventilation of the room by opening a window or window is sufficient. The device is mounted on a fire-resistant or solid fire made of brick or concrete.

When connected to a chimney, the vacuum level should be between 1.96 and 29.4 Pa. If the space is small and the distance from the walls to the side surfaces of the device is less than 250 mm, it is necessary to provide additional insulation of the walls.

Before purchasing a Neva 4511 geyser, you should consider its location based on the previously discussed recommendations.

To use the device, you must install the batteries in a special compartment. Before starting, closing elements on gas and water pipes open directly in front of the boiler.

Using the control buttons, the minimum gas and water consumption is set. The hot water is then activated, which will cause sincere releases to appear. And if the flow rate is less than 2.5 l/min, the burner will not light up.

If the equipment is turned on for the first time or has not been operated for a long time, it takes time to remove the air from the pipes.

In this case, the steps must be taken in stages, including briefly pressing the hot water (maximum 7 s - the average burner ignition time) and then closing it. Repeat these manipulations several times until the spark ignites the burner.

Thus, the quality of water heating equipment depends not only on the manufacturer and assembly, but also on how the device was correctly selected to operate under certain conditions.

Firstly, this will allow you to use it more efficiently, and secondly, it will not disappoint due to the incompatibility of the device's ability with the conditions for which it was purchased.

I use a Neva 4510 column.

The hot water supply tap is located 15 m from the device. When adjusting the temperature of the supplied water, a number of problems arise. If the flow rate decreases, the temperature does not increase immediately. Therefore, it is very difficult to configure exactly what is required, the inertia is too high.

If diluted with cold water, overheating occurs in the unit. Moreover, if you open the tap in the kitchen, which is located next to the appliance, there are no such problems. So I’m thinking, maybe install a duplicate water temperature indicator in the bathroom? Tell me how to implement this more competently?

All modern gas instantaneous water heaters are equipped with this option. Moreover, you can even set the temperature from a remote control panel.

And you can dilute water on them; they do not depend on ducts.

geyser Neva 4510 DIY repair

You can also extend the temperature sensor several meters away using shielded twisted pair cable.

A Neva 4511 gas water heater is connected. I wanted to make a remote temperature sensor for it. And for this I bought an electronic indoor-outdoor thermometer with a clock.

And there is a remote temperature sensor packed in a metal case. I thought that the wiring from the sensors could be extended. And install the sensor itself on the hot water outlet pipe. But here's what bothers me. Sensor polling time is 16 seconds. I measured the temperature of this remote sensor and watched how long it took for the readings to change. If it is located in such a way that it shows the temperature indoors or outdoors, then there are no problems.

And if it is mounted in the device, then the pause is 2 seconds. Tell me, who knows why this happens? Are there signs with a remote sensor, or weather stations that are less inertial? For example, I need 40 degrees, I set it to 42 on the device.

The device actually heats the water to the set value. And in the bathroom, if you add a little cold water, the temperature will change in a second. And if you wait a minute, the water will already heat up to 50 degrees Celsius, which makes it necessary to add even more cold water. Although it is more common that it is necessary to increase the temperature on the water heater by reducing the flow rate.

As you described, it all depends on the ratio of the HDS column and the loop with an open screen for dilution.

Mechanical models have an overestimated GDS, this is a real problem. If you dilute the water, it begins to flow where there is less resistance. That is, if the tap is located next to the device, then everything works as it should. You add cold water, and the flow decreases, accordingly the temperature
increases, accordingly it is necessary to dilute more. And so on until the unit overheats and turns off. But if the screen is located at a considerable distance from the device, then you can dilute it a little.

In modern good models, there is temperature stabilization to eliminate this problem. Their GDS is much lower, since there are no narrowings anywhere in the path of water movement.

My gas water heater Neva 4513 broke down.

Sometimes it doesn't turn on. And sometimes it works fine. And sometimes it happens that there is simply no spark. The problem appeared about a month ago, when I blocked the vents in the underground. Although before that, there were no problems for 7 years. The room where the device is installed small size. Very tight doors. There is a plumbing hatch in the window. After the column is turned off, it may light up, but there is no spark.

I tried to clean the contacts and inserted a new battery. Nothing helped. Relatives are already demanding that a new device be installed. Is there any way I can repair this?

Firstly, the device has been in use for quite a long time, it needs to be cleaned.

It is also important that the wires are not damaged, so that there is good contact everywhere. And, of course, for the water heater to operate, air supply is necessary.

We use the Neva 4610 dispenser. Despite the fact that it is completely new, it has already broken down. It turns off during operation. What could it be? I checked the gas and water pressure, everything is fine.

You may have problems with your hood.

To fix this problem, you need to open the ventilation hole and put a piece of paper there. If it sticks to the hole, then there is traction. You can also check its presence using a mirror. Make sure that the exhaust elbow where it goes into the wall is sealed.

Check the installation of the draft sensor. The sensor responsible for water overheating may also stop working.

Operating instructions for models Neva 4510, 4511, 4513, 4610

Operating rules

When operating gas water heaters, it is prohibited:

Self-installation and commissioning.
2. Use the device by children and persons who do not know the operating instructions.
3. Turn on the device if there is no draft in the ventilation duct.
4. Make any changes to the design of the device.
5. Leave the water heater operating without supervision.
6.

If there is a risk that the temperature in the apartment will drop below 0 degrees, you need to remove the water from the device.
7. Set the water heating temperature higher than recommended. This may cause additional noise during operation and will also increase the formation of scale in the heat exchanger.

8. To prevent scale formation, it is forbidden to dilute hot water with cold water.
9. If the device is operating correctly, there should be no foreign odors. If there is a smell of gas or burning in the room, you must immediately turn off the gas valve and open all windows.

After this you need to contact gas service. For safety reasons, it is prohibited to turn electrical appliances on and off and light a fire. This could cause an explosion.
10. For correct operation of the device, it is important that Maintenance was carried out at least once every 12 months. It is also recommended to remove dust and soot generated inside the unit. It is necessary to periodically check the tightness of the connections and flush the heat exchanger using special solutions recommended by the factory.

Geysers Neva 4510 M, 4511, 4513, 4610 operate on D, RL20 batteries.

The problem only occurs in models that have an automatic protection system built in. It runs on batteries. Moreover, on such devices the igniter must operate continuously, since it ensures ignition main burner. But when hot water is required, ignition occurs as a result of ignition of the air-fuel mixture.

First of all, for this, the igniter heats the thermocouple. And moves in the direction of the burner. If the igniter goes out, the column turns off the gas supply behind it for safety reasons. The device is protected by a solenoid valve, a thermocouple and a fuse.

You can make sure that the automation is faulty by seeing that after stopping
holding the knob, adjusting the gas, the igniter does not light. Repairing this system requires special knowledge, so it is recommended to contact a service technician.

Mechanism of operation of thermal fuse, thermocouple and valve

A thermocouple is an alloy of conductors made from a variety of metals. The principles of its operation lie in the Seebeck effect. It generates an EMF of 30 mV during the heating process.

The thermocouple is designed to feed the solenoid valve. Its design is so simple that breakdowns are very rare. The only thing that is susceptible to defects is the central conductor protruding beyond the thermocouple.

It is not secured by anything, and although it is insulated, this insulation can be damaged. This is why sometimes there is a short circuit to the speaker body, as a result of which the speaker goes out. If the contact is broken in the places where the thermocouple is attached to its sockets, you need to buy and install a new thermocouple, since it is impossible to simply solder and restore the contacts.

The solenoid valve of a gas device is a power coil made of insulated copper wire.

The connection contains a metal rod connected to a valve that provides shutoff. When the thermocouple heats up to the required temperature, it begins to produce electricity. And the resulting magnetic field sets the coil rod in motion, which ensures the valve operates. After this, gas supply begins. If combustion does not occur and the thermocouple has cooled, it returns to its original position, as the spring presses on it. Gas supply has been stopped.

This simple mechanism ensures the safe operation of gas water heaters Neva 4510 M, 4511, 4513, 4610. Operation is easy to check.

A battery with a voltage of 1.5 Volts and a supply of 100 milliamps is connected to the coil winding. For example, you can take an AA battery with a resistance of 10 ohms. When the power supply is connected, the wick should burn, and after disconnecting it, the fire should go out.

If everything works out, then the valve is working normally and the thermocouple is broken.

The thermal fuse is bimetallic strip, the main function of which is to break the power contact of the solenoid valve if the temperature reaches 90 degrees Celsius. If you are sure that the room fresh air enough for the flame to burn, but the column still turns off, you need to check the thermal fuse.

If the window is closed and the hood is running, the appliance may overheat. Good traction will not help in this case, since there is no supply of fresh air. In this situation, the thermal fuse will ensure that the gas is turned off so that the device does not overheat and break down. In order to check whether this is really the reason, you need to disconnect the fuse and short the wires together.

If after this manipulation the column begins to work, then you need to install a new thermal fuse.

What could be the reasons for the lack of ignition in models Neva 4510 M, 4511, 4513, 4610

Lack of ignition of the Neva gas water heater is one of the most common problems. When you open the tap, the device does not start heating water. There may be several reasons for this.

1. Water arrives at a pressure lower than required according to the instructions.

That is, the sensor cannot convince the water flow. The sensor works on the principle of changing the shape of the membrane under the influence of flow force. In a gas water heater, this problem is solved using a regulator that can control the flow of liquid.
2. Insufficient supply of fresh air to the room.

If in the room where the device is installed there is no open window, there is no air access from the street, then it begins to overheat. Triggered defense mechanism Excessive heating causes gas blockage. If the air supply is provided within 15 minutes, the device can be started and it will begin to operate in standard mode.

Error E1

This error appears in case of a problem with ignition.

This problem occurs in two cases. No gas supply. To eliminate this, you need to make sure that the gas valve is open and there is gas in the line. Problem with the chimney system. The gas pipe may be too long. You need to try to ignite the unit again.

How to find out the reason for the lack of spark

1) The most popular reason for this problem is dead batteries. It is also possible that they are installed with incorrect polarity.
2) Contacts have oxidized.

To fix the problem you need to clean them.
3) No traction. The chimney is clogged. in this case, the column’s protective systems are activated and the gas supply is stopped. Checking for traction is very easy. To do this, you need to take out a burning match, or simply put your palm on the chimney. The flame should deflect towards the exhaust gas. You can feel the movement of air with your hand. You can also attach a leaf to one of the ventilation windows. If it sticks, there is traction.

If there is no draft, it is necessary to clean the ventilation into the system.
4) A leak has developed in any of the system connections. There must be a tap on the pipe that supplies the radiator of the gas device with water.

There should also be a tap on the gas supply pipe. All pipes are connected using union nuts, sealing is ensured by the presence of gaskets. During operation, gaskets tend to lose their elasticity and become deformed, which leads to a loss of tightness.

It is important to periodically check the gaskets and change them if necessary. If the water pressure is low, the water filter must be checked and cleaned.

Worn membrane, which is located in the water block. In order to access it, it is important to remove the cover from the device. After examining the membrane, you need to make sure that it is not stretched, deformed, or damaged.

If defects are found, you need to buy and install a new one.

There is a spark, but the Neva 4510 M, 4511, 4513, 4610 column does not work

Scale may form on the heat exchanger tube. In this case, heat exchange is disrupted and the water does not heat up to the required temperature. The flow of water is also hampered and the pressure decreases. All this increases gas consumption. To prevent this problem from arising, it is recommended to periodically flush the heat exchanger to remove scale.

For this purpose, special solutions are used, sold in stores. If it is not possible to obtain these components, you can use a solution citric acid or vinegar.

To wash the heat exchanger, soak it 1/3 full in a tank of water. Wherein inner tube The heat exchanger is filling warm solution acids. Leave until completely cool.

The gas burner is clogged. To clean it, you must call a service technician. You can independently remove soot from the inner surface of the jets using an iron brush. It is important to make sure that the tightness of the connection is not broken.

The batteries are dead. Needs replacement. The water filter located at the inlet of the system or in the faucet mixer is dirty. It needs to be cleaned or replaced.

Temperature adjustment in the Neva 4513 M model occurs as follows:

The handle of the device turns counterclockwise, this leads to an increase in the water temperature. And vice versa accordingly. It is permissible to dilute the water in the mixer by adding cold water.

The flow of water passing through the tap is regulated by a water tap.

If water flow increases, the temperature correspondingly drops, and vice versa.

Shutdown methods

To turn off the device, you must turn off all hot water taps. To ensure safety, it is necessary to visually check that the flame has gone out. Turning off at night follows a slightly different principle.

To do this you need to do the following:

— Close the hot water supply valve.
— Close the valve that supplies gas to the device.
— Close the cold water supply tap.

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